Well, it had to happen eventually - the 214 has failed its MOT and dont think its worth repairing.
We have had it for 7 years, done 80,000 reliable miles and its just ticked over 140,000 as well, however time and miles are taking its toll.
It has failed on:
1) Emissions 6 times higher than it should on all readings - ticking noise/misfire on cylinder 2 on tickover and popping exhaust - looks like it might be a burnt exhaust valve?
2) two front shock absorbers
3) two front tyres
4) track rod end
5) corroded brake pipes - most were done last year so cant be much - I think its where it goes to the calipers.
Any ideas of cost for that little lot (tyres aside)?
I think the emissions are the key to getting the rest done. If its a valve, can it be done with the head in situ??
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Almost certainly beyond economic repair. A compression test might tell you quite a bit about the condition of the engine - any deficiencies here means scrapping the vehicle.
When I was a poor student without a compression tester I devised my own - not suitable for people who can't work out how to do it safely. Find a fairly steep, constant gradient slope. With the engine off, put the car in gear and let it roll down the slope slowly overcoming each engine compression - choose a ratio to suit the engine and the slope. A bad compression will be immediately obvious in the way that the car fails to hesitate at the critical point.
In the days of the lousy British vehicles on which I had to apply this test, the trick was to sit in the vehicle and stop it just as the bad point was reached. Removal of the distributor cap would show the rotor arm "pointing" to the defective cylinder. You can't do that nowadays...
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bad point was reached. Removal of the distributor cap would show the rotor arm "pointing" to the defective cylinder. You can't do that nowadays...
Except on a late 90s K-series ?!
Most of that lot sound repairable but the popping exhaust inevitably means a misfire and, assuming it's a simple HT ignition problem, contamination of catalyst and lambda sensor.
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>>Most of that lot sound repairable but the popping exhaust inevitably means a misfire >>and, assuming it's a simple HT ignition problem, contamination of catalyst and >>lambda sensor.
I fear the misfire is mechanical. Its hard to describe as its not a full misfire - only slightly and goes away with 100 revs or so above tickover. Doesnt do it from cold as it revs higher. There is also a ticking noise at the same time as the exhaust pops. Its got reasonably new leads and plugs as well.
Can exhaust valves be changed quite easily if that is what it turns out to be?
bad point was reached. Removal of the distributor cap would show the rotor arm "pointing" to the defective cylinder.
Its cylinder 2 thats no good - will do a compression test tomorrow as I have a tester somewhere in the garage.
If it can be repaired fairly easily and less than £200 or so then its worth doing as its in very good condition and I dont want to take out more car finance until I have paid my Audi off next spring.
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As said; any misfire will flood the oxygen sensor with oxygen and make the ECU think it's running lean - which it will then try and correct.....
A compression test is next.
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