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noticed over the months that pug owners are either anoraks , perfectionists , or just having a lot of probs with the said vehicles , im not knocking them cause im after a newer car myself , was thinking of a 106 ( brothers misses selling a low mileage on a 97 plate for 600 quid) what do i look for at an inspection?
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Same as buying any car, be it a 106 or a Porsche Cayenne. The main things to check are the service history i.e. has the car had oil and filter changes at the recommended intervals and if the cambelt has been changed when it should. The 106, like the 306, petrol or diesel, seem to be notorious for head gasket failures and corroded/leaking radiators. Therefore, it is essential that the radiator is carefully inspected for leaks and corrosion and that the engine starts and runs with no excessive smoke, no pressure in the cooling system when cold and that the engine doesn't overheat. Other than that, there isn't really too much to go wrong with the 106 as they are generally a cheap and cheerful bread and butter car, with little in the way of toys. They are also generally very cheap to run and insure and spare parts can be bought from breakers yards very cheaply as they have been around since the early 90's.
Martin
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fair post martin i agree
i would just add corrosion to the equation especially the back seams under the spare wheel and knocky driveshafts seem to be a favourite
on this year it should have a proper chipped key if it has the box in the tray area for finger pushing then get the code
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knocky driveshafts seem to be a favourite
Yep, went in a Saxo with the same, owner said she'd had it done a few times.
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Things that go wrong:
Bottom ball joints on front suspension: check by waggling wheel vertically when securely jacked up
Check ALL engine hoses.
Rust under boot floor (hidden by spare wheel) - can be BAD.
Leaks from gearbox where drivershafts exit (seals - cheap fix but pia)
Check restarts Ok - or immobiliser problem - see HJ guide (any restarting problems .. walk away)
Cam belt should be checked..
Front disks ridge easily.
Rear brake wheel cylinders leak (and lining detach from rear shoes - handbrake feels funny ). (Watch out 3 different types of wheel cylinder fitted.)
Missing spare
Head gaskets can weep oil - above alternator ( and ruin alternator eventually)
Alternator drive belt wears.. - easy replacement.
Rear exhaust box holes - may be bodged repair...
If you look at a diesel, check engine very carefully. They need careful and regular oil and fuel filter changes. If neglected £££s
Clutch usually OK so any funny clutch feeling/noises, run away.
Watch electrics... corrosion can cause problems. try everything electrical several times with engine running and all together... the combined load should find any problems..
Watch for leaks into front floor - heater matrix (rare) but if so run away as pia.
Engine antifreeze must be good, and NO rusty water. If there is, neglect and aluminium head = future problems. If the coolant looks dirty or any trace of oil, run away. ££££S
(plus as prior posters, radiator).
Watch for water drips when hot from water pump .
Reliable if well maintained. Lots neglected . plenty of choice. So be fussy. Lots more for sale.
Power sterring nice to have but not essential on 1.0.
madf
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Most things on old 106s are fixable. The two things that are not worth fixing are rust under the boot floor and worn out rear radius arm bearings for the trailing arms.
The diesel is the best of the bunch - avoid the 1.4 as it has an aluminium block and floppy wet cylinder liners. The iron block 1.5 is much better and is affordable now. The keypad immobiliser is a pain to use and a pile of trouble. The later transponder type sometimes fails if the reader coil around the ignition lock develops poor connections - cheap to fix.
For a cheap small car, the 106 is as good as any and better than most. Don't have an accident in it though. The Saxo is the same car.
659.
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I forgot to add:
The main body members (either side of engine) oto which the rear mounting of the front wishbone attach are sealed by a rubber/plastic grommet just behind the wishbone mounting. This occasionally corrodes under the plastic underseal and it all peels away and corrodes.. It's obvious to see but requires you to peer underneath from behind the front wheel on either side + torch.
Rare but check it.. if bad , car can be a writeoff.
And rear suspension cross tube - runs from one side to another can corrode and fail .. and rear suspension arm bearings can fail: wheels at funny angle. £££s job - effective write off on old car.
(basically neglect and /or hi miles.)
madf
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the price sounds good by the way milkyjoe
dont come a knockin if the car turns out shockin mind
caveat jumper stuff
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