Did a service on my sister's recently acquired Ford Ka this morning. It's a tidy 1998 example with 82k on the clock.
Anyhow, it was all going swimmingly until it came to the spark plugs. The plug hexes were heavily corroded, and the plug wells filled with rust and other debris. I cleared out the debris and filled the plug wells up with WD40, retiring for coffee and a spot of lunch while it absorbed.
I returned an hour or so later and attempted to remove no1 plug. I decided only to use a standard ratchet and extension to avoid applying too much force. Applying maybe half the force I was capable of exerting with the ratchet, there was a crunching sound. I was horrified to see the plug had sheared in half. The hex part and the upper ceramic insulator and HT terminal were in the socket, and the thread still in the head. It's sheared completely flush meaning there is nothing at all to grip to remove the plug.
I've taken it as read that now the head has to come off, but does anyone have any tips for removing this plug? I've read all kinds of stories regarding hot water and banging screwdrivers into what's left, but I don't want to waste time on futile exercises. We started prepping for removing the head and ran out of daylight, and plan to get a fresh start tomorrow, but if there is a way of removing this with the head in-situ, or any advice on the best / easiest way to sort this, I would be very grateful to hear it.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Cheers
DP
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Have you got or can you access a mig welder?
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I would take it straight to an engineering shop,nothing the DIY mechanic can do with this one IMO,it will possibly need helicoiling anyway.Otherwise find a S/H head.
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Can't see you would get enogh weld on it for that to work OM,it wouldn't come out with the rest of the plug attached.that's what I meant about taking it to a pro straight away,instead of messing about.
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ive done loads like this, it harks back to mk3 festas,bad design and poor maintainance
beg borrow or steal some square bar (the stuff ornamental fences are made of) carefully hammer it into the plug hole as far as you dare but at least 1/2 inch and then mig the bar to the whats left of the plug,bollies of steel cant get into the combustion chamber and the heat undoes the plug to head ,its then either mole grips or a socket on the bar and screw it out.
I have never ever taken a head off for this reason on a fiesta/ka
make sure no bollies of clag can fall into combustion chamber when the plug is out,a wire brush is ideal for this but be quick so all the metal doesnt cool down.
i use this method for removing stubburn locking wheel nuts where no kety came with the car (not the easy ones where the left hand socket with the thread would work)
ok try it sierraman its something you learn when in the breach
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Thanks for the prompt replies guys.
No access to a mig welder unfortunately. :-(
Looks like it's an engineering shop job then. As I suspected, but always worth a try.
Thanks again for the replies!
Cheers
DP
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DP,
A quick forum search found the following.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=11605
plus a few more posts as well.
That aside, you would have been better off using plusgas and not wd40.
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Thanks Dave.
To be honest, considering the amount of force I had on it when it broke, I can't see it would have come out even with Plusgas. I genuinely wasn't applying much torque at all when it let go. It looks like the plug has literally rotted into the head from what I can see.
It's odd because the rest of the car seems well maintained. The valve clearances were spot on, the inside of the rocker box, rockers and valve springs completely free of cack and sludge, and all the other fluids look clean and with correct levels. For some reason though it looks like these plugs have been in the car since it was built.
Cheers
DP
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When you finally put your new plugs in,a smear of copper grease on the threads is recommended.
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Dont put copper grease on the plugs thread this will make the plugs over tighten when you tighten them up (if that makes sense) The best way to avoid these plugs getting seized in the head is to remove and refit them at least once a year.
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hi mate no need to take cylinder head off i take it you have sheared thread off plug,all you need to do is turn engine over this will remove ceramic part of plug,this will leave a hole in centre of plug get a set of dormer easi outs not the cheap easiouts that have a screw thread on, insert the correct size in middle of plug,warm thread of plug using a blow lamp then unscrew it it will be tight,but trust me it will come out,once out turn engine over to claer any debris out of cylinder bore then replace with new plug--job done this will work i have done quite a few,let me know how you get on.
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DP
Buy a cheap 1/2" drive Torx 55 key and hammer it into the broken section of the plug. Sounds silly; it should expand the shell and make it worse - but it does work. You could also try a shot of pipe freezing spray [from a plumbers merchant.]
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ask ford dealer for price to change spark plug set before you start !!!
maybe be cheaper than head off job!!!!
iirc aprox £100 ?
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whip that head off !!! for £25.00 you can get a gasket kit and do those much needed valve stem oil seal's as well!! once the head is off drill out the plug i did this with a mates car, re-tap the thread taps available from draper (cheap), it might need a skim? but this is a easy diy have a go?? good luck.
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Other than the plugs,this is where you say thanks to FORD for a lo-tec motor.
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Thanks everyone for the replies.
A succcessful day - the car is now running, albeit with one new plug and three old ones.
The ceramic withstood about 2 minutes of chipping before falling apart and dropping, along with the centre electrode into the cylinder. We retrieved the electrode with a magnet (no1 was luckily at or close to TDC), and the ceramic (later on) with a vacuum cleaner complete with a makeshift attachment from an old radiator top hose. This left just the metal parts (part of the taper "seat" and the thread) still stuck in the hole.
Taking thickness and thread diameter guides from a new spark plug, we then began drilling the remnants out. Because of the hole left by the ceramic part, this was a good guide for the drill bit, meaning drilling straight wasn't too difficult. We carefully drilled through to the cylinder, increasing bit size by 0.5mm each time until we got as close as we dared to what we knew was the diameter of the thread. We then folded the seat part over as much as possible, soaked it all in release fluid and left it to soak.
Coming back a bit later, we smacked a screwdriver into the hole until it was in tight, put a pair of molegrips on the screwdriver shaft, and prayed. With a crack, the thread shifted, and then unscrewed complete with just finger and thunb pressure. The threads in the head were completely undamaged.
A thorough clean out with a magnet and aforementioned vacuum attachment, screwed the new plug in, and held breath as it took the 17Nm and remained tight. Reconnected everything, turned the key and she fired up on all four and sounded fine.
Since done 20 miles in the car and it's running lovely.
Thanks all! Next time someone asks me to change a set of plugs on one of these engines, I politely decline!!
Thanks again!
DP
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