Rare? I had a tensioner go on our 97 1.9 Xantia at 85K miles, the belt having been changed at 73K. The guy at the Citroen specialist we used said they weren't uncommon and advised customers to change them with the belt for the sake of the extra £40 or so involved. I recall think the total bill was £170 which I was delighted to pay having had the car expire with the engine sounding like someone throwing on tin can full of marbles down the stairs - I'd been expecting a four figure bill.
It had given warning sounds starting a day or so before, with a deathly rattle for a couple of seconds on startup.
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"Rare?"
Learn something new every day :-)). 7 years of spending too much time on the net talking about mending Cits and Pugs, and 200k+ myself in XUDTs, and that's the first one I've heard of.
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maybe have been advised wrongly. Symptoms are-at idle a very tinny rattle, that goes away when you rev the engine or when your driving and the motor is under load.
Cheers
steveandsue
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An exhaust heatshield may also give those symptoms, but is it due for a cambelt anyway ?
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its done 128k last changed at 78k, so not yet. Maybe i'l just take it to a garage i dont mind spending £200 but not peugeot dealer prices. Thanks for your help cheers
steve
steveandsue
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No special tools required really. It's a bit of a PFD job though - the bolt down the back of the top cambelt cover that you can't see and is a different size to all the others is the work of some very twisted French designer!
Could you (or anyone else) give a bit more of a clue about where this bolt is?
Is it on the same side as all the other bolts on the top cambelt covers, or is it really on the back?
I'll be damned if I can find it..!
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i wrote the following for a 306 with the same engine, it's more or less the same on the 406.
the bolt on the back of the cambelt cover is 11mm it's about the same height as the bolt in the middle of the cover but actually round the back of the head about in line with the fuel line holder bolted on the left of the rocker cover
basically it goes something like this,
1, park car, handbrake on
2, loosen drivers side front wheel bolts,
3, crawl under car use 22mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt, it'll probably be quite tight, once undone nip it up again not to tight,
4, open bonnet,
5, jack drivers side of car up, put on axle stand
6, remove wheel
7, loosen and remove intercooler bolts, then intercooler
8, find 6mm allen key
9, behind the starter motor there is a hole in the gearbox housing, put the allen key in it, (may be easier to undo and remove the 3 starter motor bolts)
10, get a 22mm socket put it on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft bolt clockwise whilst at the same time pushing the allen key into the hole (easier with an assistant but can be done solo) keep turning until the allen key drops into the hole(you'll understand when you do it, may have to turn the engine for quite some time reasonably slowly),
11, thats the engine now on it's timing marks,
12, now put a trolley jack and block of wood under the sump and jack it up until it takes the weight of the engine,
13, remove the left hand side engine mount, basically move the fuel primer to one side, remove the rubber bung if there, then carefully undo the 4 5/8 size bolts and remove the top half of the mount (careful engine doesn't suddenly slip of jack and trap your hand),
14, now remove the 10mm bolts holding the front cambelt cover on, then do the same for the rear cover, except there is one bolt at the back of the cover which is 11mm,
15, now looking at both of the exposed pulleys you will 2 timing holes with a threaded insert behind, on the cam pulley it's at about 4 o clock and i think 2 o clock on the fuel pump, now find the 2 short bolts from the intercooler, they are the right size to fit in the timing holes,
16, now under the arch, remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and pull of the pulley,
17, now remove the lower cambelt cover, all 10mm bolts,
18, now look at the new belt tensioner and you'll see a square hole in it, find the same hole on the car, a short 3/8 socket extension will fit in there and you can then use a ratchet to apply or release the tension,
19, undo but don't remove the two bolts holding the tensioner, now use your ratchet to push the tensioner towards the windowscreen, whilst holding it there use your other hand to release the belt from behind the tensioner,
20, with the belt now loose remove it from round the rest of the components,
21, now replace the waterpump,
22, now replace both the tensioner and idler pulley, to do this you'll need to remove the rest of the metal engine mount, the bolts are quite obvious,
23, replace the belt in the same manner you removed it,
to tension the new belt pull the ratchet towards you then tighten the tensioner bolts at the same time,
24, with the tensioner tightened push the belt in the middle between the two pulleys you should have about half an inch of deflection if correct (check the old belt before removing to give you an idea),
25, now remove the two timing pins in the pulleys and the allen key,
screw the crankshaft pulley bolt into it's hole (leave the pulley off) if you keep screwing it in then the engine will turnover,
26, turn the engine over by hand at least 8 times, then put the timing pins back in as you did at the start, if you've done it all right it'll turn over with no issues
27, recheck the tension again,
28, if alls well then refit the lower cambelt cover,
29, refit the crankshaft pulley,
30, refit everything you've removed, torque all required bolts correctly (except crankshaft pulley which is done last)
31, remove the allen key (2 intercooler bolts will have already been done when fitting the covers and intercooler,
32, turn the engine over again by hand to check there's no rubbing on the cam covers or any other issues,
33, if alls well then top up the engine coolant as you'll have lost alot when doing the waterpump, bleed it properly,
34, put the road wheel back on, lower the car to the ground then torque up the crankshaft pulley bolt,
35, job done start her up then tidy up
think that covers the job, haven't done one for a couple of months so may have missed something but nothing major i don't think.
whilst doing it id replace the intercooler seal (dealer only bout £3) and the cam cover seal as they always leak and are easy done when the intercooler is off, make sure you don't overtighten it though as that's why most leak.
chris
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Thanks very much, very helpful.
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