Renault Clio II (2001 - 2007) - 01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelerating from idle  
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelerating from idle - bluebird
I have owned this car from new and have only a few minor problems until about 15 months ago. The car has only done 23000 miles, 1600 miles in the last 2 years. My problem is the engine which cuts out whilst accelarating from idle. The fault is intermittent and does not normally occur from cold and will need 4 or 5 miles before stalling is likely to happen. It does not happen when travelling above about 15mph. It can go for days with no problem at all, then it could cut out 3 or 4 times in ten minutes.

It mostly occurs when pulling away from idle at junctions, roundabouts etc. after 2 or 3 metres the engine shuts down for half a second or so with all the ignition lights showing on the dash, then fires up again and then it runs as normal until possibly it does it at the next stopping point. I am only doing 5-10 mph when it happens. It also ocurs when stopping and reversing slowly (say into a parking bay). This time because the travel is so slow it cuts out but does not fire up again. Attempts to start the engine end in either the engine turning over for 1 or 2 seconds not firing then the starter motor stops. Trying to start the car again either goes through the same again, or the starter motor will not turn at all. I have been 5 or 6 minutes trying to restart the car. Then recently it stopped again whilst reversing into a parking bay on the road side. I was now blocking the traffic so had to eventually push the car further down the road. I then tried to start it again and it fired up first time.

I took the car to a Renault dealer last year with the fault. They did their diagnostic checks, removed and cleaned the throttle body fitted new gaskets and rectified an air leak - £157.00. It appeared to be okay but the problem soon returned. With the reversing problem I took it back to the dealer. They had it for two days and although they witnessed the fault on a test drive and the reversing fault occured whislt with them the end result was that they could not indentify the cause, only suggesting it could be a wiring fault in the loom. I do not buy that because it only happens at low speed. I did see another forum site where there was mention of a accelarator pedal sensor being a problem.

Is there anyone out there who could help identify the fault with the clio. Sorry for the length of this piece but I tried to give as much info as possible.

Edited by Dynamic Dave on 19/02/2008 at 20:28

Tags: technical issues starting engine problem

01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - Screwloose
bluebird

These sorts of faults bedevil the Clio II - the dealers fit dozens of new engine looms every week. They literally rot away.

It sounds as though there may be corrosion of the ignition switch feed fuse in the underbonnet box; or a break in a ignition switch feed wire or a main earth. You've actually got two related problems; first it cuts, then it won't crank over.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - elekie&a/c doctor
Does this model have the steel security cage that sits over engine Ecu at rear of engine.?The type that comes loose and munches its way thro the engine wiring harness and usually shorts out the sensor signals.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - Screwloose
Doc

Yes. [Can't tie in the non-crank tho?]
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - bluebird
Does this model have the steel security cage that sits over engine Ecu at rear
of engine.?The type that comes loose and munches its way thro the engine wiring harness
and usually shorts out the sensor signals.

Not sure. I will check in the morning
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - bluebird
Thanks Screwloose

I will check these two items tomorrow, but why do you think possible corrosion of the ignition switch feed fuse would only cause problems at low revs. Would it not also occur therefore at higher revs or is the electrical power higher at higher revs to overcome an intermittent resistance caused by corrosion?
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - elekie&a/c doctor
Yes,I agree.Cannot see the relation to no crank.Probably an unrelated fault of the crank signal wire hanging off the starter! I'm sure we have all been there before with Renault wiring.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - Screwloose
bluebird

The wiring loom drops down from the fusebox and is bolted to the gearbox. As you pull away, the gearbox [and engine] move on their rubber mountings and flex the wiring.

Corroded connexions [or rotted wiring] are very sensitive to tiny movements; they can be enough to make or break poor electrical contact. Slight variation from heating up can cause similar effects.

The loose steel crash box over the ECU that's bolted to the back of the engine [just about the most imbecilic place you could put it!] will be chomping merrily through the wiring loom by now, so a new engine loom is usually a matter of when, not if, on these. [Or even "when did it last have a new one!"]

Check the blades of that ignition switch main fuse first; if they're even slightly corroded....
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - bluebird
I removed and cleaned all the terminals and fuses I could find including the battery and starter motor. I looked at the kopex covered wiring loom and externally and from what I could see there were no signs of wear anywhere. The ECU does have a loose 3 sided 3mm thick metal surround to the left hand section the top and the right hand section are completley exposed, my first thought was that the dealer last week had left off a cover.

I then started the car allowed it to warm up and then drove forwards and backwards. Eventually it cut out going forward and as I was travelling so slow the momentum of the car did not restart the engine. I then turned over the starter motor for 20 or 30 times and it either turned for 1 to 2 seconds and then cut out or it did not turn over at all. I left it for 5 minutes, tried it again and it started first time. Bearing in mind what you said about a possible fault with the wiring to the starter motor I turned the engine off and restarted it successfully at least the next 20 times. During the course of the day I have gone to the car and started the car without any problems. I do not think there are two faults only the one and the reason the car will not restart is because it still in the cut out fault mode.

Any thoughts about the accelarator/sensor pedal assembly or do you still think its the loom?
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - Screwloose
bluebird

The ignition switch fuse is the big 60 amp one in the corner of the underbonnet box. The crash box does only cover one ECU plug - presumably the one with the live feeds in it. Was it cutting into the rubber loom?

