.....Can anyone describe how to lock the crank/flywheel and diesel pump for correct timing. the haynes manual is useless i know this problem has been dealt with on here before but with conflicting advice, i just cant follow it.
This engine is not entirely straightforward to lock up because it has vernier adjustment for both cam timing and pump timing. Remove alternator belt and idler then remove the poly vee pulley from the crank (4 bolts). Remove all timing belt covers - one bolt is a challenge to get to - make sure it goes back.
The crankshaft locking hole is on the front of the cylinder block (unlike the XUD) at the flywheel end. I use a short M6 stud with a "nose" ground on it. It doesn't need to be threaded, but it needs the end relieving to enter the hole in the flywheel. The location is hard to find, but the pin goes into the flywheel (so parallel to the crank) very near the front face of the block. There is a largish hole in the backplate nearby which helps to locate it but the actual hole you want is fairly well hidden and insignificant looking - about half way up the block.
Push the car in top gear until the flywheel pin enters its hole. Now observe the camshaft and injection pump hubs (not wheels) and see if the locating holes line up. If not, unpeg and rotate the crank one revolution. From memory, the camshaft takes a longish M8 bolt (borrow one from the alternator belt idler bracket) and the injection pump takes a 6 mm drill shank.
If you are changing the timing belt on this car, make absolutely sure you understand the function of the camwheel and injection pump wheel adjustments (3 bolts on each wheel), both for setting and for tensioning the belt. Don't "mark and pray" with this engine - it all lines up beautifully if you get it right
There's not a lot more I can add. On any 4 stroke engine the camshaft and pump rotate at half engine speed - hence the need to get the right TDC.
The injection pump hub has a slot in it to take a 6 mm pin (I use a drill shank) which, when everything is lined up will go through the slot and into a hole on the pump housing. This sets the static injection timing. Likewise, the camshaft hub has a slot to take an M8 bolt which, when all is lined up will pass through the slot and screw into a tapped hole in the cylinder head - put there for that purpose. The camshaft and pump wheels can move independently of their hubs which is why there are 3 bolts on each. This excellent arrangement allows the timing for each shaft to be set precisely and also allows the belt to be tensioned without any locked-in torque from the camshaft or pump.
Haynes explaines it fairly well, but if you're not sure be very careful. Diesel engines are intolerant of mistakes.
Thanks for all your advice guys. I will attempt it later. It all seems fairly straight forward now.....even for me!!! Point taken about refilling the coolant...so many bleed screws. I will refill the system using a "header tank" (a coke bottle cut in half with some ptfe or similar tape around the neck of the bottle to provide an airtight seal around the expansion tank) then bleed the air out as per haynes manual. Thanks again guys will post and let you know how i got on. Fingers crossed!!!
I think you are mixing up the engines - it's the 1.4 litre aluminium engine which needs a header tank to bleed it - the 1.5 is in fact quite straightforward.
There is one (only) coolant bleed screw above the engine mount on the driver's side (RHD) in the make-up pipe from the header tank. As there is are degas pipes from the head and from the radiator and the heater matrix is lower than the header tank, the system is practically self venting.
Fill the system and vent the bleed screw. Start the engine and get it hot, ensuring that the heater pipes are both hot and that the radiator heats when the thermostat opens. Stop the engine and check that the system in under pressure (the caps get blocked sometimes). With the engine stopeed and the system pressurised, open the bleed screw carefully until liquid with no bubbles emerges. Allow engine to cool and check level.
PSA learned from their mistakes - the 1.5 engine cooling system is easy to work on. It's a pity the radiators are such rubbish...
I had a Metro with this engine. The car rotted and the suspension went bang on the way to look at a 405 but the engine was great, always started and brilliant on fuel. I had the local main dealer do the cambelt on it, it cost just over £150 about 6 years ago.