It would be helpful if the responder read ALL the previous posts-getting told to try things you have already tried and excluded would get up anybody's nose!
Very true. But it would also help the OP if he were to have an understanding of how engines work. Unfortunately too many people these days only think they know. Many are much too reliant on computer type diagnostics without having the root knowledge of what they're being told and what individual components actually do, and how the control module interprets information. This is why people blame this sensor, that switch, this component. And they are very often wrong. Fundamentally the internal combustion engine is no different from what they've always been. They have always been and still are suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Internet forums can just as easily lead people up the garden path as much as they can be useful.
I am still young and learn cars in my own time as a hobby.
I have a wide understanding of techonology and have actually built my career around it but do not go to fourms to talk down to people about it or insinuate they are in some what worse then me because they do not understand it.
As i learn this as a hobby I do not know absolutely everything about engines and how they work you are correct and i especially do not know much about diesel cars being this is the first one I have ever owned or worked on. May i mention no one asked you to comment and your need to comment to just try and talk down to anyone who does not have a much of a history in mechanics as you is not really the best way to be spending your time.
Now as the world develops so does cars so modern day engines use the advanced technology accordingly and just like anything this technology can fail and result in sensor issues and faults. So almost any fault on a modern day car can be caused by a faulty sensor or component.
Now talking about my car as i suggested I will be taking input from my peers and using their information to make a informed decision on what to try next. I know my car has good compression, I know my car is receiving some sort of fuel to the engine even if it is to only 3 cylinders, I know my car is receiving air and i know the exhaust is unrestricted and working. Now my diagnostic have all been made without a code reader or using any computer based diagnostic. What I am trying to diagnose is why it isn't reciving enough fuel, I diagnosed this to a faulty injector before even posting to this chat.. Next was why it wouldn't start so that resulted in rechecking all above i have mentioned and again i have now diagnosed this to air, the EGR was faulty and needed replacing and a vacumm leak on the inlet manifold sealing. So as much as your comment is appreciated it is not needed and please take your negativity else where.
Due to the plain hostility of this fourm i will be withdrawing from making any more comments on this thread and will not be dissapointed if it is closed.
Believe it or not my comments were intended to help you, not criticise you for any lack of knowledge you may have or otherwise. I am merely pointing out that essentially you problem will fall into the four categories I mention, as will any other problem with any engine. You should be assured that diagnosing faults on car engines isn't actually as hard as it seems. You just need to have the right understanding and go about it the right way.
Far too many technicians both professional and DIY go for the most complicated first, completely ignoring or overlooking the simple things which often are the cause. If you suspect a faulty injector you could have them tested by a diesel specialist. The most likely reason why one or more injectors may be faulty is a worn nozzle. But this would give rise to excessive exhaust smoke due to inefficient combustion, or excessive diesel knock. Diesel fuel does not vaporise at low temperatures. The compressed air must get to around 500°C, and the fuel needs to be injected in a high pressure fine spray to self ignite. Use a scantool to check fuel rail pressure. This needs to reach around 10,000KPa (100bar or 1,470psi) for the engine to even start. At high engine speeds the FRP should get well over 100,000KPa. If yours doesn't then suspect worn injectors or a faulty pressure relief valve.
Diesel engines have no throttle and therefore no manifold vacuum, so a leak on the inlet manifold will make no difference to the engine running. A blocked manifold however will make a big difference, and this is very likely on a car having done this mileage.
Read again the four reasons why a diesel engine won't run. As I said, your problem will be one of them. Make sure you eliminate each one in turn and you'll find your problem.
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