When you say the starter turned over for 2 seconds and then cut out; do you mean that the starter stopped cranking the engine, or that the engine stopped trying to fire?

I'd be amazed if this had anything to do with the APP sensor.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - bluebird
Screwloose

No the crash box did not appear to be cutting into the loom but I will have a more detailed look in the morning.
After 1 or 2 seconds the starter stopped cranking the engine, it was instant in each case. I felt it was just cranking the engine but it was never going to fire, it never attempted to fire, it just stopped cranking the engine until I switched back the ignition switch and tried again and got the same result or it would not crank at all. Out of say 20 attempts maybe 3 resulted in no response at all and the remaining cranking the engine between the 1 or 2 seconds.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - Screwloose

Knowing that; I think the way to crack this is to work on the starter non-function.

It's a fairly simple circuit; live through the Maxi fuse to the keyswitch and then down the white wire to the solenoid, through the brushes and back through the earths.

Pull that 60A fuse right out and examine it closely for any cracks, corrosion or arc-marking on the blades. The handbook may help to confirm it's ID and function as you are - of course - right on a wiring change-point during '01.

Then pay extremely close attention to the main engine earth cable - particularly the crimping and security of it's terminals, both at the battery and engine block. [A loose battery terminal could, just, be at the root of this; so remove and thoroughly clean them.]
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - bluebird
Screwloose

Thanks for that, I have some free time tomorrow AM, so I will check the ECU box/wiring then the starter circuit and carry out the work as you suggest.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - bluebird
Screwloose

Checked the wiring from the ignition switch throught the 60A fuse, checked the fuse cleaned and replaced. Removed an cleaned the spade on the solenoid, cleaned both battery terminals, removed and cleaned earth cable conns to engine block.

Took another look at the ECU. There is no top to the three sided cage and it was very loose so it was fairly easy to see all the way around the loom as it left the rubber housing with the aid of a mirror and it looked okay. Despite this I decided to remove the plug from the ECU and inspect throughly. There were small areas where the plastic insulation had lifted but the wiring underneath was not visable. I prised back the plastic insulation tape type covering to expose the wiring and once again it looked fine with absolutely no sign of wear. I wrapped the 20mm length of loom between the rubber cover and the plug with several layers of insulation tape and carefully reinserted the plug. I then cut a small piece of 15mm foam pipe insulation and wedged it over that portion of the loom to separate it from the cage and to hold the cage steady.

I took the car for a test drive on a quiet road driving forward and back and it took only 5 or 6 times for the engine to cut out just as before. It was difficult to restart just as before in fact nothing had changed. My hopes have been dashed but at least I got it home - just. Any ideas where I can go from here?
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - Screwloose

If you can get both the ECU plugs out, then the top of the box is indeed missing? One plug is normally completely covered and impossible to remove.

The problem is still in that wiring circuit - somewhere. It's now clear that it's not going to be an easily-visible one that you can find yourself. I'd guess that it's more likely to be in the feed to the ignition switch or in the earths than anywhere; but this now needs an auto-electrician's hands on it.

It will need loads putting on the circuit and meticulous measurement of volt drops that might reveal any weaknesses in the wiring or, more likely, the terminals. This is where an experienced expert earns his corn.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - bluebird
Screwloose

Thanks very much for your help, I will now have to consider all the options. When I get a final result to this awful problem whether good or bad I will post the story.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - hunter1260
Hi there i've just had the exact same problem as your original post states! I've gone down the route to take it to renault and let them find out whats wrong, they have come up with this. A £974.48 bill for 1x throttle body (£252) 1x wiring loom (£108) 1x top dead centre sensor (£178) 1x battery(£68!!!) 1x diagnostic run (£88) and VAT & Labour oh my goodness! My car has done 57k miles been looked after very well and been owned a total of 5 years! What crap are they building in France! Who builds a car that lasts 5 years only!

This is waht the garage told me the wiring loom got fixed a year ago and now has been worn through. This caused the battery to short out and also knacker up the TDC sensor (possibly why your car doesnt fire up right away!). When my car also fired up straight away for 5 years not one engine starting fault!. Also the with the wiring loom being rubbed through this has allowed water ingress to seap into the ECU (£400 which im not replacing!) down the loom! When it was repaired a year ago why wasnt the loom or whatever it rubs on removed or rerouted so it no longer rubs?!!!!!!!! I am an engineer in the RAF and builds Tornado engines for a living, it seams that renault cant fix a problem their design causes even when they know about it! I'm so angry and will be complaining shortly surley there should have been a recall to rectify the wiring problem which has caused all this damage!

good luck sorting yours out hopefully for the cheaper!
I have paid through the nose as i need my car for a weekly commute to work.

Edited by Webmaster on 28/01/2008 at 09:56

01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - elekie&a/c doctor
If you have not already done so,I would suggest check the wiring harness that exits the small relay box (under plastic cover)that is located behind the n/side headlight .Inspect the wiring that routes down along the chassis below battery tray to engine.Peel back the insulation and check for a thin green wire.This is the fuel system relay trigger circuit to engine Ecu.Very common for these to corrode.hth
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - Screwloose
hunter 1260

£178 for a TDC sensor? Did they miss out the decimal point? £17.80 is about right; they fail in droves, but are at least cheap. [Fitting the modified plug takes just a few minutes.]

