I don't see anyone getting emotional, you came here asking for advice and people have given you that.
Have you thought, for example, what attitude your insurance might take if you were to be involved in an accident? Or are you intending to inform of this 'modification'?
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I see plenty of people clouding the issue with emotional, personal attacks.
That's a good point about a modification. To be legal that would need to be declared to the insurer. I am unaware of any law specifically saying "thou shan't disable an ABS system" though
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Grow up man. you suggested
'How about measuring the resistance of the sensors, then soldering each of the sensor wires together with a resistor to the same value then the ABS will be fooled into thinking there is a sensor there. Would that work?
NO, why , because the ECU reports the cars speed to the ABS ECU which now thinks it's moving with all four wheels locked so initially the ABS kicks in and unlocks the wheels only to learn that the wheels are not turning so it must be a fault, on with the light. Most the ABS ECU I've dealt with are triggered to be operation when all four wheels generate the first signs of rotation, which your will not do but what the ECU will make of it God only knows.
You are really out of the box on this tyre on engineering approach to cars and I for one will not be contibuting to your tread any further and I suggest other well versed tech's do the same. Regards Peter
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See, another overly emotional personal attack.
I accept that a fault would show, thank you for (part of) your reply, I did not dispute that a fault would show in this circumstance.
Thank you for not contributing further, I'd rather people like you kept quiet anyway, if you can't be civil.
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ABS pads may be different but for the vast majoriy of their working lives they act as normal pads on a car without ABS. I would suspect that the mechanism for balancing brake pressure front to rear is present on all cars irrespective of the presence of ABS or not. Removing the function of ABS just makes the car act like a non ABS car
If you really believe that statement; then you know absolutely nothing about the system that you're proposing to disable.
Knowingly using a vehicle with any defect in the original braking system is a criminal offence.
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If VOSA thought non-working ABS systems were so dangerous, then the MOT test would be more stringent than just testing the performance of the warning lamp, and only giving an advisory even if the the light works, but a large part of the system is missing.....
Having said that we have an intermittent ABS fault on our ZX that needs fixing - not looking forward to it though - expensive new sensor probably, followed by hours of aggro to get it changed over.... Oh joy!
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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Richard
if you are lucky it will be the typical rear Citroen fractured cable! Find the break, cut the lead short, resolder! 5 minutes to do the job, 5 days to find the location of the problem.
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pmh (was peter)
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Intermittent ABS faults on PSA stuff, its always worth checking the earths from the instrument cluster, had this on a 405 with the Bosch 2E ABS system, never stored a fault code for it either.
Found the fault by accident one day & the earth point in question was hidden behind a bit of trim on the passenger side of the car behind the dash, cleaned the earth up & the ABS worked perfectly after that.
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Asking for advice on disconnecting ABS on one thread, asking for advice on cleaning oil off engine on another...you aren't thinking of selling a car by any chance?
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Awful lot of emotion on this thread, and a few incorrct facts thrown in for good measure too.
The abs system has to maintain normal braking ability in the event of its failure, hence pressure limiting to rear wheels.
Brake pads for abs and non abs cars are the same material. if in doubt consult Ferodo, delphi, mintex, QH etc etc etc who all supply the same pad for the same car, sometimes fitted with abs sometimes without.
The mot test on abs is that thorough it tests that the warning light lights and extinguishes in the correct manner; not that the system is working or not ! And every mot tester knows of some attempts to confuse the tester on this aspect I would suggest.
Having said all that. The abs is there for your (and mine) safety. please dont tamper with it.
Normal fault on a daewoo is faulty wheel sensors; but not many garages have equipment that can hook up and detect it. But there are ways of home diagnosis, time consuming though.
Why not try a souple of seconhand sensors from a scrapyard donor and work on trying to fit them?
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>Why not try a souple of seconhand sensors from a scrapyard donor and work on trying to fit them?
