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Hello,
I have Photoshop CS on my laptop 7.0 on my old desktop that the kids use however my new PC came with trial version of Corel Paintshop Pro X.
I have really not had time to get to know Paintshop Pro, I dont find it as user friendly as Photoshop though I guess it is what you are used to, however it has one or two good features, for instance the crop function is an improvement over Photoshop. The question is should I pay for a license for Paintshop Pro X (about £70) or put my version of Photoshop 7.0 on the new PC, the kids dont need it afterall.
Any one used both extensively?
Regards.
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Sorry, I mean "I have Photoshop CS on my laptop AND 7.0 on my old desktop that the kids use, however .........".
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I've just jumped ship from Paintshop to Photoshop. PhotoS includes the album functionality that is extra in PainstS and appears to be easier to use.
I got fed up of the minor errors in PaintS which need a reinstall, plus there was an "exploitation" release (ie stuff all new in it) just before Jasc was bought by Corel then another just after.
Crop is better is PhotoS - I'm using Elements 4.0.
The Gadget Show declared PaintS as diffciult to use and I'd go with that.
And you can buy licences for either much cheaper than £70 - just look on Amazon.
JH
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I have an earlier version of PSP, the last one when it was JASC. It does all I want and more. I dont want or like stuff that tries to organise or albumise my stuff.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Cheddar, sorry, had to dash, Dr Who was on. I've used Paint Shop Photo Album and PSP for some years. They're both good products but PSP can be a bit of a pain to use. Support from JASC was always good, not quite so sure now it's Corel. I can't help feeling though that I shouldn't have needed support, the bugs shouldn't have been there. Typically, a problem would be fixed by a reinstall plus running a program to clear out every last remnant.
I'm using PSP 8. I wasn't too happy when there was a release (9?)just before JASC sold out to Corel and then, within a few months, another release (X, or 10 to you and me). I tried 9, there wasn't much in it that was new and certainly not worth the price to me. It felt like both companies were trying to get as much as they could out of their customers. Point being, I'm not up to date.
A couple of weeks ago I wanted to compare 2 photos side by side in PSPA - it wouldn't do it. Over to PSP to edit a photo, the zoom toolbar had undocked itself. I don't open software up so I can spend the evening fixing it and I could see that this was leading to a typical uninstall / reinstall. It's a shame, they're basically VERY good products, but they've got to be more reliable and I'm not paying for 2 upgrades a year.
Have you thought of trying Pixela from Google?
JH
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>>Have you thought of trying Pixela from Google?>>
I think you might mean Picassa2...
It's an excellent free utility but a little basic for serious photo editing work. See:
picasa.google.co.uk/
Many people are happy with Serif products - some of the older versions can be obtained for nothing or very little.
Serif can be a pest sometimes trying to sell you the latest and greatest over the phone (keep dropping the price), but a firm No is always respected.
See:
www.freeserifsoftware.com/
for some of the free software and www.serif.com/ for the latest.
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To be honest Paint Shop Pro is the only programme that compares with full Photoshop, OK Adobe's own Elements has one or two nice unique (until CS2) features such as auto anti red eye though it lacks the full file handling capabilities, profiling etc etc.
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My Windows ME laptop used to have a screensaver that showed fish swimming around as though in some tropical seascape accompanied by sounds of bubbles and surf. I won't bore you with the details but it's gone and I would like it back. Microsoft want to charge me for it (or something similar) and others found on the web either hang the machine or contain malware.
Any suggestions?
TIA
Hawkeye
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Stranger in a strange land
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I believe I had something similar in the early 90's called.... Fish.
Try E-bay? I might have a copy of it somewhere at home I could dig out. If I can find it, it's yours. I'll have a look at the weekend.
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I believe I had something similar in the early 90's called.... Fish.
Was this the one with IIRC no sound and other objects like a TARDIS and could run on top of your desktop background?