So the crash box nibbled the wiring; [who'd have thought an unsupported thick-steel box would chafe through the wiring it's left loosely resting on?] and this "shorted" the TDC sensor and damaged the battery? On which planet?

There isn't a single wire in the ECU loom that could take enough current to over-heat the battery - they'd just fry and burn through straight away. How do you "short" a wire-wound sensor with a 600 Ohm resistance using 12 volts at 0.02 of an amp?

Seeing as the crash box rests on a rubber-embedded loom; how does that allow water into the ECU and just how deep was this water the car was submerged in?

There are serious questions here about the competence of your dealer's staff and their willingness to tell bare-faced lies and use creative accounting to try and cover their failures.

Did they actually fix the original problem?
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - bluebird
Hunter1260

When did you get the car fixed at the dealers and having had to pay that huge amount did it cure the problem? Does your Clio run okay now?
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - hunter1260
i pick it up on staurday! i will let u know when i get it back!
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - djo
My wife's 05 1.2 16v is currently sitting at home awaiting its appointment with the local dealer, with what sounds like exactly the same problem.

Her car has done about 19-20k right now, so is a little younger than the ones described here.

One thing to add, is the last couple of times this has happened, there has been a terrible burning smell. One reason why I got her insured on my car to do her commute to work in, we have no confidence in the Clio.

Lets hope that they can sort this on the warranty which lasts until August.

David
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - dafoster
..David

Im about ready to get a baseball bat and wack the crap out of my car. I have the same problem as mentioned above. I bought the car in october, 2 weeks later cut out whilst driving in rush hour traffic too. took it to the dealer he said he had to change some electrical cables. so all good took the car home. Novemeber happened again, December happened again and now the other day happened nearly had a crash. Ive been to the garage every time this has happened and im not impressed. Just got the car back yesterday and today about 1hr ago it has cut out again. left it for 10mins and now its running fine so why is this happening?
I think best course of action is to get a can of petrol and set light to the car cause ive never had so much trouble with a car before!
also my warranty has ran out, so it can only go so long before i get charged for the repairs!
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - hunter1260
Hi all i picked up my clio from renault on saturday one arm one leg later, did about 20 miles fine problem fixed no problem. until i went to start her up again on the second attempt smelt petrol stopedd checked under the bonnet and the main fuel pipe leading to the fuel injectors on the front of the engine wasnt connected!!!! fuel all over the HT leads and alternator! so i went back to renault in Mansfield and gave them what for and they offered this in compensation a service, 12 months warranty which covers my ECU anyway(£400) (read previous post) and a full tank of petrol. this is what a bit of bartering got me a full service parts and labour inc, valet only outside tho!, 12 months warranty, reduced service in a year with 6 months warranty after that and a full tank! the problem seams to be fixed but now i have the extra warranty i will get the computer done and i will put some extra measures to stop the wiring loom chaffing on the cage finally got the problem sorted so there is hope but it cost me nearly a grand! hope you can catch it early enough not to need renault to fix it tho.

hope this helps
hunter1260

Edited by Webmaster on 24/02/2008 at 00:12

01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - clio_rage
Hi all,

Strangely, it's comforting to find a forum full of people who are also ready to hunt down and kill all responsible for this fault.

I've had my Clio for a year (admittedly, it's second hand) - for the first six months it was fine, but since I've had nothing but problems - the latest of which, being this delightful "I'll cut out whenever I pink fluffy dice feel like it" one. I've taken it to three different garages, paid an incredible amount of money and nothing has been fixed. Originally, as with above, the problem was generally only when in first gear and pulling away from junctions. However, this morning, it decided it couldn't be bothered at about 30mph and just cut out.

I'm so reluctant to take it to a garage again as I feel throwing £100-odd down the drain would have the same effect. I'm now looking into getting a new car - which I can't afford but I suppose peace of mind is priceless... Good luck everyone - I hope you find a cheaper solution than me!

:o)

Edited by Dynamic Dave on 08/02/2008 at 10:04

01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - ih8clios
Hi

I can't beleive this is such a common problem. Why has it taken the Renault garage 4 weeks to finally figure this out?!! They rang me sounding so pleased that they had found the problem - car required a new throttle body. However after forking out £350, the dreaded electric light returned the next day. 3 weeks later and they have finally found the problem! (loon wire)

