ToTH
John S has made the best suggestion, weld a nut onto the stud and heat the stud up. Do it a couple of times get the stud red hot but dont melt it. After it has cooled down it should come out fairly easily.
Bill
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I agree with Bill. On very-siezed steam railway bits, I weld a nut to the stud (or sheared bolt) to give some purchase. If it still won't free off, I heat the thing to red heat and cool it very rapidly with water a couple of times and this usually does the trick.
However, this is with ferrous items, not aluminium. Please don't allow the aluminium head to heat up too much because, as I'm sure you know, the melting point is a lot lower than steel and you get almost NO warning that aluminium is about to melt! In practice, of course, the aluminium will probably conduct heat away too quickly anyway for it to melt, though I'd play safe all the same.
I also agree that WD40 isn't a lot of use for freeing corroded parts, Plus Gas or diesel fuel being far better. Also, I have a lovely set of Easi-Out extractors but have yet to use them successfully, one snag being that it is very difficult to drill centrally in a broken stud in an awkward position, and if it is too hard for a normal HS drill bit it would need drilling with a cobalt drill running in coolant. Manifold studs, though, are likely to be in a fairly mild grade.
Finally, like others I have had very good results with using Coppaslip on things like manifold studs and we use it quite a lot at the railway. We use a special graphited grease on the very high temperature parts like superheater element bolts but I've never tried this on a car engine (and it is very messy!).
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"Why don't manufacturers make exhaust studs and nuts out of something that doesn't rust???"
Because it's not in their interests!
Think, 6,7,8 years down the line - it's not their problem!
MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org
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"Why don't manufacturers make exhaust studs and nuts out of something that doesn't rust???" Because it's not in their interests! Think, 6,7,8 years down the line - it's not their problem!
Goes to show how c**p bike reviews are.
All focused on speed and handling. My next bike will have alloy frame and swing arm, Stainless exhaust and no shims.
The bike mags never mention the *huge* advantages of these features or which bikes have them.
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Parp, Parp!
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ToTH
Have to agree with you on the bike tests they never have anything about maintenance or just a passing comment on quality of finish.
My Blackbird is now looking scruffy after 3 winters and 32000 miles, the paints OK but the fittings are very dull or rusty. The additional cost for all of the fittings to be in stainless would add about £50.00 max to the cost of the bike. But add up all those £50.00s over 50,000 bikes and then you can see why they are made of greeen cheese.
Bill
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Hi, Bill
My bike stands out during the day and gets used throughout the year.
As you say, after a while the chromed bits get to look a bit tarnished and without fairings the rest of the fiddly bits which you can't get to acquire a coating of grease and road dirt.
Even a pressure washer doesn't make much impression. Now, where can I get it steam cleaned, I wonder?
ATB
Brian
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Just another thought. If there are 8 studes in all, is it absolutely vital to use them all?
Wouldn't 7 suffice?
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Just another thought. If there are 8 studes in all, is it absolutely vital to use them all? Wouldn't 7 suffice?
It's a bike & there is no exhaust manifold, as such. Each of the four pipes has two studs.
If I can't get it out I will *try* it but I think it'll blow. And I'll know it wasn't done right.
Thanks for the thought though!
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Parp, Parp!
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Cliff/Toad,
Nice idea managing without that stud but the danger is the extra stress transmitted to the remaining stud on that pipe will shear/damage that one as well......and then there were six....you know how it goes!
Actually I'm doing a job like that here today where all that was needed was a new auxillary belt. 15mins to change and £15 for the belt. But there is a problem with a seized tensioner assembly where the previous owner/garage has ruined the fixings in attempting to remove it. Have ended up needing a new tensioner and bracket assembly at around £50, plus more than an hour extra labour, three phone calls to source the part then another wasted hour collecting it.
All because the previous person left it bodged. I try if at all possible never to leave something "not right", it catches up with you (or someone else) in the end.
David W
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Too right DW I also still have a great deal of pride in the bike and want it done *right*.
I trawled the motorfactors yesterday looking for a stud remover. No joy but I have started a regeme of heating it nightly and spraying Plus Gas on in the hope that as any air pocket in the stud/head interface will contract and suck more Plus Gas into the gap.