I don't know about ME CDs, but if you've still got the installation you could try searching the disk CAB files for the .scr screensaver file, though it may also require some dll files.
--------------
Mike Farrow
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"Was this the one with IIRC no sound and other objects like a TARDIS and could run on top of your desktop background?"
That's the one I remember. I had fish swimming over Ayrton Senna driving round the harbour at Monaco.
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There's a vast choice of these type of screensavers (don't know if these include the one you require):
tinyurl.com/qwewq
tinyurl.com/47747
tinyurl.com/qh7sk
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I think you're talking about After Dark. I've got a couple of versions, one is the Simpsons. Windows XP doesn't like most of it - certainly it doesn't work properly as a screensaver anymore.
I'd quite like the flying toasters back.
Lee -- Without bills, magazines and junk mail, there is no mail
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Thanks for your replies. Have one I'm happy with.
:-)
Hawkeye
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Stranger in a strange land
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I have made several attempts to install Opera as my browser. It downloads and installs ok, but it won't connect me to the web, neither will my desktop shortcuts work. I can get to Opera if I connect with another browser, but it won't work on it's own.
Any suggestions?
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It's a while since I used Opera, so I might be on the wrong track.
I decided to stick with Firefox after a short play with Opera but, I would presume, that you would have to import the Internet Explorer connection settings just as with Firefox for it to work.
Try the Help section.
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>>I have a 250GB Western Digital drive, it works fine though occasionally will exhibit a slight buzzing, this seems to last between a couple of seconds and 20 seconds and can occur at anytime as long as the PC is turned on, i.e. no connection with what the machine is doing, I initially thought it was a vibration though today I took the side of the case off and it seems to be the drive, could be perfectly normal, any thoughts?
Also I am after a second drive of the same size, I can get a similar WD 250GB (16MB buffer) drive for £65, again any thoughts?
>>
Seems to have been cured by turning off auto indexing, My Computer > right click on the Drive > Properties > General > Indexing.
Regards.
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You have checked the screws holding the drive in the bay are tight?
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I'm surprised you didn't notice a lack of performance which coincided with indexing happening. The drive would be thrashing around hence the noise, but usually the processor also gets overloaded and the system runs slow.
Anyway, glad you have sorted it.
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For some unknown reason I am unable to open any folder/files in word 2003 by using the "File - Open" menu, I am also unable to "save as". I can open Documents by double clicking directly on them, but have no way of saving new documents at the moment. I have tried doing a repair unsuccesfully, and I have tried an uninstall which also produced nil result. Any ideas on where to go from here!!!
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I'm not quite sure if this is your problem, but copied from the Motley Fool website:
SYMPTOMS
After you install security update MS06-015 (908531), you may experience one of more of the following issues:
? Unable to access special folders like "My Documents" or "My Pictures".
? Microsoft Office applications may stop responding when you attempt to save or open Office files in the "My Documents" folder.
? Office files in the "My Documents" folder are not able to open in Microsoft Office.
? Opening a file through an application's File / Open menu causes the program to stop responding.
? Typing an address into Internet Explorer's address bar has no effect.
? Right-clicking on a file and selecting Send To has no effect.
? Clicking on the plus (+) sign beside a folder in Windows Explorer has no effect.
? Some third-party applications stop responding when opening or saving data in the ?My Documents? folder
Follow the instructions in the following link to fix the problem.
support.microsoft.com/default.aspx/kb/918165?
\"Archie\"
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Absolutly fanstastic, Thank you very much, that was driving me round the bend - back to normal now - So much for MS security Updates!!!!!!!
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Thanks also for that info. My sister phoned up complaining of the same things happening on her pc - will try fixing it with this later.
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I would suggest cut and paste when doing the name field in the "Dword", I had 3 attempts and it was only by cutting and psting did I get it right!!!