My car is 2nd hand, 2001 model. I have owned it now for 2 years, and had nothing but trouble with it. This is the last straw!!! I agree with the majority here........don't bother with a clio, sell it or burn it!
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - benfaulkner
I empathise with the many comments on this thread as my clio dci is currently in the garage with the same issue. They originally told me it was the tdc sensor but upon testing found it wasn't. Now they are fixing the loom. I'm told it'll be £235. This is on top of £145 2 weeks ago for a cracked driveshaft that was causing my abs to operate all the time. I am really hacked off now as although she is very economical and cheap to tax and insure this poor reliability due to incompetant design on Renaults half is making it an expensive car to run.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - Can't believe it
Having read all the comments above with regard to starting problems, chaffing wiring, running at 2500 revs, massive Renault garage bills, I'm disgusted. My son's 03/53 1.2 dynamique petrol, has been over the past couple of years showing most of the symptoms mentioned by people in this chat room. It started off with dodgy starter motor problems, has progressed to starting when it feels like it, suddenly going into get me home safely mode (max 30mph) which is extremely dangerous when you're on a motorway. I was quoted £650 at my local Renault garage to have this problem fixed, thiswas after paying to have the problem diagnosed (£130.00 I got this figure reduced after negotiation). A new wiring loom, surprise, surprise, and a throttle unit, why oh! why don't they just tell the truth and say, there is a duff cage over the wiring loom which chews through the wiring and shags everything up electronically. Instead they say with glee, we have diagnosed the problem and it is bla bla bla. They know before they start diagnostics what the problem is, why not be truthfull. (A breakers who deal in french car spares only Cit-Ren Ltd who I contacted over the cost of a used throttle unit, knew straight away what the problem would be, so why don't Renault dealership's. I thought my son's problem was unusual, I see it is the norm. Changes yor view on Renault UK doesn't it.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - slarty-bart-farst
What a shame that this great car often the first car for many in it's 1.2 form should exibit such problems, it's creating a market of potential buyers who will NEVER go near a Renault again.

Hopefully I can solve this, I work in the industry, harness problems have been my business for 27 years!
And lets get one thing straight it's not only Renault who have this problem, 90s onwards cars are covered in sensors and wiring and it's only getting worse.

The main problem is the dealers diagnostics depend on the wiring loom being good, it is difficult for the kit to tell a duff sensor from a crap harness, it is taken that in this day and age we can string one wire from A to B without messing up, well yes A to B is OK but try tat 400 times with low cost labour and hey presto harnesses with intermitant faults, I think we all accept the car may go wrong but the endless procession to the dealer with the fault still there is the killer.

I am about to attempt to fix a 1992 1.2 for a friend, it's been to the dealer for a diagnotic which reported MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) sensor and ECU (Engine Control Unit........the computer) as POSSIBLE causes of cutting out at junctions and erratic starting which are (and heres the clue) INTERMITANT.

It is true the problem of the metal covers on the ECU rubbing the wiring through is well known to the "trade" I guess that not all cars are aflicted with this very visual fault but it is the number 1 place to start and s previouos posts if this has happened then voltage may have been splashed round to sensors and they are damaged too..........unliky though.

Another reported fault is within the plastic tube in the harness simply as broken connections, this I do nott understand as there shouod be not connections inside the conduites, except there could be inline crimps in there, inline crimps are a major headache to find but easy to fix, I'll know ore once ive been able to get to the car.

So 99% of the time for intermitant read WIRING/CONNECTOR fault......electronics tend to pack up for good or work.

I happen to know that the rate of replacement of ECUs is so great UK stock is exausted. Im sorry but ECUs do not pack up at that rate......95% of these ECU replacements are as a result of the diagnostic kits inability to find the wiring fault combined with a suck it and see mentality from service staff and the fact that the ECU's security code themselves to the car once fitted so they can not simply swap over a unit to see if its the problem and at £400+ a time this is a very expensive game of trail and error.

So before I get chance to weild the test meter after this weekend anyone out there with any experiance for disturbing the wiring on or around the ECU and engine block especialy the MAP sensor and this faullt occuring/going away.

Anyone with any ECU or MAP sensor stories to tell, please post, we will get to the bottom of this with sufficient data. Meantime ill get under the bonnet and post my findings here.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - Screwloose
slarty [Love your coastlines..]

As there are five different 1.2 units in a '92 Clio 1; we'd better have the engine code [E7J ??? etc.]

Any idea of the exact codes found? The MAP sensor hose is a good first check - the idle control set-up can be many different things depending on engine code.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - slarty-bart-farst
Screw lose ill get the exact codes. As fas as i understand the MAP sensor can thow the fueling out so cutting out ocures and the intermitant nature poiints to wiring/connector fault. I know throttle body and lamba sensor can may be do the same but im going on th basis the Renault diagnostic has narrowed it down to MAP or ECU seeing as the MAP has been replaced and worked for 5 weeks im gussing the ECU is o.k and the MAP was, the action of replacing the map distrubed the wiring fault.
How did you guess the coast line?
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - Screwloose
slarty

Just because there are codes stored, doesn't necesarily mean that it was this fault that left them....

Stalling-when-coming-to-rest rarely flags a code; I'd "bear the codes in mind" until the make of fuelling equipment is known - A Bosch Mono-Mot with motorized throttle-stop failure is my best guess until then. [Or a Marelli, or Delco, or Bendix, stepper motor - all systems used on these.]

Fortunately; this year doesn't have a fly-by-wire throttle body - and it's unusual to have an oxy sensor cause stalling.

