Hello all
I'm intending to fit a towbar to a Pegueot 405 estate tomorrow. It's not my car, so any blunders would be particularly embarassing. Advice welcomed, especially -
Will I have to drill holes, or just use the bumper mounts?
Is the electrical side tricky? (Single point only)
Is it true that an audible buzzer must be fitted to the indicator circuit; I'd rather leave that out.
Regards
Rob F
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Not fitted one to a 406, but I have helped fit quite a few in times past....
Instructions should make clear if hole drilling is required - however, IIRC all new bars now have to be type approved, and fit to mouting points on the vehicle, so maybe not. The instructions will make all clear (maybe!).
How easy / difficult the electrics are depends on how accesible the cables are - did a Xantia hatch once and had to get the feed for fogs from under the C piller trim. Done a BX as well where all the cables are the same colour. Tedious! I think I have heard somewhere that the Xantia has a plug for the towbar electrics, which would be very easy - maybe you should ask the Peugeot dealer, as this will make life much, much easier!
Unfortunately, yes an audible indicator buzzer must be fitted. It will come with a standard wiring kit, and is easy to fit (just requires an extra earth).
Richard
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Towbars come in different calibres depending on what you want to tow.
I watched someone fitting one to, I think, an Escort, and it just bolted through the boot pan. It sagged if you stood on it, and clearly was intended for towing a very light trailer only.It has probably broken off by now.
The one I fitted to my Volvo is a massive structure of angle irons and brackets, and bolts on to the bumper attachment points on the chassis. It has pulled a couple of tons in its time, been used to winch the car backwards up a recovery vehicle, and would take the weight of the car if used as a jacking point.
Wiring is quite easy. Just identify the right wires to the bulbs, and tap in using one of those crimp on connectors.
I don't believe anyone ever checks for buzzers. Fit it if you have to, then pull the wire off.
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"I don't believe anyone ever checks for buzzers. Fit it if you have to, then pull the wire off."
Why?
I find the buzzer invaluable for telling me whether the indicators on the caravan are working.
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As I understand it, a buzzer is not required if a repeater light is fitted instead (had this on my first XM).
Or the buzzer can either be used to indicate that everything is working correctly or it can be used only to indicate a fault.
HTH
Terry
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Wiring is quite easy. Just identify the right wires to the bulbs, and tap in using one of those crimp on connectors.
If you're refering to those "scotch lock" connectors, expect intermitant connections. Handy for quick connections but notorious for electrical breakdown over time. Nothing beats actually cutting and rejoining the wires. Preferably soldered.
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Well yes, I can see a point to the buzzer, but you have to do a visual check on the other lights before setting off anyway. You can tell immediately if a trailer indicator bulb has gone because the flashing rate changes.
If Scotchlocks are those blue things that you crimp and snap shut, I have always found them totally reliable. The only dodgy connections I have ever had with wiring have been inside the connector on the back of the car. This always seems to corrode and the wires come loose, because of its vulnerable position. The same with the 'male' (are we still allowed to say that?) connector if you leave it lying in the grass instead of hooking up out of the way.
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>>You can tell immediately if a trailerindicator bulb has gone because the flashing rate changes.
Don't think this is true. How would the flasher unit distinguish between a blown bulb and not having the trailer attached to the car? It's a legal requirement to have a visible or audible indication that the trailer flashers are working. Given that the beepers are so easy to fit, I can't imagine why anyone would want to break this law and risk problems if stopped by police.
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>>You can tell immediately if a trailer >> indicator bulb has gone because the flashing rate changes. Don't think this is true. How would the flasher unit distinguish between a blown bulb and not having the trailer attached to the car?
Works for me Keith. When I plug the trailer socket in. the lights flash at a slightly different rate. If the plug becomes disconnected, or a bulb fails, the flashing rate reverts to normal. The rate is within the prescribed range, but simply perceptibly different.
I wasn't saying I agreed with disconnecting the buzzer, just that for someone who did find it irritating it wouldn't be very difficult to disable it.
Cars have enough irritating buzzers. I had a Volvo with a buzzer to tell me the door was open. Disconnected it pdq.
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When I plug the trailer socket in. the lights flash at a slightly different rate.
Never noticed this Cliff on the 5 cars with which I have towed. But it's logical that the different load should affect the flashing rate. Perhaps it depends on the car/flasher unit or perhaps I'm just not very observant.
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If you're refering to those "scotch lock" connectors, expect intermitant connections.
Horrible bodge those things. I remember seeing on a classic bike forum, the following guide to purchasing: "Work out the market rate for the bike, then go round it and subtract five pounds for each scotchlok connector and cable tie you find."
They work most of the time, but are horrifically vulnerable to damp.
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Really testing my memory here... I fitted one to my 405 well over 10 years ago, it's not a difficult DIY job. This one bolted through the floor pan, as I recall 2 existing grommeted holes and two I had to drill. Not a big deal drilling through the boot, it just feels like it. Remember to start with a smaller bit first, and use some sealer (use any silicone you have) around the bolts/holes.
The electrics are pretty straightforward, all you are doing really is piggybacking the existing wiring - you could do it with no instructions and common sense. The buzzer is easy too, only 3 wires and you can tuck it/tape it somewhere in the boot.
Hope this helps.