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I?m using i-tunes to try and burn 100 tunes on to one CD for a pal. It?s telling me I can only do this if they?re MP3s. I thought they were but they seem to be MPEG4 files whatever they are. Two Questions - why didn?t they import as MP3s when I transferred them from CD to i-tunes. And can I convert them to MP3s now and how? I use i-tunes 6.0.4 on a mac if that helps.
Cheers
Dave
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I think you will find they need to be converted to MP3`s,file system is MPEG4 different format and not recognised by burning software,as a mac not sure if any conversion software available ??.
for windows there are a couple around
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Steve
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This could be a pig of a problem in that I have some 7000 tunes that I want to archive to DVD. In the olden days when you bought a Mac you got a thick manual for every piece of software installed on it. All I got with this one was a trendy 6-page gate-folded coaster. Useless.
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Presumably this needs moving to Computer-Related Questions
I've never used the Mac version of iTunes and I'm not a fan of the Windows version. However, I have used it enough to know that it gives a choice of different formats when ripping CDs. I'm guessing that MPEG4 is the default. On the Windows version, you change the settings by going to Edit - Preferences. On the box that appears, click the Advanced tab and there are yet more tabs, one of which is headed 'Importing'. The format of the files is determined by the settings on that tab. The option to use MP3 is there.
If the Mac version lacks this, you'll need to use some other software to create MP3s.
You could convert MPEG4 to MP3 but this isn't necessarily a good idea. Any form of compression will reduce the quality. Converting from one compressed format to another will reduce it further. Think of it as photocopying a photocopy. Better to return to the original discs and rip them again.
MP3 isn't the best format for music compression but it's by far the commonest.
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Presumably this needs moving to Computer-Related Questions
Doh! It's there already.
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Cheers Welliesorter.
But aren't Mpeg4s already compressed? I can can certainly tell there is degredation on some tracks when I play them through the ipod.
I can?t rip those discs again, I?ve been doing it since Christmas and I?ve still got 100 to go.
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But aren't Mpeg4s already compressed?
Yes, so converting to another compressed format will repeat the process and make the quality even worse. Better (but very laborious) to start with the original CDs.
There certainly will be software that'll do the conversion. It may even be able to convert files in batches so you don't have to watch over the computer while it happens. I'm afraid I don't know what Mac programs are available though. For Windows, my preferred program is CDex but I've read good things of Audacity.
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You?re right Welliesorter, the default setting was MPEG4. How useful is that?
Here we go again, should be finished by late summer.
Cheers
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WINDOWS XP HOME EDITION
Sometimes after turning off my computer via START>TURN COMPUTER OFF the computer freezes when the "WINDOWS IS CLOSING/SHUTTING DOWN" message appears on the screen. I have tried the CLRT/ALT/DELETE solution and this will not shut the computer down. The only way I can turn it off is pressing the ON/OFF button on the computer tower. When the computer gets to the WINDOWS IS CLOSING/SHUTTING DOWN position will it harm my computer using the ON/OFF button to turn it off. Or better still does anyone know of a solution to this problem
Thanks
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A little more information to my previous post
When I had problems shutting down on my old and now deceased WINDOWS 98se I had a message saying CHECKING DISC FOR ERRORS the next time I booted the computer up. I do not get any message on this computer (WINDOWS XP) at the next boot up after I have had to previously use the ON/OFF BUTTON to turn it off.
Thanks
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You could try looking at the logs in the Event Viewer (Control Panel, Administrative Tools) - do they show any warnings/errors at the times when you shut down?
John
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Have a look at the attached for possible resolutions:
support.microsoft.com/?scid=kb;en-us;308029&spid=1...2
Switching off in the way you describe can cause problems, for instance Windows compresses the registry on shut down, if this is not allowed to happen the registry can exceed the default maximum size and you are in real trouble, this was/is common in Win 2000 where the default registry size was quite small.
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So as to not worry you unduly I should have said that the registry issue would be the result of many forced switch offs, one or two would not be a problem.
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Its related to a programe you have installed. Its refusing to obey the shutdown command or should pop up a confirmation box and is not or is leaving an active thread knocking about.
