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can you change the timing chain on a 1995 1.3 ohv fiesta without dropping the engine???
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To be blunt if you can see enough room to undo all the timing cover bolts then it should be OK, just make sure you can see the sprockets when you're down there though, the last thing you want to do is get the chain off then realise you can't see enough to get the timing marks lined up!
Quick question, why are you changing the chain? Personally I wouldn't do it save in case of a complete overhaul. If the chain's rattling it might just be worth changing the tensioner, they are only rubbery/plasticy thingies and can get pretty chewed up.
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thanks very much for your advice i will check the situation and see if i can get sufficient space the car has done 100 000 miles so i may change the chain as well as tensioner
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How many miles it done.it isnt easy but I did a G reg probably different engine.but would guess if it needs changing it needs new engine ie tappets gone as well.may be wrong there.they are sturdy units but when the chain is really that rattly they are in need of replacement due to tappets badly worn as well.like I say may be wrong?
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After 100k I would go for an overhaul unless it's been meticulously looked after. IIRC, 1995 was when Ford replaced the HCS 'version' (like on a G-reg) with the Endura E. It probably won't be any different than the older engine, though they might have tried to make life difficult by replacing standard nuts with some fancy Torx-headed-clockwise-unscrew-thingy or something :-)
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well i have reset the clearances to the factory settings of 0.20 inlet and 0.30 exh and that has quietened the engine however if i rev the engine on the come down of the revs the chain clatters as if it may have stretched or maybe the tensioner has worn a bit
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h9jpk
Timing chain wear and tensioner failure isn't uncommon on these engines, although the tensioners are better than the earlier engines from which this was derived.
Last time I changed a similar timing chain it was on the earlier in line engine in an Escort, and it was reasonably straightforward. The only problem was that you had to drop the sump a little at the front to get the crankshaft sprocket off, which has risk of damage to the gasket. It will be more fiddly with the reduced access of the transverse engine.
Regards
John S
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