At the same time I've printed out the numbers of some local welders who might be able to recomend a bloke who'll come to me to weld a nut on the end.
I'm hoping that plus gas + heat + stud remover/welded nut[1] will do the job.
[1] Whichever I can find first.
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Parp, Parp!
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Following on from your thoughts about Plus Gas being drawn in as the thing cools, I wonder if using Plus Gas followed by a drop of cycle oil (3-in-1) might be worth trying?
The cycle oil would be very thin when hot so it should soak in well, and it might provide some 'residual lubrication' once it's all cooled down, whereas the Plus Gas may well have evaporated.
Another thing which I don't know would work with your stud ... screwing a tight bolt/scew clockwise a fraction of a turn (i.e. tightening it) will often break the bond more easily than turning it anti-clockwise.
Good luck!
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The cycle oil would be very thin when hot so it should soak in well, and it might provide some 'residual lubrication' once it's all cooled down, whereas the Plus Gas may well have evaporated.
Thanks I'll give it a go!
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Parp, Parp!
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I ran a GS750 Suzuki with only three out of the eight bolts tightened, due to similar problems. It worked fine until someone nicked the bike, which saved me the problem of extracting broken studs. Every cloud .....
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I ran a GS750 Suzuki with only three out of the eight bolts tightened, due to similar problems. It worked fine until someone nicked the bike, which saved me the problem of extracting broken studs. Every cloud .....
Only three!
One pipe must have had no support at all - relying on the other pipes to hold it in!
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Parp, Parp!
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Yes, it was a four into one pipe, with all four pipes welded into the collector box under the bike, so there was little movement at the exhaust port end. Every electical joint on that bike had been taped up with sellotape!!! (by the previous owner) and it had dried out and half fallen off. Three exhaust studs were the least of my worries at the time, I didn't tend to use it in the wet.
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Yes, it was a four into one pipe, with all four pipes welded into the collector box under the bike, so there was little movement at the exhaust port end.
That really *is* good to know.
Every electicaljoint on that bike had been taped up with sellotape!!! (by the previous owner) and it had dried out and half fallen off. Three exhaust studs were the least of my worries at the time, I didn't tend to use it in the wet.
I'd call that 'character'.
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Parp, Parp!
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Is not "liquid Wrench" sold in the UK? a Standby for years over here (Though the new EPA friendly versions are not as good as the original formula)
www.gunk.ca/Liquid%20Wrench%201,2,3.htm
this Google search page seems to say that some folks have found it
www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=%22liquid+wrench...h
good luck
Randolph Lee
Nantucket Island, U.S.A.
I live in my own little world, but it's ok, they know me
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Randolph,
Liquid Wrench? I thought Coke was used to free off everything in the States! I know its good for freeing off seized pistons.
Hate to think what Coke does to our teeth! Isn't phosphoric acid a main component? By the way, why do you stateside fellas insist on spelling sulphur as "sulfur" but don't spell phosphoric as "fosforic"? ;-)
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A variation on the theme of welding a nut onto the stud:
Find a piece of steel strip, drill a clearance hole,weld this onto the stud then use it as a spanner, gently rocking it in both directions until movement is felt. It is easier to get a good weld on a piece of steel than on a nut.
Hugh
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Hi Toad,
Sorry I missed this thread earlier, but picked it up from your comment on the F1 discussion. Andrew is away on holiday at the moment, but I don't think this is something we could help with anyway. It does sound to me like welding onto the remaining stud is the best way forward, and we don't do welding. That is not to say that you can't trawl local Y Pages for a mobile welding service, there certainly are some around.
Regards, Adam.
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Hi Toad, Regards, Adam.
Thanks Adam!
I'm going to have a phone round as soon as I know for sure the thread of the stud is anti clockwise...
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Parp, Parp!
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I'm sure it will tighten clockwise, so when you tighten the exhaust nuts it tighten the stud.
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I'm sure it will tighten clockwise, so when you tighten the exhaust nuts it tighten the stud.
Me too! Otherwise you could strip the thread *undoing* the nut or undo the stud trying to tighten it.
You'll appreciate I want to be sure, though!!!
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Parp, Parp!
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