|
Hi everyone,
i have a hyundai i40 estate which i,ve had for a while, first Hyundai for me, always had Fords, mondeo's,
had a problem with N/S rear caliper sticking on, wasn't the EBS motor, but the piston, had pads changed in April this year, pistion really hard to push back, but garage managed to fit new pads, week ago N/S was down to the metal again, back to garage, this time would not go back, so only fitted new pads on O/S using old O/S pads on N/S just to get me back on the road, garage told me needed new or recon caliper,
priced these up, £150 + £100 surcharge refunded when they had my ols one back, Hyundai wanted £313 inc vat for new ones, stupid money !!,
i,m a very handy guy, so i ordered a new set of seals from Bigg red £23, if i messed them up just buy a recon one,
this is what i did, DID NOT HAVE BRAKES WOUND BACK VIA PLUG. brake off, wheel off, clamped brake pipe then removed, removed EPB plug, removed caliper, 2 x 14mm bolts, brought in house, removed motor, 2 x alien key bolts, used drill and tork bit to wind piston out fully, there is cog which motor sits on, then wound it back fully, removed piston, WATCH THE FLUID, unscrew the piston ram. then the sir clip from the cog at the rear of the piston, removed ram screw/cog, removed small seal for ram screw/cog, then piston seal, cleaned all parts, making sure seal groves are clean, replaced small O ring seal for ram screw/cog, replaced piston seal, replaced ram screw/cog, replaced sir clip, screwed down ram on threaded ram screw, lightly greased pistion seal with grease supplied, slid dust seal onto piston, pushed piston into caliper, dust seal is the tricky one to fit, bit of fiddling and it was in, when you replace motor, there is a rubber O ring that needs to be replaced before fitting, THATS IT !!, ALL DONE, replace caliper, replace brake pipe, replace plug, i fitted new pads, bleed fluid and thats it, no need to reset anything, parking brake works as it should, DON'T KNOW WHAT ALL THE FUSS IS ABOUT !!!!, done both calipers, working a treat !!!!,
meant to take pictures of it all but forgot : ( shame, really simple to do, no need to be plugged in and wound back, cost me £100 all in, new disc's/pads/seals/fluid, sorted,
if you need any help or have any question, please ask, thanks hope this helps !!!!!
|
|
Presume for some reason this car was not covered by the 5 year warranty? Too old or incomplete service history?
|
|
i,m 2nd owner and did not buy the car from a authorised Hyundai network, it has full service history, but when i tried to book it in for a service and rear pads beginning of year i was told there was a 3 month waiting list,i did mention the seized caliper and that i was told it is a common problem with the rear calipers on Hyundai's, Hyundai service dept told me there is no such problem, Hyundai dealers are thin on the ground here in S/Wales, i could,nt wait so had it done locally using hyundai parts, now the car is out of warranty, 61 plate
|
|
I have read the questions on here and i can tell you that no wind back tool is needed, once the EBS has been wound back with some diagnostic equipment, the piston will just push back, if it doesn't then you have a problem with the seals, the piston is not connected to the screw at all, i know i,ve had them apart !!
diagnostic equipment
Edited by paul burford on 06/10/2017 at 00:49
|
|
It is even better than that ; I have just done the job without any diagnostic equipment. To wind back the piston , detach the motor unit with the plastic cover .Two allen screws, stiff as factory sealed. It will reveal the torx like drive screw. Use a Torx 40 driver clockwise on the caliper motors female " socket" until it stops turning. Then use a g clamp to press back the piston.. Reattach the motor drive unit using a bit of lubrication whilst there.
Otherwise like any simpler non- EPB .
One other point , one of the two caliper 12mm bolts cannot be accessed without detaching and dropping the roll bar link first . It is easier to put the long roll bar bolt in backwards (i.e. thread first from the back rather than ending up with the nut at the back) as access is more difficult .
SO NO SPECIAL TOOLS NEEDED JUST TAKES LONGER
Edited by Laurie Davis on 02/11/2018 at 11:26
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Paul,
I have bought some re-conditioned callipers, new pads and new discs for my i40. When I replace the lot I will make sure the handbrake is disengaged. However how do you set the new callipers up in conjunction with the new pads and discs?
Thank you
Mac
|
|
In the absence of Paul replying to you, i'll tell you how I would go about it based on the VW system which seems to be similar to hyundai.
Fit your new discs & pads.
Before bolting on the motors at the back of the calipers, wind the handbrake screw on the back of the caliper until the pads clamp the disc, then wind back about a turn.
Just enough that the disc can be turned without the pads dragging on the disc.
Do the same both sides then refit the handbrake motors.
Switch on ignition & operate the handbrake a couple of times.
Handbrake should then work fine.
|
|
|
|
|
