Many older cars only had a brake bleed nipple on one rear wheel. A pipe crossed over from one side to the other meaning that you bled both of the rear brakes from just the one side. If you look at the wheel cylinder they will have 2 threads, one for the pipe and one normally for the nipple. On one side there wil be a pipe in and out. Hope that makes sense.

I suppose IF it makes bleeding less efficient I could loosen a brake pipe, but for now I'll just bleed from the one nipple

It doesn't make bleeding less efficient, it works fine. Loosening a brake pipe will probably allow air in and make the brakes very soft.

First I have to get the wheel off. VERY solid wheel nuts, How come I never have a scaffolding pole about me when I need one?

Wheel nuts should be torqued up to the manufacturers figure. Any more and you will damage and weaken the fastners. Most I have ever seen is about 80 lbs/ft and it is quite easy to undo a fastner at that figure with a regulat ratchet wrench. If you need a scaffold pole a complete idiot has tightened them.

Using PTFE tape on wheel studs is not such a good idea.

Can't get Copaslip here.

I've used aluminium foil and a rub with an old tyre weight as alternative improvisations(combined with grease) in the past, but didn't have either handy.at the time.

I've used PTFE on other wheels but havn't had this one off before.

Don't think I've ever used a torque wrench on a wheel nut, Be mildly interesting to try it sometime, and find out how far out I've been, unless they specify the torque dry (as they often do with fastners), which I'm not likely to follow.

I've never seen a satisfactory resolution of the dry/lube controversy with respect to torque settings, Doing it dry and recording the angular movement, then lubing, might be best, but it doesn't seem to be necessary for wheel nuts.

They don't seem to come loose, and I havn't broken any studs yet,Touch wood.