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I have just come out of a 4 month work'a'thon on a triumph 2000 mk2 auto and on its maiden voyage it decided to stop after about 10 miles..The symptoms; stopped when i came to a slow turn then wouldn't start unless i choked right up but then it wouldn't rev as such. As I have only really used it locally for short jorneys and in a workshop enviroment I am thinking the cold weather is a factor...Were the carb's prone to freezing or where air locks a problem.HELP
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I know this is obvious but is there oil in the damper pots on the carbs?
My brother had one of these and a 2500, both mk2s, I got to drive the 2500. What a beautiful car and the engine.......
Nearly lost it there!
Let us know how you get on.
Good Luck.
Steve.
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I had a Mk1 for 10 years and it was a lovely car.
Never had any problems with the engine stopping in cold weather.
I recall refurbishing the carbs once but it was more that I liked playing with it than any faults.
The only trouble I had in cold weather was the heater was very poor. Did everything possible but it was never very good.
The only other problems which wouldn't apply to yours being an auto was the overdrive solenoid.
Used to last about two years but were readily available from scrappies and it was only a ten minute job to change.
And what a lovely sounding motor. Nothing sounds quite like a straight 6 engine especially when changing up into overdrive.
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Sploy, I had my first Triumph 2000 in 1970 and still have a Triumph 2500 MkII. I have never come across carburettor icing or air locks on these cars.
You didn't make it clear if the fault cured itself or whether it's still there, and knowing this would help diagnosis. From what you said I think it is most probably some form of fuel starvation, however it could also be an ignition problem because a spark is sometimes easier to generate in a rich fuel/air mixture as would be provided by choking. I think the best thing to start with is to make sure you have a spark and that there is fuel in the carburettor bowls.
Also, as Shigg said, you could check that there is oil in the dashpots (and that it is not too thick), however I would have expected this to show up as soon as you moved off, not after 10 miles.
Alvin, just for the record, the solenoid in the 'A' type overdrive as used in the Mk1 had to physically redirect the hydraulic oil circuit and was prone to failure. In the later 'J' type, the solenoid was no more than a switch and the hydraulic fluid did the physical bit.
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Sploy, we are trying to provide answers to an incomplete question and that's very difficult. However, here's another thought:
When turning the steering wheel, there is an extra load on the engine from the power steering pump. If the engine idle speed is too low or there is an ignition fault, this extra load could be enough to stall the engine in a slow turn. Different matter on a manual car because the rear wheels would keep the engine turning via the transmission.
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I've had a Mark 1 for about 5 years, and I agree with other contributors, the carburettors are very reliable and most unlikely to be the cause of a sudden stoppage. Even if one failed, through blockage, punctured diaphram, seized dashpot, etc, I would expect the engine to go on running in some form, spluttery, jerky, or something.
I would suspect either a sudden blockage or stoppage in the fuel line, such as rust in the intake, or a failed pump, or more likely, electrical.
Remembering that electrical faults, often only poor connections or wires dropped off, account for 90% of stoppages, the first thing to establish is, is there a spark?
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Thanks Steve for helping out with my chilly Triumph.
Thought I'll tell all that I redirected the air intakes into the engine bay and put put lighter oil in the carb' pots. It seems the she got a cold but remedy of warm air and lighter lube seems to have done the trick...Thanks again. She purring like a kitten now and loving the snow.>>
I know this is obvious but is there oil in thedamper pots on the carbs? My brother had one of these and a 2500, both mk2s, I got to drive the 2500. What a beautiful car and the engine....... Nearly lost it there! Let us know how you get on. Good Luck. Steve.
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sploy
If the symptoms are still there, my money's on fuel starvation. You've been working for four months, but how long has the car been off the road? My experience of laid up cars is that the carburetors and fuel systems can choke with the residue of evaporated petrol, and corrosion of the carburetor alloy bodies. There could also be debris from the fuel tank, which tends to rust internally, blocking the system. 10 miles of driving sloshes the petrol about, and moves the rust.
If the syptoms have gone, it's probably carb. icing, so make sure the intake is collecting warm air.
Regards
John S
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Drove my fathers 1971 Mk 2000 on a cold winters day in Edinburgh around 1972, and it gradually got slower & slower. Carbs were very cold when it eventually stopped. Pulled the intake trunking from the front of the car to allow warmer under-bonnet air to enter carbs. Car started fine after a few minutes and problem did not recur. In those days carb icing was an expected winter problem and not all vehicles had the facility to switch the air intake position.
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Thanks to all the peeps who helped out with my chilly Triumph.
Thought I'll tell all that I redirected the air intakes into the engine bay and put put lighter oil in the carb' pots. It seems the she got a cold but remedy of warm air and lighter lube seems to have done the trick...Thanks again all. She purring like a kitten now and loving the snow.
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Sploy,
Thanks for the feedback!
Enjoy!
Steve.
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