The car is a 110 Hdi. I started my car and went to move, the car juddered then the engine light came on, it then went into limp mode and will not rev above 2800 rpm.
I have had the bottom crankshaft pulley and cambelt and pulleys changed a few months back, is this connected ? - Mod's assumption
The engine light wont go off sometimes it may flicker on and off but more on than anything and it sounds a bit rougher too,
has anyone any ideas ?
I jumped started the car on Sunday, would that have had any contribution towards it ?
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Can anyone translate that four-line sentence so as it makes sense?
I hope that's better, perhaps the OP will correct the assumptions I made if required. Also inserted some commas, full stops and question marks to make it look better - PU.
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PU
[A bit of punctuation does a whole lot more than just make it look better. You're kinder than I am; posts like that are an insult.]
The only sensible approach here is to get the fault-codes read first. HDi's are too complex for guesswork.
Jump-starting can often cause ECU problems on many cars and should be avoided if at all possible.
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Screwloose, having just purchased a new set of jump leads and used them last night (both cars have ECUs) could you please elaborate on 'Jump-starting can often cause ECU problems on many cars and should be avoided if at all possible.'
thanks.
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normd2
Most cars are now packed with ludicrously sensitive ECUs. 30-odd - most/all networked.
Body control modules are the worst; most have very complex wake-up sequences after power-down or they corrupt their own data - but any ECU can fail after jump-starting.
There's no safe way to use jump leads that doesn't cause swift voltage changes. French cars will still fail even after following the exact procedure [half a page long....]
Voltage spikes on disconnection cause even more carnage. My personal records are held jointly by a Merc S-class and a Range-Rover... £5700 each in ECU repairs.
Above all... When using jump-leads, make absolutely certain that they are on the right terminals and NEVER take them off until the car has run for a full three minutes.
Better still; never give, or receive a jump-start. [There are labels available to stick to your battery prohibiting such use. Some lease fleets use them.]
A flat battery should be connected to a constant-voltage smart charger and quietly recharged.
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i endorse what screwloose says and havent used jump leeds for nearly 10 years now,i use a battery pack but am very careful how i use it
my starter charger is now only used for old commercials or drip battery charging these days
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Right here we go
AA man did a test codes are
po190 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor
po200 Injector Circuit Open (but he cleared this fault and it didnt reappear)
also seems a bit more wobble when engine idling
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Fuel rail pressure sensor is in the bottom of the fuel rail with a 3-pin plug.
The sensors fail; [£150-ish] plug contacts work loose [modified plug available] and the wires to it chafe and break.
With that code active, it will stay in limp.
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Also im not sure when the fuel filter was changed can this have caused a problem, there is still a buzzing from the rear which seems to be the fuel pump this is just for a few seconds when i turn on the ignition
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A blocked filter will more usually bring up a fuel pressure regulation code [P1112] that a rail sensor code. Always change filter and housing as one.
The tank-pump priming at key-on is normal on a Bosch system - the Siemens system doesn't have one.
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Silly questions
If the timings out or cam belt has slipped can it cause the problem or erratice idle problem starting and fuel pressueas the cam belt was only changed 3 months ago
and does the fuel pressure sensor do anything or does it just tell me there is a pressure problem
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Timing faults will flag cam/crank sensor synchronicity codes.
The rail pressure sensor is a critical part of the HDi's operation.
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Can it be the rail pressure sensor causing these problems sorry if i ask so many questions just im panicking as the car is my lifeline and drive 60 miles to work each days it is £40 cheaper than going by train and saves me 2 hours travelling and it is nice to see my kids before they go to bed
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You have a rail pressure sensor code. What have you done to check it out?
There are no easy fixes on a common-rail.
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nothing yet going into dealers tomorrow fo diagnostics hope they will pick something up
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Ok!!!
Peugeot dealer just rang they said its a the fuel pressure sensor they think as thats what everything indicates towards "but" its £327 so told them couldnt get it done today as im sure i can get it done cheaper elsewhere.
Anyways what are your thoughts on this does that sound like a correct diagnosis
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That sounds like a £150 sensor, £38 modified loom, fitting, diagnostics and VAT.
Not sure that you could get it significantly cheaper elsewhere. Seeing as the sensor/loom is dealer-only and you'll be paying for their diagnostic time anyway; the difference is negligible.
Based on the code and the symptom; I'd have to concur that a sensor is the likely cause. They can see the live-data readings - I can't.
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Is the fuel pressor sensor the little red plug underneath the injector rail the sort of upside down injector
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That doesn't sound like it; see description above.
Do not mess with a common-rail unless you understand the risks.
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I was going to buy one from gsf and get a mechanic friend to fit it, but am confused as to where it is located the only big sensor is upside down under the rail looks like it prob needs a 24mm spanner
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The pressure sensor is indeed a large unit; 24/27mm sounds about right.
Pattern parts have an appalling record on HDi's. The ECU's are hyper-sensitive to response profiles and often refuse to work with sub-standard parts. Is this sensor the new type, with the modified plug and loom, or the obsolete type?
I'm also concerned about the fitting of parts without proper diagnostic procedures having been followed. However it is your choice.
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What do you mean when you say diagnostic procedures do you think i should get peugeot to look into it a bit more
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Forgot to ask would the fault codes have to be cleared after fitting or would disappear on their own
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Fault-codes are just the beginning of the road to finding a fault. They tell you what is putting the light on - nothing more.
In this case it's reported that P0190 was found [once.] That is a very general code for an unspecified [no sub-code] error with the rail-pressure signal CIRCUIT. Further examination of what the ECU is seeing can be done through use of live-data.
Then it's down to physical testing of the whole circuit to find the cause of the incorrect signal. This could be an excessive feed voltage, [5.00 volts exactly] or a poor earth; or the signal wiring could be chafing or cracked.
The plug could be damaged; or the pins could be corroded or loose. All these things have to be checked and proven before even a thought of changing components. Try taking short-cuts and these systems will turn and bite you - as hundreds of garages have found to [usually their customers'] cost.
While it would be hoped that the dealer's staff have carried out a professional diagnostic procedure; many rely on the availability of parts to "suck-it-and-see."
The ECU should accept the new sensor at key-on self-test; but the code[s] will remain.
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What make is the fuel pressure sensor and where would i find a part number and a place to buy an original and also the loom is it bosch
....????,,,,,," :;;;;;;:::::@@@@ - Some punctuation marks feel free to use these - no charge - PU,
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Any numbers would be on it. They may not be dealer or recognizable maker's part numbers. The modified loom section is dealer only.
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Touch wood "knock knock" replaced the fuel pressure sensor £180 got from pug in the end "no new wiring loom required on my car apparently peugeot say" disconnected battery and ecu to try and clear fault codes she now starts and is out of limp mode and seems to run like she used to.
Thanks for your advice screwloose.
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