Try shutting it down after a reboot and not having started a program. If that ok then test it with just one prog running and see which one is causing it.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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This problem with shutdown has happen about four or five times in the last two weeks, is there a chance if I did a system restore to a point before the problem started (say three weeks back)I might get rid of the problem.
Thanks
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well it might not be the right answer but is exactly what i have had to do with my home computer this week,so unless somebody says nooooooo then unless you have saved something that you are frightened of losing and cannot transfer it to a disc or floppy then i would certainly do it
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You should avoid using the Power button to turn off your system - it's really an emergency route if, say, your system freezes.
XP can very quickly recover from system errors itself normally, but some useful advice is available on the Microsoft website at:
support.microsoft.com/?kbid=308029
www.theeldergeek.com/shutdown_issues_in_xp.htm
aumha.org/win5/a/shtdwnxp.php
tinyurl.com/6k9c3
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You should avoid using the Power button to turn off your system - it's really an emergency route if, say, your system freezes.
...but you can program it to perform a controlled shutdown - mine is set to hibernate when I press it (control panel ->power options -> advanced).
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Yes, it's worth a go. If you've installed any software or devices you may have to do them again, but files (photos, documents, etc) aren't touched.
Ensure you've got backups of all your important stuff though, just in case this is a precursor to a hard disk drive collapse.
Lee
Lee -- You don\'t sell the steak, you sell the sizzle
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Are we sure there's not a bit of scaremongering going on here? I quite regularly (one time in two) simply disconnect the power lead when mine won't shut down properly. Never given me a problem. Mind you, it only gets shut down once or twice a week...
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Smokie, you're doomed. Doomed I tells ya
No, you're right, it probably won't do any major damage (which if you've got proper backups, isn't a worry anyway!).
Lee -- You don\'t sell the steak, you sell the sizzle
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I dont have or do much of importance on my computer but I have for the last eighteen months or so backed up to CD once a month the things most important to me. This ritual paid off when my old 98se went kaput about 8 months ago.
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ME was running slowly so I rebooted. It froze during reboot, so I pressed the reset button. On booting up it prompted me to start in SAFE mode, I selected normal mode.
When it booted up, it was all funny (there's no green in the desktop picture, the sizes are all wrong). I've shut down, waited 5 minutes & rebooted. Rebooted. And still it's like this.
Any suggestions, please?
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Roll back or remove and reinstall the video driver. MAke sure the video card is firmly seated in the machine.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Thanks, TVM.
In English, please?
Where do I find the video card... which one is it?
How do I roll back my video driver? (Push him down a mountain?)
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Video card is the one that your monitor is connected to - it may well be that the video is built into the motherboard so will be directly connected to the large board with all the components on it.
Roll back driver (don't recall if Me supports this), but go to Device Manager (right click my computer, manage, device manager), select the display adapter and then properties. Under driver, it may have a button marked "roll back driver"
Lee -- You don\'t sell the steak, you sell the sizzle
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Thanks. When I right click my computer on the desktop, I don't have that option?
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Try right clicking My Computer > Properties > Hardware > Device Manager then try as Lee says.
I have an ME machine at home, I will look later if you dont get it sorted.
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Sounds like you've got the wrong video settings - right click desktop, select properties and then fiddle with these settings. If you can't fix it from there you may need to reinstall the video driver.
Worth noting that Microsoft withdraw support for 98, 98SE and Me in July - so no critical security updates - may be time to jump ship to XP, or even better Mac OS X!
Lee -- You don\'t sell the steak, you sell the sizzle
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It could also be a Power Supply Unit (PSU) problem - it may be on its way out.
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Well, thanks all. I did a system restore back to some point in time and all is now well again.
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Another backroom IT success!!
Let's all head off to Ian Cook's virtual pub for a Friday pint.
Lee -- You don\'t sell the steak, you sell the sizzle
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I have just copied my first DVD (DVD to DVD) it took about 70 minutes in total.