[Everyone knows that you designed the coastline of Norway for the mice...?]
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - slarty-bart-farst
Screwloose I particuly like the crinkly bits, your right Norway was one on mine.
Anyway you know your stuff Hitchikers and Cars! A bit more about me I too get involved in the car industry I have a UK factory doing nothing else, we sell world wide.
.*********
Howver I head under bonnet sure enough the metal cover over the ECU gone but.......rub marks from the metal edge nearly through the Red + feed but also a partialy into a yellow wire, the green oxide showed water/salt had got to the wires and I guess the metal lid could have splashed + on the other cut wire. I cut and repaired the red wire, water had not traveled up the wire so it soldered O.K
Pulled out the ECU plugs, bone dry and all the seals present at the back so no worries.
Ran the car just the same but this was observed, SERVE light on all the time, car runs perfect until the "Electronic Fault" Light lights up so I figured just take the bulb out job done!

If only twas that simple anyway with the "EF" light on the tickover hunts down to near zero then up again to 500 rpm at about 1/2 second intervals.

Its had 3 map sensors, first one in the Renault garage and the car ran ok for 3 months! second one gave a day of OK running and the third a few hours. You can rev the car hard and put the light out and get rid of the fault but let the revs drop (like comming up to a round about) and your at eisk on the light comming back on.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - Screwloose

There are so many makes and types of fuelling equipment on these, I'm really going to need that engine code; it should be on the front of the block; probably low down, gearbox end.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - Saints best kept secret
Hi I'm new to this and I think I might be posting this in the wrong place but I have a 51 plate Clio 1.2 16v petrol and it also cuts out while driving. I get a light with a coil on the dash?

As glad as I am to see I'm not the only one with these issues, I could use some advice. I read about the "black box" or cage at the back of the engine and I can clearly see it but how do I remove it to check the wires and re-insulate them?

Its VERY loose and wiggles around if you touch it but looks like its welded together?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Kindest regards to all,

Chris.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - Screwloose
Chris

Although the dealers are removing these boxes now [NCAP - what's that?] I'm loath to post that info on an open forum - you'll appreciate the legal implications in these litigious days....

If you were to persuade a mod to pass me your e-mail; that would be different....

If the box has nibbled the loom; then you can clearly see it where the edge of the steel rests on the loom. A temporary piece of insulating material stuck between will prove the point.

Wiring loom deterioration below the fusebox and battery is still the most likely cause.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - Saints best kept secret
Thanks for the reply, a friend of mine is mechanically minded so I'll get him to check the wiring.

Everything going into the box looks ok so I'm not convinced its that but there have been comments about the silicone inside going crisp and allowing sparks to cross over as well as chafed wires so thought its a good place to start?

Had new coil pack last year, just cleaned the throttle manifold with carb cleaner, just given the car a full service, air filter, oil filter, new oil & coolants, spark plugs etc. This has cured the "rough idling" now ticks over nicely, its just this cutting out problem now!

I'll let you knwo the results of our inspection.

Thanks so much for your help.

Chris
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - omegpots
Chris Although the dealers are removing these boxes now [NCAP - what's that?] I'm loath to post that info on an open forum - you'll appreciate the legal implications in these litigious days.... If you were to persuade a mod to pass me your e-mail; that would be different.... If the box has nibbled the loom; then you can clearly see it where the edge of the steel rests on the loom. A temporary piece of insulating material stuck between will prove the point. Wiring loom deterioration below the fusebox and battery is still the most likely cause.
Chris Although the dealers are removing these boxes now [NCAP - what's that?] I'm loath to post that info on an open forum - you'll appreciate the legal implications in these litigious days.... If you were to persuade a mod to pass me your e-mail; that would be different.... If the box has nibbled the loom; then you can clearly see it where the edge of the steel rests on the loom. A temporary piece of insulating material stuck between will prove the point. Wiring loom deterioration below the fusebox and battery is still the most likely cause.

Chris Although the dealers are removing these boxes now [NCAP - what's that?] I'm loath to post that info on an open forum - you'll appreciate the legal implications in these litigious days.... If you were to persuade a mod to pass me your e-mail; that would be different.... If the box has nibbled the loom; then you can clearly see it where the edge of the steel rests on the loom. A temporary piece of insulating material stuck between will prove the point. Wiring loom deterioration below the fusebox and battery is still the most likely cause.

To remove the anti tamper cover on the ECU plug you will find a little slot on the back face of the metal box, take 2mm diameter drill use it to feel through the slot into a wheel with holes in the edge move the wheel upwards by taking the drill out and finding a lower hole move upwards and repeat again with a lower hole, be patient as the thread you are turning is very fine. Eventually the thread will have wound the release catch along the thread and released the two halfs of the heavy anti tamper cover which regularly rubs through the loom. As a Renault technician said I have seen this problem once week for the last 10 years, take it off and throw it a far as you can. It serves no electrical shielding purpose it is just anti tamper. God bless Renault with all their quirky ideas, drive the change is the slogan, change the marque would be more appropriate.

