Have a 1996 Rover 400, which is haemorrhaging coolant. Cannot locate the leak, but think it is from radiator, and am thinking of using radweld.
Any thoughts experiences with this?
|
It's ok for small leaks, in the short term.
Best thing is to sort out the problem. If it's a K series, the head gasket is the first thing I would look at.
|
|
|
I've never had any problems using radweld apart from once. That was because the head gasket had gone and not what I first thought was leaking.
All the other times I've used it I've never had a problem. It sealed the leak in my mk1 Astra's radiator and it was still leak tight when I sold it 3 yrs later. It sealed a leaking coreplug on my mk2 Cavalier and still no leaks 2 yrs later when I sold it.
My philosophy of Radweld is "if I can fix a leak with it for around £5, why spend £100?"
Of course a lot of it is down to what part of the cooling system is actually leaking. If it's a split rubber hose, or a paper thin rusting radiator, then forget about using Radweld and replace the parts.
There are however mixed views on this site of using radweld. A Forum search should reveal them.
|
|
Can you still get Bar's Leaks?
|
Don't use Radweld on a K series engine!
The engine design includes coolant paths that are very small bore and any leak plugger will just stop the paths up and cause you much bigger and costlier problems. Get yourself a new radiator. If not the radiator then check your water pump.
|
|
Forgive my ignorance but how will I know if it is a K Series?
|
Forgive my ignorance but how will I know if it is a K Series?
All Rover 100s are K-series, apart from diesels.
|
|
|
|
Don't use Radweld on a K series engine! The engine design includes coolant paths that are very small bore and any leak plugger will just stop the paths up and cause you much bigger and costlier problems. Get yourself a new radiator. If not the radiator then check your water pump.
>>
Change the thermostat too while you're at it...
|
|
|
|
|
yep, Bars leak is still around, saw it in my local halfords.
|
|
|
|
|
If the leak cannot be located,ie any water leak should be seen at some point due to anti freeze marks(white/grey lines)on hoses or rad.possibly steam from area of leak,if none found would be inclined to suspect expansion tank-crack-cap.. head gasket or head problem/or *likely stat* as this is common on these.Dont use any leak blockers as these can and will cause further problems.K-series or T.
K series 1.4/6--T 2.0 litre
--
Steve
|
|
|
Recently had this problem with a car. I found the top hose had a minute hole (pin hole)in it, with a thin jet of coolant going straight down to the road, missing all else on tne way. V. difficult to spot as only leaked when hot.
I have found Barr's leaks a little more effective than Radweld. I tend to put some in on older cars before a leak starts: you tend not to get problems, as they are fixed before you get to know of them. There is some beneficial lubrication effect too. Despite running elderly cars with over 100,000 miles up, in 45 years and about a million miles done I have only had to replace one pump, and that in 1967. Once I used two tins to mend a frost cracked aluminium head on a Fiat, the crack being about an eighth of an inch.
|
|
|
