My brake warning lamp does not seem to work. The handbrake light works so it is not the bulb. My dads also has the same problem.
If I remove the brake fluid cap the light should come on shouldn't it? What do I need to short on the connector to test if it is the cap? I can get one for £7 of ebay but don't want to waste money till I have tested it.
Thanks.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 01/12/2008 at 00:53
|
Should be a button on top of the reservoir, push to test.
|
|
Thanks :) I am right in thinking this is a common problem then if it has a self test button? How do they work?
|
A float; a disc of copper and a divided plate that the disc sits on when low.
Why should it come on if the fluid is correct? Normally quite reliable.
|
|
It shouldn't come on. But it dosn't seem to work anyway, at least if it I take the cap off to simulate low fluid the bulb dosn't come on. So if I had a leak I may not know about it till its too late.
|
But does it come on when you press it? It's damped.
You can pop the top off and check.
|
I suffered partial brake failure on a Sierra due to the combination of a severe fluid leak, and the warning light float getting stuck in its little tube. A leak (traced to a rear wheel cylinder) had caused the level to drop to zero in the reservoir within a week (fluid level checked 6 days before and was fine). I knew nothing about it until exiting a slip road off the A34 near Oxford at 70 mph and having the pedal go to the floor.
It was nearly 15 years ago, and still one of the top 3 underpant soiling moments in my driving career.
Cheers
DP
|
Thanks DP.
It is that scenerio which is why I want to ensure this is working properly and get it fixed if not. As I only do low speed city drivng a warning light should be enough to allow me to pull in safely and investigate the problem if I were to loose hydraudlic preasure.
|
Hi Rattle,
Even on your current car you have a split braking system - which means that if there is a catastrophic failure of a brake cylinder which empties the master cyclinder, then still half the braking system will still work. The master cyclinder reservoir is split so that both systems are fed fluid separately. If you lose all the fluid in one circuit, you still have the other half to fall back on - which is sufficient to stop you on that nasty A34 sliproad (I know the one - I can see it from my house).
If you are that worried about the reservoir cap then the best thing is to change it - at least you will have worry free motoring!!
Hope this heps
|
|
|
|
Without (or even with!) regular brake fluid changes, these switches can easily get gunged up with a grey brake fluid/water emulsion.
Try swilling it out in methylated spirits.
|
|
Is there a danger of air getting into the system if I leave the cap of for a while?
|
|
The valves are availble separately from the cap.
|
|
|
Is there a danger of air getting into the system
No, only if you start undoing nuts and bolts may you allow air in.
Probably not a good idea to drive without it, fluid will slosh over the engine bay.
Leave it to dry out for an hour or two before putting back on.
|
Thanks. Annoyingly I can't find the part on ebay now the auction must have ended ;(. I will try cleaning it out to see if it makes any difference.
To confirm:-
Pressing the button will confirm that the electrics side of it is working
Taking the cap off will confirm if the switch is working
?
|
|
|
|
|
|
