I have a TUD5 motor that is in a Toro 3000D lawn mower. I had to rebuild it due to a rod going thru the side of the block. I have it rebuilt but when I go to start it, the engine just cranks until I spray a tiny amount of starting fluid in the air intake. It will then run but continues to blow white smoke (not from water). Once the engine is warm, I can shut it off, but it takes about 5-8 seconds of cranking to start without starting fluid. The engine has just under 2000 hours on it. I am wondering if it is a timing or injector/injector pump issue. I timed the engine with the three pins and made sure that they were in the middle of the hole on the pump and cam. Could the timing still be that far off and how much adjustment do I have before the valves hit the pistons?
Sounds as though the pump timing is retarded. If you removed the pump, did you put it back in exactly the same place? The white smoke would indicate unburnt fuel so low compression could be the problem, are the valve clearances correct? Did you fit the correct thickness head gasket?
The gasket kit I ordered came with a steel head gasket and the one that came off had a fiber gasket....could it have that great effect? I did not put the pump in exactly the same place as it was removed before I bought the mower. Low compression isn't an issue as the motor has been completely overhauled.
I'd first check pump timing (does the engine sound softer than it used to?) but then definately move onto compression if only to rule things out, regardless of the engine having been rebuilt. These engines do like to lose their valve clearances, and first rule of diagnosis is to proceed methodically and not assume something is in good order due to previous works.
Has it ever started properly since the rebuild, and did you DIY?
If you have had the pump off I would say this is the most lilely problem. The best way to set it is with the engine running, advance it until it starts to get noisy, then retard it a little and test. Turn the pump clockwise frome the back to advance, you will probably need to put a large screwdriver between the pipes to get sufficient leverage.
@Dyaneman I'll check the compression on the engine today. Do you know what it is suppose to be? I'm trying to contact the previous owner on how it started as I did not have it before the engine went. The previous owner said it ran very good, didn't ask about starting. It was a DIY, as there aren't any Peugeot service centers here in the US and Toro is ridiculously expensive. (ex: $450 for a set of rings!).
@Peter.N. When you mention advancing, you are only talking about the pump not the cam...correct?
@madf A hole in the block is actually a relatively easy fix as long as it is not through the water jacket. They make a steel setting compound to fill the hole.
I am a little confused on how to turn the pump while it is running. What bolts do I loosen to do this. I also looked at the timing position according to an Autodata manual and my timing pin spot is at 7 o clock and it shows it being at 1 o clock in the Haynes manual (img30.imageshack.us/i/dsc00701w.jpg/). Does that make any sense? Really appreciate the help!
Is the pump timing hole at 7 o clock with the cam correctly pinned? If so, your pump timing may be 180 degrees out, which will allow the engine to run, just badly; this could be the cause of your problems.
I'm sure the pump pulley has two locking holes, which should be lined up with the threaded holes in the back plate. Use a M8 bolt to pin the pulleys.
If its a conventional pump it should have three slotted holes where its bolted onto the end plate behind the sprocket, if you slacken those, and the rear mounting bracket, you should be able to turn the pump, not very much as you will be bending the injection pipes, but enough to be able to set the timing.
It is definetly 180 degrees out of time give or take some because of the holes being right of center. Bad part is the tension spindle got bent...don't know if it wasn't seated tight against the block when I tried tensioning the belt or what. I'm going to have a machine shop make a new one tomorrow. Hopefully I can see if it runs correctly by the end of the week! One question though...how much deflection is suppose to be in the belt between the cam and injection pulleys? I don't have the TEEM tool and would rather not buy one if there is a good way to tell if it is tight enough.
Peugeot 106 - Peugeot TUD5 1.5 Diesel Smokes/Starts hard -
I have the same engine which was missing the injector pump. I have acquired an automotive pump and fitted it but where the shut off solenoid is on the original pump (Lucas) this one (also Lucas) has a heavy steel plate cover. Does this pump use some other method for shut off? Thx,