Drive a few examples - they are very variable in build quality.
On my MGF, the bodyshell and gearbox were bigger problems than the headgasket.
The (optional) VVC mechanism can also be expensive to fix.
Check the coolant system very carefully - including the underfloor pipes and the radiator.
Be very wary of any modifications.
Check the hood and mechanism - it should be watertight.
The MGF has hydrolastic suspension, which some prefer (and others don't)
I know of 10 year old MGFs which are still in excellent condition and have not required any work apart from normal service - but these cars are not normally put up for sale.
Do check out the MX-5 for comparison.
And lastly, if you do buy one - join the MGs on track group and have some fun with it.
|
|
My R-reg MGtf had some minor teething problems in the first month or two, involving a new hood, new headlights, new aircon and two new windscreens. The fuel filler hose was fitted twisted so would only accepted a trickle. The car soon settled down however and took me on a blameless 2000-mile trip on the Continent and the new roof was the only one on my 5 MGs that did not leak. For me, the MX5 is simple too small, especially about the predal box.
|
|
Make that "simply" and "pedal". My excuse is that I've had a hard day's car testing and negotiating but came home empty-handed.
|
|
|
I would be wary asking about buying an MG / Rover on this forum, as you can get some fairly vitriolic responses from the anti-Rover brigade.
I don't know much about the MGF but have recently purchased a ZT (can't really comment on the car, as I only had it 2 hours before having an accident, and it's still being repaired - but that's the subject of another thread).
One of my neighbours has had a BRG R-reg MGF since new, and I must say it still looks good.
I would suggest you have a look on the mg-rover forum, as there is a section there specifically for MGF/MGTF. I'm sure there are also other forum(a?) for this car.
Not sure how common the head gasket problem is. But, personally, I decided to avoid the 1.8 in the ZT because of concerns over this issue, and instead went for the 2.5 V6 (despite the heavier petrol costs) which I think suits what is admittedly a heavy car much better.
From reading the mg-rover forum, there may be uprated gaskets which you can fit - but I don't know if this applies to the MGF. I'm sure you'd get an answer on the mg-rover forum.
I would also check out the parts supply situation - don't know how much of an issue this might be with the MGF.
At the end of the day, there is more of a risk in buying an MG than other cars, and you need to make sure that is factored into the price you pay, and be sure you can afford to lose your initial investment if it all goes wrong!.
|
|
|
If these are minor teething problems in 2 month's ownership of a new car, what would you regard as major problems?
"My R-reg MGtf had some minor teething problems in the first month or two, involving a new hood, new headlights, new aircon and two new windscreens"
Did the windscreens crack or pop put due to body shell flexing? Lucky it was under warranty, that looks like £2000+ in anybody's language
|
>>> would you regard as major problems?> Did the windscreens crack or pop put due to body shell flexing? Lucky it was under warranty that looks like £2000+ in anybody's language
I wrote ironically. The first screen was some how crooked in the frame. The second one was down to a fitter replacing the wipers in such a way that they scratched the new screen. The stitching was wrong on the hood. The headlights fogged up internally. I don't know what was wrong with the aircon except that it didn't work.
All the problems occurred under the miserly 1-year warranty. My car was supplied in the month on the tyres so may have been hurried through. As I mentioned on the forum before, someone involved in designing the car told be the company grossly under-estimated demand and corners were evidently cut to meet it. I was surprised about the market forecast as I would have thought pent-up demand was bound to be great.
The car was a very nice ride, once I got used to the rather high seat. I thought the gearstick look ridiculous, stuck up in the air as it was, and had 2" cut off the top and this also improved the throw.
|
My apologies Bintang - I am not too hot at spotting irony!
|
I have recently bought a TF 160 and the only buying advice I would give is be picky and dont always go for the cheapest one - it can easily cost more in the long run.
You will be better buying private where you can talk to the owner and guage what kind of interest they have in the car - is it a hobby? or a town commute car?
I looked at more than 20 before choosing mine, including some later MGF's. Here is a list of things I was looking for:
- Check for rust around side air vents and front wings (fairly rare but not cheap to fix - usually stone chips not treated)
- Check coolant level and colour - should be orange (or possibly blue if the cheaper stuff is used) and up to the seam on the tank - if its above expect its just been filled up and its loosing coolant (the cap acts as a pressure release and if its over filled it will just vent the excess coolant out over a few hundred miles)
- A service history is vital - not for the engine as such as its fairly bullet proof in terms of missing oil changes etc, but dice with the cooling system and your heading for head gasket problems - coolant needs doing every 2-4 years depending on whats used. Water pumps should be changed with cambelt every 4 years for peace of mind and the coolant cap should be changed at each service.
