Hi, just started doing my mates head gasket and realised I've lent out my Haynes manual,
searched the web but can not find the torque wrench settings, and tightening sequence
anywhere....pls can anyone help? Vehicle is a 1993 PEUGEOT 306 1.4 PETROL
(Engine code TU3M/Z). Thx in advance!!!
OOOPPPSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Tightened bolts to 20Nm, then tried to suss the angular gadget i have, it all went PETE TONG!!!!, I snapped the rocker assembly.... does anyone know how to use these things? Mine is a black plastic 'wheel' with the degrees marked on it, I've sussed it fits onto the half inch drive bit but then I'm stuck!! I put a dab of white Tipex on the forward facing part of the bolt head, then tried to move the mark 240 degrees (almost full circle), is that correct?
you start on the middle bolt and then the middle on the other side then spiral clockwise or anti clockwise outwards (I shouldn't think it matters which way you go. But then again the way you go could be very important.
I would go up to 20Nm gently doing each one to about 7lb ft first then progress to 14 lb ft
Your method of angular tightening sounds right to me, I've never used one with a dial before, but I guess 240 ° means exactly what it says on the tin i.e. 240° which is 60° past a half turn. not 3/4 turn.
Are you positive you had both of the timing marks correct? You had the same pistons at top dead centre as they were when you took it apart.
When you go to buy your new rocker bits have a word with one of the mechanics at the peugeot dealership see what they have to say.
I think you have got the pistons at TDC and the valve was pressing on the piston thus the bust rocker. If you are lucky the calve has not bent. Take the head off and ensure all the valves are gas tight just use some petrol or white spirit to see if the offending valve leaks when close. If all OK get your manual back and set it up properly with a new rocker and finish the job. Regards Peter
After seeing what happened to my Son doing his Tightening of his bolts on a Pug per the Manual. I would'nt do it as they say, because you could very well strip the threads out of the block.
He went to a Website who specialise in the Pug engines and they suggested to do it by Torque settings rather than by Degrees because of this problem. The holes could have rust or corrosion and this reduces the strength of the thread. Which site this was, I dont know.
Best research some of the Pug forum sites as he did.
But in the end by doing it by torque, its just as good without twisting the bolts to hell and ripping the threads out of the block which then you're in big trouble.
A bit late in the day in responding, however just having replaced a 306 head gasket, there are a few things to watch out for, I would recommend new head bolts for a start, the length and thiness of these bolts almost dictates replacement. lock the cam shaft in place along with the flywheel, by fitting a couple of bolts in both holes, its so easy and keeps everything in place, blow out the bolt holes in the block with an air gun (mind your eyes) this makes sure that the bolts can go right in, and as I found having struggled with a dial gauge, its not easy to get it right as the dial gauge I had, wanted to move however tight I thought I had it fixed, in the end I used it just as a guide for the the final angle of my torque wrench.... One thing I am concerned about is that the Haynes manual (and others who may all be quoting from the same source) say after tourquing up to 15lb, the bolts should be turned another 240 degrees however the Elring gasket pack I used recommended 120 degrees, I assume that as they make the gasket they know its limitations!