01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - omegpots
Chris Although the dealers are removing these boxes now [NCAP - what's that?] I'm loath to post that info on an open forum - you'll appreciate the legal implications in these litigious days.... If you were to persuade a mod to pass me your e-mail; that would be different.... If the box has nibbled the loom; then you can clearly see it where the edge of the steel rests on the loom. A temporary piece of insulating material stuck between will prove the point. Wiring loom deterioration below the fusebox and battery is still the most likely cause.
Chris Although the dealers are removing these boxes now [NCAP - what's that?] I'm loath to post that info on an open forum - you'll appreciate the legal implications in these litigious days.... If you were to persuade a mod to pass me your e-mail; that would be different.... If the box has nibbled the loom; then you can clearly see it where the edge of the steel rests on the loom. A temporary piece of insulating material stuck between will prove the point. Wiring loom deterioration below the fusebox and battery is still the most likely cause.

Chris Although the dealers are removing these boxes now [NCAP - what's that?] I'm loath to post that info on an open forum - you'll appreciate the legal implications in these litigious days.... If you were to persuade a mod to pass me your e-mail; that would be different.... If the box has nibbled the loom; then you can clearly see it where the edge of the steel rests on the loom. A temporary piece of insulating material stuck between will prove the point. Wiring loom deterioration below the fusebox and battery is still the most likely cause.

To remove the anti tamper cover on the ECU plug you will find a little slot on the back face of the metal box, take 2mm diameter drill use it to feel through the slot into a wheel with holes in the edge move the wheel upwards by taking the drill out and finding a lower hole move upwards and repeat again with a lower hole, be patient as the thread you are turning is very fine. Eventually the thread will have wound the release catch along the thread and released the two halfs of the heavy anti tamper cover which regularly rubs through the loom. As a Renault technician said I have seen this problem once week for the last 10 years, take it off and throw it a far as you can. It serves no electrical shielding purpose it is just anti tamper. God bless Renault with all their quirky ideas, drive the change is the slogan, change the marque would be more appropriate.

01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - bikes2000
Hi i had the same problem for quite some time i tried all sorts to put it right , and i think i have now found the problem,the symtoms were that the little coil symbol would come on at tick over and then car would stall ,if you tried to rev it the revs fluctuated, as soon as the little light went out it would tick over and rev fine,well after many hours i have now found if you disconect the pipe on the rocker cover that runs down to the emmissions filter under offside wing the car runs perfect and the light stays off ,there must be a blockage in the breathing system some where ,i was getting a fault code telling me manifold sensor which i tried changing three times ,taking this pipe off really does cure it,i have read many forums where people have had this problem and no one has been able to sort it please try this and let me know if it helps cheers
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelarating from idle - Clio_Owner

Hi, I know this is a long time after your original post but if you see this, did your problem go away permanently after removing this pipe or did it return later?

Has anyone else tried this and what effect did it have on the cutting out problem? I'm at a loss and this is the only thing we haven't tried, but my husband is reluctant to do it.

I have a 1.2 16v 2001 clio that randomly cuts out at low revs with the engine management light coming on. Once the light goes off I can drive as normal. I have to rev the engine up to about 6000 for a minute or two to get the light to go off but this isn't ideal at 7am every morning!

Thanks.

01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelerating from idle - preggy_meggy
Have you sorted out the cutting out yet Chris? I'm having EXACTLY the same poblem and it is doing my head in.

Also, are you from Southampton? (Saints) If you are I might have to enlist your help because I seriously don't want to take this piece of junk back to my local Renault dealer {no naming/shaming please} because I know they will totally shaft my wallet!!

Edited by Dynamic Dave on 23/09/2008 at 10:24

01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelerating from idle - ivesy
Hey Guys I'm new on this forum, just enquiring for my sister, feel sorry for her, she's just got this car and now this exact problem is starting to happen, she's a student so has no money so I will have to try and fix it for her.

Is there a chance in hell that taking the idle control valve off and cleaning it will help?
At the moment the problem is just the low idling and the occasional cuttign out, the car starts fine?
Cheers, Tom.
01 1.2 16v. cuts out when returns to idle. ANOTHER - madassteve
Hi

I have had a 2001 (51 reg) 1.2 Clio 16V since new, and up until recently I have been very happy with it.

1 year ago it would cut out when accelerating from idle and would not go above 30mph as previous people have complained about, my local garage who I trust (NOT RENAULT) diagnosed the fault as lambda sensor for me (£50) and fitted a new sensor, this solved that problem. Although at this time the garage owner asked if anyone has ever done any work on the ignition system of the car, because the crash box had been removed and so had ?some other cable protection? No work had ever been done here. This made me very suspicious of a garage I don?t normally use that I had taken my car to for MOT a few months before.

I am now having a new problem, similar to the problems described by many others on this page. The engine warning light will come on when the car returns to idle. This only happens if the car has been used for more than 20mins or so. The fault is intermittent, but appears to be getting worse. Last time I drove through London it cut out so many times I ran the battery out firing the engine. The engine runs fine apart from this fault.

It has annoyed me so much I have bought a new car, but now I have to try and sell a non runner! So much am reluctant to take it to Renault and get ripped off for all kinds of sensors and wiring.

I have checked the crash box; it has not chafed through the wiring. I have removed both ECU connections, they seem fine, I have also checked the ignition fuse, and this seems fine.

When I get a chance I am going to remove the battery and check the cables underneath for wear.

Does anyone have any other suggestions? Anything else to check?