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ive fitted two both to carltons strait forward really dont know about an estate .the only ptroblem i had was that i was supposed to take the bumper off as the rear plate bolted to the back of the car but i managed without taking the bumper off
wiring is strait forward. as long as u have instructions to follow
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Seeing as we are talking fitting towbars, careful with the new Mundano. You HAVE to follow the Ford instructions. Its no good wiring it up to suit your old van as it will screw up the Intelligent Charging System..
You have been warned!!!!!
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Oh! And look out for new (post 2000 I think) additonal earth requirement on the 12S socket or the fridge won't work!
Terry
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Anybody else find that the normal earthing arrangements on the 7 pin road lights socket is inadequate, so that e.g. the front markers and tail lights dim in time to the indicators or brakes?
I seems daft that a single earth wire of the same diameter as the feeds has to carry the return load of everything else.
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Oh! And look out for new (post 2000 I think) additonal earth requirement on the 12S socket or the fridge won't work!
Terry,
Can you explain this a bit further please? Does it apply to post 2000 vans, cars, both or either. (I have a 2000 car but a 1993 van). Keep it simple though - I don't understand how electricity works!!
Thanks
PhilW
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Phil
Post-2000 vans. Actually, I find now it's 1999. Some of our local Club group got caught out this way when they up-graded their vans.
An excellent explanation is at
www.rccc.co.uk/towbar_electrics.htm
but basically, pin 7 (previously unused) needs to be connected to earth for the fridge independently of pin 3. Joining the 2 can cause a melt-down!
HTH
Terry
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The best site I've ever come across for this is in Hj's Faq's
www.rydertowing.co.uk/
Commercial site I must admit but its good and includes vehicle specific info which is good.
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Thanks
PhilW
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Totally off subject, and I'm probably missing something very obvious, but why when I "reply to this message" does my reply always come after the next message down??
PhilW
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because in this case PhilW I'd alreadt replied to the message. if you look at threaded view the hierarchy all becomes clear.
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The buzzer is very useful. One day on holiday SWMBO fitted the plug a bit half heartedly and the non-buzzing on one indicator was an immediate warning of problems.
The buzzer was a bit loud and so I muffled it with a bit of tape.
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Get onto Discount towing or Towsure;they will tell you what you have to do to fit one of their bars ie.remove bumper,drill anything and will also sell you exactly what you need for the electrical side.
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If you can, buy a tow-bar from a company that made tow-bars for the Vehicle Manufacturer Brink-Thule for example are premium grade products. The OEM tow-bar will use the factory fitted plug-in strong-points and usually the ground clearance will not be affected.
Aftermarket tow-bars often ignore the strong-points and do things their own way. Often a long bar will be fitted north-south underneath the spare wheel well which to be frank was never intended to carry that type of load. Ground clearance will be reduced and drilling will be required.
If one is fitting a tow-bar to a stop-gap car that is over ten years old ones choice may be highly limited. Typically used aftermarket or new aftermarket. These towbars are seldom laser cut. Instead the metal is punched and sheared. It is worth spending time fettling the sharp edges and corners using a flap disc in a grinderette as with this type the workmanship is often rough and ready.
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Having just come in from fitting a tow bar to a Peugeot 307 Break ,I bought a geniune Peugeot towbar of ebay absolutely no differrent to any other as far as fitting points.The electrics are vehicle specific but I bought them seperately but needn´t have bothered because the car is not can bus I could have just wired into the rear lights and put a simple alarm in the indicator circuit as required by German TUV.
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The change-over point regarding Euro law is 1998 AFAIK. Pre 1999 cars can have tow-bars made from old bed frames if you like but 1999 onwards EU labelling comes in. Some of it is quite farcical for example the latest British two bolt tow-balls are exactly the same as the pre-1998 tow-balls apart from one thing. The new ones have a sticky label that says it is Type Approved. As yet I've not heard of anyone being fined because the sticky label has fallen off and in any case very few cars except Land-Rovers can pull the 3500 kilos that the tow-balls are rated for.
As to French cars and tow-bars, in the case of the Peugeot 405 there seems to be at least FOUR variants not including the rare 4x4. MK1 Saloon, MK1 Estate, Mk2 Saloon, MK2 Estate and it appears that they are all different! I was speaking to a bloke with a Renault Laguna on Sunday and he mentioned that he had also had trouble in fitting his Laguna tow-bar. Allegedly it was the one designed for the car yet some welding and re-shaping was required to make it fit! Of course the Laguna also comes in many flavours. Grrrr!
Anyone getting a tow-bar that fits properly first time is IMHO very lucky as these days you just can't get the right staff.
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Some of it is quite farcical for example the latest British two bolt tow-balls are exactly the same as the pre-1998 tow-balls apart from one thing. The new ones have a sticky label that says it is Type Approved.
Some years back I fitted a towbar to a Disco. At the time I had a choice of the latest "EU approved" thing with a fixed ball, or an old-model and rather nice dismountable and height-adjustable Witter unit lacking the EU sticker that was still available new.
The "unapproved" one was also half the price! Maybe there is an alternate reality in which I'm happy to pay 200 quid more for a poorer product with added fat-a***d bureaucracy.....
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Fitted a TowTrust tow bar to a 2003 Primera P12 last week.
The kit was very good and was fully inclusive of all items. However, removing the rusted on bumper trim and chassis items took a long time. Reassembly also took a long time as some of the fittings were difficult to reposition.
Wiring the electrics was also a nightmare as many of the wires all have the same colour coding.
The tow bar was easy to fit and assemble. The hard part is removing and replaing the existing trim.
Q.
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