- Check the tyres - cheap alternatives mess with the handling and make it uneasy to drive quicky - MGF/TFs are sensitive to tyre choice! They are not exactly cheap to replace so best having a good set on to start with.
- The VVC mechanisms on the VVC model can clatter a bit when cold as the oil has to travel a long way to get to them - its more of a feature than a problem, however if they dont quieten down they may need replacing - they are reliable units though so you would have to be unlucky to have any problems in that area.
Overall, if you pick one that has been looked after you shouldnt have too many worries. Yes the headgasket can go, however if its already gone and been repaired then you shouldnt have a problem with it again (especially if the MLS Landrover gasket has been fitted). If it does go, usually you will pay £500ish to get it fixed - thats with a cambelt change which on its own is around £250.
Be hard to get an MX5 for the same money as the MGF built the same year and if you go over the the MX5 forums you will see they are not as reliable as people make out - plus IMO they lack a certain character and interior is a bit cramped and dull.
|
if you go over the the MX5 forums you will see they are not as reliable as people make out - plus IMO they lack a certain character and interior is a bit cramped and dull.
With respect, all of this is in total contrast to my ownership experience of the MX-5, and those in the owners club that I knew of when we had ours. At the time, there was an issue with the early 6 speed cars suffering from clutch judder which Mazda were not handling particularly well, but other than that, there were no common mechanical faults, just isolated incidents put down to wear and tear or neglect.
Bear in mind the earliest MX-5's are the best part of 20 years old now, and no other type of car is so heavily represented by dodgy historied imports, so some issues are bound to crop up. A car with a good service history and given a modicum of care just won't give you any trouble unless you're the kind of person who gets struck by lightning on a regular basis. They can be driven hard all day every day, and as long as they're serviced on time, they just go on and on. 200,000 milers are about that still drive well.
I really cannot agree it lacks character, although many Japanese cars do. If it did, it wouldn't sell, as it certainly doesn't sell on performance, mile munching comfort or image, it's not particularly cheap new or used, and the 160 PS MG and the Toyota MR2 would urinate all over it in terms of sheer speed. It sells precisely because it's a fun driving experience, and it oozes character. At least IMO - I appreciate this is a personal thing.
I do however agree the interior is incredibly dull.
Cheers
DP
|
On a slightly side note:
There are Superchager / Turbo conversions of the MX5, circa 200 - 230 HP. I thought Mazda should tap into this market - would think they could sell a few, especially with something like an MPS engine that they could possibly use.
|
Buy one.
They're a superbly fun little car, great fun to drive, handle better than an MX-5, look better, they're more exciting and they have lots more character. In my opinion.
I've got a TF which is very similar in most respcts to the original F, despite what people suggest, parts are not actually much of an issue based on what I've seen so far.
The MGF has hydra-gas suspension which needs to be "pumped up" after a certain period of time, if the ones that you look at appear to ride too low or two high it is probably because it either hasn't been looked at for ages or has been pumped up by someone who doesn't know what they are doing.
The head gasket is indeed a big problem with these cars, if you've read my thread you will know that mine is currently laid up in Stockton awaiting repair for this, fortunately I took out a warranty which is going some way towards covering the cost. The gasket is impossible to check, it is either working, or it isn't. If it's working it is certainly not worth changing it, you shouldn't fix what isn't broke! However, if it does go, you need to replace it with the updated Land Rover head gasket as it is supposedly more reliable.
For further (surprisngly mostly unbiased) advice visit www.mg-rover.org
|
My sister owned an MX-5, then a VVC MGF. She liked both overall. Neither was in any way unreliable despite her rather enthusiastic driving.
She preferred the MGF for looks and felt the interior quality was better as the Mazda is very plasticky, circa 1985 - hers did have leather a wood trim mind you, plus the full chrome pack.
In my experience working at a Rover main dealer, the cars arent unreliable, but they require careful and correct maintainance to stay reliable and dont skimp on costs as it will bite you.
Back in 1998, only a few years after they were launched, I drove one with approaching 90k on the clock - it was well used but the owner loved it to bits and it went like a bomb with nothing other than routine servicing.
If buying used, the most important thing is to find a car with full and proper service history AND DONT buy a low mileage one - these are the dogs usually as the K-Series and electrics hate sitting around. Far better to buy one thats done app 10k a year up.
The best models, in my opinion anyway, are the Trophy 160, in blue and also the earlier Abingdon special edition in brooklands green with the big wheels - both are very nice and more exclusive than the run of the mill models and the Trophy, I have always maintained, is the best MGF ive ever driven and far more supple than the TF that followed.
|
|
|
|