Thanks, Steve
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelerating from idle - bikes2000
please read my post it might help you
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelerating from idle - rideabike
My guess is the fault is endemic with Clio's electrical systems. I live in Australia and have had a Clio 1.4l for 5 years too. Always had a nagging fault in that the interior light would not go off and the red door sensor warning light would show on the dash. Dealer could never properly fix it whilst under warranty). Recently the car experienced starting problems and so took it in for a service (AUD 300!- to basically change the oil)) and to fix the fault (also had an oil leak) , was advised that the Crankshaft sensor was shot which caused the starting problem, also advised needed new brakes and rotors . The leak due to a cracked thermostat housing... and so booked in for repairs as parts needed to come from Melbourne (quote AUD 1600) . Dealer then rings to advise the fuel pump is also toast due to fault in electrical system which also was linked to the faulty sensor problem (new pump ..AUD 900) . Electrician spends more than a day tracking the electrical problems (like peeling a rotten onion - more faults discovered the deeper they went)-by now car has been with dealer for 5 days!! Been advised today that total repair coast is AUD$2700!
This is for a cheap piece of french metal and plastic that supposedly is a car...
Two lessons learnt here, never buy a french car, and never take it to a renault dealer for service *(at least never once the warranty has finished). Suggest you get rid of the car and buy something not french. Anyone want to buy a Clio -we're getting rid of ours!
01 1.2 16v. cuts out whilst accelerating from idle - Alvis7
I have a 2001 Clio II and I have been experiencing this problem for some time now. It's incredibly frustrating because no-one has been able to fix it, so I'm also looking to replace my Clio. For what it's worth, I've found the only way to get the car running if it cuts out is to push or hill start it. So these days, I pray it cuts out on hills.
02 Clio 1.2 - marky_b
My sons clio stooped on M25 late Sunday night. Only had it 2.5 months. RAC fella said he could see that the metal clamp had gnawed its way through some of the wiring.
How easy is it to remove the clamp? It seems loose enough but must be invisibly held in place.
Needless to say the 3 month dealer warranty doesn't cover the wiring loom!!
I guess that the loom connects through connector sockets, does anyone know if its possible to replace it yourself, or does it need to go to a service centre?
02 Clio 1.2 - marky_b
As a follow on I've managed to remove the metal clamp, checked the wiring and aside from a tiny exposure of one cable core, that can be easily insulated, all looks to be intact. Tried to start once it had been re-assembled, but no joy. Engine turned over but wouldn't fire. Fuel gauge has been in-operative for some time, but I know that there is fuel in it. Any thoughts / ideas?
02 Clio 1.2 - ezzaneale
I have the same problem,I have removed the metal cover .I can see exposed wires,damage looks very minor .I have covered the exposed wires with installation tape.
The "coil light " is still on,and the car is still running rough and misfiring.
Any Ideas.

02 Clio 1.2 - Vman
Hi y'all...

Yep you guessed it.... got the same pink fluffy dice problem!!

Renault fixed the problem two years ago with a replacement throttle body. It has now occurred again and seems that the loom needs replacing.

They are charging me circa £225 for labour (village South England - usually very reasonable), saying they need a day to take the manifold off etc to get deep down and dirty 'replacing the loom'.

Can you please let me know exactly how much work is involved in this as I think they owe me a reduced labour rate, rather than the inflated one I can see from ere!!

Many thanks and good luck y'all,

{please take a moment to read the no swearing policy - welcome to the forum, btw}

Edited by Dynamic Dave on 02/09/2009 at 10:10

02 Clio 1.2 - renault_hater
Oh wow !! What a can of worms this is. My wifes Renault started playing up last week so I dropped it into my local garage thinking it would just be a sensor somewther, they could fix it so they sent it up to my local Renault Dealer - who after being asked to spend one hour doing a diagnostics spent what they say was 5 hours tracing the problem down to the "Ignition Computer" (Is this new speak for ECU??) and corroded contacts and corroded wires (does copper corrode these days?) and it would cost £1000 to fix plus £350 for the diagnostics. They said it was a really "strange" occurence and they had never seen it before. Call me a cynic, but having read this forum I am tending not to believe them.

Not only should faults like this not be a sympton of a modern car, isnt it time in this World that you should be able to go somewhere and recieve quality trsutworthy service without being ripped off? No wonder the car companies are on their knees. They, like everyone else these days, do not build on loyalty with customers. A customer to them is a one hit wonder, a chance to make the numbers that month, then move on to the next.

Well done Reanult, you've made it onto my "Blacklist". I will never buy a French car again. In fact, I think I am going to source my self a 1980 ish Ford with a distributor, contacts and a plain old carb so I dont have to go and pay some "tete a merde" £350 to tell me a wires bust!!

Good luck Renault, you're gonna need it, cos you aint gonna have loyal customers!