Probably the best route to take. But not looking forward to the bolt extractions, and once that work has begun it will have to be fixed before it's next MOT, whereas at this moment in time it could scrape through a test as the fault only lights up after a few hundred yards of driving, so will most probably not occur in MOT.
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Stubborn bolt extraction is always hard and awkward.
Allow enough time, arm your self with releasing oil, chisels, punches, drifts, old sockets; maybe invest in a set of "irwin vise grips" type tools. Or even weld a good bolt/nut to the old bolt and try undoing that?
try hammering an old socket onto a chewed up head and undoing it a little? Use releasing oil as soon as any movement is made etc and keep working it back and forthe until it undoes.
Try using pucnhes, chisels etc to try and tap the bolt head around to undo etc.
Generally this is what sets experienced mechanics apart from diyers the ability to undo stuboorn/broken fixings. But got to be worth a try? Just leave yourself enough time and if it doesnt get undone then it is no worse than when you started?
Good luck anyway.
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Well done yorkiebar - some useful advice that will help horatio fix the problem correctly.
Horatio - you have my sympathy. There is a small element in the Backroom that just love to moralise. They could easily have made their point politely, but chose not to.
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yorkiebar
Hate to disagree; but if you check any pad or disc application catalogue; you will see that items, for any car fitted with either system, are often marked "WithABS/No ABS" and are very different.
ABS often means that physically bigger brakes can be fitted without the risk of over-braking. I stand by my comments that it's foolish to attempt any bodged repairs on a braking system.
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So according to you then the difference (if any) is in pad size not material.
I stand by my comment that hypothetically if an ABS system was to be disabled, the last thing that would make any difference is the size and material of the pads. Because no one except peole who seriously can't drive goes around using their ABS function every time they press the brake pedal or drive the car.
in all the years I drove cars with ABS I only skidded - activated the ABS once or twice, the rest of the time the brakes functioned as "normal"/non ABS brakes....i.e. normal everyday driving.
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Can't you get a bracket from a scrapyard before you dismantle your own car and repair the system properly?
All the cars fitted with abs I've ever seen have no load compensation or pressure reducers fitted to the rear, they rely on the abs system for this.
The car will be a death trap if modified in the manner you propose.
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All the cars fitted with abs I've ever seen have no load compensation or pressure reducers fitted to the rear, they rely on the abs system for this.
The Mondeo has them, and they work in a conventional way, but they're built into the outlet ports of the ABS unit.
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Dont botch the ABS. Repair it to the level at which it was supplied using suitable parts. If these are brackets and they come from a scrappie it does not really matter.
Disabling the ABS is very serious. Previous posts about pressure limit on rears are quite correct. Non ABS car has a valve to limit pressure to rear. This is not present on ABS vehicles. If your ABS is not working and you brake hard, the car will pitch forward. Because of this the rears will lock before the fronts and it is more than likely that the back of the car will overtake the front. This is called a spin and will take you by surprise.
ABS systems include a thing called EBD (electronic brake distribution). This is a feature that performs the same role as the valve in non abs cars. Warning lamps are there to tell you that thinhs are not working. Ignore an engine lamp and fair enough you will screw your engine. Ignore a brake / abs lamp and you will crash into poeple or things.
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ABS systems include a thing called EBD (electronic brake distribution).
Early ABS systems didn't. In fact EBD is only something fairly recently introduced. Less than 5 years at a guess on mainstream cars.
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A lot of cars with ABS fitted still have a rear compensating valve in the circuit, it depends on the ABS system in question.
Some have it on the rear suspension exactly like a non ABS car & some rear drum braked cars have them as part of the rear wheel cylinder, you really need to know exactly what ABS system your dealing with first.
If the car has EBD fitted then it wont have a rear compensating valve because the ABS hydraulic modulator does that job electronically.
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Can I please put everyone at ease, I was only asking. After receiving the information in the thread (excluding the moralising comments which help no-one) I will not be modifying the ABS, I will when the time comes be looking at getting 'new' brackets/sensors from a scrap car and seeing if it fixes the fault.
Can we let this one die please.
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