2006 honda accord tourer - rear caliper

Honest John Back Room » Technical matters
View Threaded
Mon 13 Mar 2017 13:36
2006 honda accord tourer - rear caliper - simon peter graham

hi, i have a 2006 accord tourer 2.0 i-vtec and ive just had the rear pads done and found out the caliper piston has seized on n/s/r. ive sourced a few refurbished ones but there from either the 2.4 or the 2.2 cdti, will this caliper be compatible with mine? or would it be better if i got a caliper repair kit with seals,piston etc

Reply | Report as offensive | Link
Mon 13 Mar 2017 14:59
2006 honda accord tourer - rear caliper - Railroad.

Why not try working the piston in and out to free it up? Get an assistant to press the brake pedal several times while you watch the piston come out, but take care that it doesn't come all the way out. Then carefully peel back the protective rubber cover and give it a good spray with penetrating oil. Ease it back in with a pair of water pump pliers or suitable lever. Do this a few times until the piston moves more easily. Bleed the brakes to change the brake fluid when it's free.

Edited by Railroad. on 13/03/2017 at 15:01

Reply | Report as offensive | Link
Mon 13 Mar 2017 17:04
2006 honda accord tourer - rear caliper - gordonbennet

You won't know whether the piston will still be good enough to take a seal kit till you press it out, as described above, and you won't know how bad the piston bore is till you get the pistonfully out and examine said bore, even then there is no guarantee that you won't have a leaking seal after you've gone to all the trouble of fitting a new piston, seal, dust cover and circlip and still end up buying a refurb anyway..

Difference of opinion with Railroad, i would not introduce any type of penetrating or other oil under the piston dust cover, i agree with the method described but i would only use the correct brake grease (which won't attack rubber) applied with a cotton bud or touch up type paint brush around the piston before pushing it back in, only my opinion mind, and not wishing to cause an argument.

Don't forget to lube up the rest of the caliper sliders and pistons because they'll be suffereing from the same lack of servicing as the seized one.

Reply | Report as offensive | Link
Mon 13 Mar 2017 18:09
2006 honda accord tourer - rear caliper - simon peter graham

do you think a caliper repair kit will do it? in those kits you get a new piston and seal kits and bleed nipple,and il change the brake fluid too, the garage tried the bleeding and pressing the piston but wasnt returning even with the clamp press,il get he full repair kit and see, tho if im honest when i drove home from the garage it didnt pull or feel different and they didnt tke the handbrake off when doing the rear pads

Reply | Report as offensive | Link
Mon 13 Mar 2017 19:27
2006 honda accord tourer - rear caliper - hardway

These callipers like most h/brake types rely on an internal to the piston screw/ratchet device.

Bascally the ratchet moves small increments when the h/brake is applied to move the piston height out to compensate for pad wear.

'cours this only works if the correct cable adjustment is done.

the little lever on the calliper MUST be able to move it's whole travel.

Which just doesn't happen if some monkey has tightened up the h/brake cable.

And from your point of view check your garage as these pistons UNSCREW!

not just pump out on the brake.

I've done any number of these,

Honda's seem prone to this.

Worst ones come off and go in the vice and a combination of working the small quadrent lever and unscrewing the piston anticlock uually removes the piston.

What scraps these is if the small lever will not move it's full travel range.

Piston is usually just gummed up and removing it and the seal and cleaning everything except the "rubber" seal with brake cleaner followed by rebuilding using RED RUBBER GREASE

usually results in a functioning calliper.

Then I manually adjust up the calliper piston by working the small lever back and forward until pads touch disk.

Then refit the cables and adjust free play to 4-6 clicks.

Miss adjustment of the h/brake free play is the major reason for failure of the callipers.

It will give you an MOT this year but overtightening the h/brake free play so the calliper small lever doesen't move back to rest/off position will just mean two new callipers next year.

Reply | Report as offensive | Link
Tue 14 Mar 2017 19:14
2006 honda accord tourer - rear caliper - focussed

Accords of 2006 model year have rear parking drum brakes mechanically operated.

www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_...r

Reply | Report as offensive | Link
Tue 14 Mar 2017 19:28
2006 honda accord tourer - rear caliper - gordonbennet

Accords of 2006 model year have rear parking drum brakes mechanically operated.

www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_...r

Thats very handy to know Focussed, i would have assumed that it would have been fitted with the same self adjusting caliper parking brake design as the similarly engined Civic, the drum inside disc you've kindly provided the link there for is IMHO a far better design all round, less likely to give trouble and simple to maintain for a long life, fortunately all three of our vehicles are so fitted and they do not give any trouble save normal wear and tear.

Reply | Report as offensive | Link
Wed 15 Mar 2017 21:36
2006 honda accord tourer - rear caliper - focussed

I've had an 07 reg Civic, and now got a 15 reg Accord tourer.

When working on the Civic brakes and replacing the rear pads I followed the procedure in the Honda workshop manual and had no problem with the handbrake system.

As I remember, it was to wind the piston back in, replace pads, and pump the footbrake to hard pedal before trying the handbrake. If you do it the other way round the handbrake auto adjust system doesn't work properly.

Reply | Report as offensive | Link
Tue 14 Mar 2017 20:33
2006 honda accord tourer - rear caliper - liammcl

Why not try working the piston in and out to free it up? Get an assistant to press the brake pedal several times while you watch the piston come out, but take care that it doesn't come all the way out. Then carefully peel back the protective rubber cover and give it a good spray with penetrating oil. Ease it back in with a pair of water pump pliers or suitable lever. Do this a few times until the piston moves more easily. Bleed the brakes to change the brake fluid when it's free.

+1 for this.
Mine was frozen solid, but after doing this all was good again.
A warning tho' whether it was the penetration oil, or wd40, the rubber dust protection covers disintegrated. (maybe they were on the way already)
(20 year old car)

The dust covers were not a problem, as it went thru the mot, and some reckon they are more hassle then they are worth.

Be wary of pushing with silly amounts of pressure (I used a v. long screwdriver)
and it snapped my brake disc (I had nothing to lose , as it was going to be a new caliper etc)
Admitedly the discs are very thin, and worn, on mine
so maybe they too were on the way out.
not a biggie, as replacemen discs on mine were £10

Anyways, take it easy , and get some red grease (£2) and bobs your uncle :)
Liam

Edited by liammcl on 14/03/2017 at 20:37

Reply | Report as offensive | Link