Edited by Dynamic Dave on 15/10/2009 at 12:39

06 Clio 1.2 16v - cuts out at low speed when warm - wishi'dbeenamechanic
Wish I read this thread BEFORE I bought the car 2 months ago; wife would not have 1.5 Colt (didn't like red seats) so I bought Clio, 14K miles only, few weeks ago started cutting out when warm at low speeds, taking some time to restart. Does it every day. Used for daily 80 mile commute, breaks down in road, dangerous. Took to Renault dealer who sold it to me, charged £80 for "diagnostic", (which the "warranty" may cover) can't find anything wrong.
I feel at the start of a 1960's experience where I end up selling the car in a hurry because of an incurable fault. I see there are 48 posts in this thread, last one Oct 09 - does anyone have a cure for this yet, or even a clue - I mean some remedial action worth doing? Concensus seems worn wiring loom , is this worth a try?
And are there any Renault fans out there - I have owned Czech and Japanese cars for 20 years for these reasons!!
06 Clio 1.2 16v - cuts out at low speed when warm - David-RenaultUK
Hi wishi'dbeenamechanic

My name's David and I work for Renault UK, I've just come across your post and I'm concerned that there are outstanding issues on your Clio. If you haven't already done so, may I suggest you give our Customer Services team a call? They will be able to work with you and the dealer to make sure everything possible is done to resolve any problems.

You can reach the team during normal office hours on 08000 72 33 72.

Kind regards
David
Renault UK
06 Clio 1.2 16v - cuts out at low speed when warm - wishi'dbeenamechanic
Hi wishi'dbeenamechanic


SQ

Dear David,
Many thanks, in the days since the matter has been resolved but not satisfactorily. I had contacted Renault customer services who did not get back to me, and seem hard to reach.
Day after Renault dealer failed to find fault (although they did mention computer showed historical heat sensor problem) the car broke down completely at 9 am on a busy roundabout off junction 2 M5 , very dangerous but fortunately I had it as my wife no longer trusted it. I pushed it off the roundabout (and could have sold tickets for that!) and rang home where my son rang renault main dealer in Oxon area who could not advise of a renault dealer near me nor offer any advice. Renault Customer Services could not take his call live.
Fortunately Green Flag (excellent as ever!) came out in 20 mins diagnosed a failed heat sensor and replaced the part at their nearby garage for £95 all in a few hours ( they said the other major failure they see with clios is the cam belt sensor on the side of the block). They also gave me a lift to work meanwhile and , after being 35 years a member , remain a brand I would recommend to anyone. The car has run well in the weeks since and my wife is starting to trust it again. However I am left with 1) £180 bills on a car a few weeks out of 3 year warranty 2) no response from Customer services 3) the feeling that I should go to the non-franchised garage in Oxon who service my sons' elderly Japanese cars, rather than the main dealer. I think I have been fair here, any thoughts?
Regards wishi'dbeenamechanic

Edited by Dynamic Dave on 29/12/2009 at 14:42

06 Clio 1.2 16v - cuts out at low speed when warm - David-RenaultUK
Hi wishi'dbeenamechanic
Thanks for the reply, I'm sorry to hear about the outcome and I'm concerned that you didn't get a response from the Customer Service Team - you should have done.

I'd like to investigate this with Customer Services and make sure someone get's back to you. To that end could you please send me an email to eresponse@renault.co.uk with the following information:

- A link to this thread
- Your name
- Your contact telephone number (ideally mobile)
- Your vehicle registration number and current mileage
- The dealer you were using
- If you can remember, when you contacted customer services.

I'll then be able to look into this for you.

Many thanks

Kind regards
David
Renault UK
Renault Megane 16 -cuts out at low speed when warm - Alison
Hello there.
I really hope someone can give me some sound advice. My Renault is a Megane 1.6 hatch (year 2000).
I just paid R2285.00 to have the alternator fixed as the battery light came on when driving. That was on the 23rd of December. Last week it started being edgy about starting & threatening to cut out so I had a new battery put in. Blow me down, this morning it cut out as I was slowing down towards a stop street. This happened a few times & I have to rev the engine to keep going. It did cut out totally but started again. Also started again when I free-wheeled down a hill.
I have just phoned my renault garage & they say I must bring it in NEXT Wednesday. (The are fully booked). The problem is that I work 30 kilometres out of town in an industrial area. I come in early so it is not terribly safe as I am alone. I am also a single female & do not have another car I can use in the interim. Now I have to put up with this nonsense & they cannot see the vehicle immediately. I am really fed-up with the car & no longer trust it.
Help - advice please.
Thanks, Alison
Renault Megane 16 -cuts out at low speed when warm - Alison
Hell Renault lovers

I have decided to take a day off work tomorrow (more money lost) and look for another car. Sadly it will not be a Renault. I have lost faith in them.
06 Clio 1.2 16v - cuts out at low speed when warm - wishi'dbeenamechanic

Dear David, Thanks for your offer of help which fortunately I did not need as the car has run soundly since then, up to 32K miles, just had Renault servcie all fine.

In fact , I have been so impressed that when I changed my Octavia (186K miles and still fine) I bought a Laguna - 3 years old top Initiale spec, great car. 3 months and from 14 to 21 K miles on , I am really enjoying it. I got it for 65% off new price, so a lease company had taken a hit, but it is a great car offering fantastic value. Couldn't get one at local Renault dealer ( they say they don't stock them) and went to independent car dealer.

2 renaults in the family and am considering a clio for my daughter when she takes test next week....

Need to change my handle to "oknotbeingamechanic" !! Just shows if a maker achieves reliability and good service back up, people will buy despite internet reputation.

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