Mitsubishi Shogun - Brake problem - ShogunOwner

I have just replaced a metal brake pipe in the rear system of my Shogun. I have bled both of the rear wheels and the bleed valve on top of the rear brake limiting valve.

The problem now is that when the engine is not running the pedal feels firm but with the engine running the pedal feels firm but if I continue to press on it then it slowly sinks about half an inch.

I have failed to find any leaks either on the replaced pipe or the three bleed valves and the level of fluid in the resevoir is not falling.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what may be wrong here please.

Mitsubishi Shogun - Brake problem - Peter.N.

Still sounds like air in the system, alternatively the master cylinder might be failing.

Mitsubishi Shogun - Brake problem - ShogunOwner

Still sounds like air in the system, alternatively the master cylinder might be failing.

I'm taking a gamble and I've ordered a new master cylinder.

Mitsubishi Shogun - Brake problem - hardway

Linked diagonally if I recall so bleed both fronts.

Mitsubishi Shogun - Brake problem - madf

Linked diagonally if I recall so bleed both fronts.

+1

Mitsubishi Shogun - Brake problem - ShogunOwner

Linked diagonally if I recall so bleed both fronts.

NO, split is definitely front to back. Rear brake limiting valve wouldn't work otherwise and there's only one pipe going to the back axle where it splits to each wheel.

Mitsubishi Shogun - Brake problem - bathtub tom
The problem now is that when the engine is not running the pedal feels firm but with the engine running the pedal feels firm but if I continue to press on it then it slowly sinks about half an inch.

Didn't it do that before you replaced the pipe? Seems normal to me.

It's easy to apply much more pressure to the brake pedal when stationary than you would when moving.

Mitsubishi Shogun - Brake problem - hardway

Now most of my experience is with the L200's,

And I was going to suggest brake pipe clamps on the flexi pipes to eliminate or more accurately pinpoint just where the fault lies.

BUT if I'm right and the braking system is the same as the L200's then check all the vacuum pipes under the bonnet,

and the solenoids they run to.

If I recall right there's a number of small bore vac pipes the run fron the vac pump in branches,

round the back of the head to the booster.

A simple test is start it,pump the brakes,kill it then pump the pedal several times to exhaust the boost res,

then while holding the pedal hard down start it up.

If the boost vac and servo are operting right the pedal "should" dip to the floor under your foot.

Try that then clamp of the three flexi pipes one by on while re testing,

if you find a pedal improvement you've narrowed down where the fault is.

Mitsubishi Shogun - Brake problem - ShogunOwner

No it's never been like that. I may have given the wrong impression. I know that if you press on the pedal and it feels hard and then if you start the engine the pedal goes down. That is not what is happening here. If I start the engine and then press on the pedal it feels hard initially and then sinks very slowly further down. Best theory I've heaard so far is that when the rear circuit failed then the piston would travel much further down the master cylinder than it normally does. The wall of the piston in this area may be corroded or have a lip on it. This could damage the seal and allow fluid to pass. No fluid would leak out of the system but pedal would sink. based on this theory I've ordered a new master cylinder and crossed my fingers.

Mitsubishi Shogun - Brake problem - hardway

Could be,

But if I recall 2 front to rear rigids to 2 rear flexi pipes.

Brake hose clamps are pretty cheap,

clamp both flexies and recheck.

If the pedal has no creep you've isolated the fault to the rear brakes.

Or I had one in once with a very similar symptom,

I made up enough short rigid pipes with bleed nipples on the ends and connected them to the outputs of the master and bled the master.

So the brake master pumped no fluid,

pedal was rock solid.

A fair test compared to stripping out the master and dissasembling it.

Which to be honest I also did,

Well It seemed daft not too,

at that point it was only held on by 2 13mm nuts.

Striped and inspected and internals were fine.

Try the pipe clamp test.

Mitsubishi Shogun - Brake problem - hardway

Sorry,

Additional,

Your symptoms could be explained by a faulty rear cylinder/s,

a faulty compensator or a faulty flexi hose.

Or air,

The routing of the pipe/ABS would mean pressure or vacuum bleeding would be my choice.

Pipe clamps will show up as a different feel to the pedal when they block the flow of fluid.