Is this normal, or is there any way to speed up proceedings?
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Speed up proceedings? Get a faster PC?
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Make sure you have nothing and I mean Nothing else running.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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drbe
if it took 70 mins then that implies no "acceleration". You were either using a "slow" DVD or DVD drive, i.e. not a 4* etc or it was a good DVD and the wizard in the pc was enjoying watching it.
JH
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drbe if it took 70 mins then that implies no "acceleration". You were either using a "slow" DVD or DVD drive, i.e. not a 4* etc or it was a good DVD and the wizard in the pc was enjoying watching it. JH
I am afraid I don't understand the terminology.
I have just recorded another DVD and this one took about 20 minutes for a similar amount of data.
What is the normal time for DVD to DVD copying?
Thank you for your responses.
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When I burn a DVD it takes about 30-35 min for 4.6GB. That is burning from an image file.
If I am doing a disc to disc copy then I expect to wait around 60-70 min for the whole thing - but I only have the one drive so it copies the image to HDD and then burns the temp image.
If you are using a 2 drive setup then I would expect it to be more around the 35 min mark.
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drbe,
apologies for the terminology. In common with CD burners, the first DVD burners that came out were " 1*" that is they take 1 minute to copy 1 minute of data. So a 90 minute film would take 90 minutes. 4* are now common and I think the fastest are about 8*. That is a 90 minute film would copy in (at best) 90/8 minutes = 11 minutes ish. BUT you must use media, that is a DVD, which is capable of being written to at those speeds. And in reality there's some faffing about at the beginning and end and peak speeds are rarely achieved, so that theoretical 11 minutes may turn out to be a real 15 or so.
As TVM said, it's imperative to walk away and leave it. Why did one copy faster than the other? Well, two options above - did you use the same brand of DVD each time and were you using the computer on one occasion but not the other?
JH
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Why did one copy faster than the other? Well, two options above - did you use the same brand of DVD each time and were you using the computer on one occasion but not the other? JH
Thank for your responses JH.
The DVDs were the same, but when copying the first one I had the internet running. The second time I didn't, perhaps that is the reason.
However, I have now established that it takes a significant amount of time, so I will indulge in some serious navel gazing whilst copying disks in future!
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Any recommendations? Cheapest seems to be a Safecom card from ebuyer, about £17 all-in, which appears to get good reviews. Must support 802.11g, WPA-PSK and be compatible with Windows 2000. I don't mind if it requires a fair bit of tweaking to get it to work - I've usually found this necessary even with more expensive brands.
TIA,
Jon
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Slightly off tack, but I still retain a Safecom dialup modem for emergency purposes, which has been used in several systems over the past 12-18 months.
It takes all the swapping around with no ill-effects, yet only cost about £10.
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For a combination of domestic and other reasons, I am considering migrating from using a conventional PC, to acquiring an Apple Mac laptop (MacBook Pro). Amongst other things I am impressed by the speed and visual clarity.
I know that equivalent software is available e.g. MS Office/Works, and that I will be able to adopt wireless Broadband, etc. etc.
Just wondered if there are any other issues I may not have considered.
Oz (as was)
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Office exists for the Mac, wireless broadband not a problem I use on on my dual core iMac.
For Internet, email and general SoHo use, it's great.
Lee
Lee -- You don\'t sell the steak, you sell the sizzle
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"Just wondered if there are any other issues I may not have considered"
The cost
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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I believe the Mac laptops were the first laptops to have built-in onboard wireless capabilities, back around 1999, so no problems there ;-)
Otherwise, look at it this way. If one company has 5% of the market and another has 95% of the market, which company do you think will work hardest at being compatible? I work with a lot of other writers, editors, and academics and they use (mostly) all kinds of flavours of Windows, with a smattering of§ Macs and Linux and I don't have problems--haven't used Windows for work in two years.
There is a huge, thriving, and highly competitive market for Mac software. Take a look at versiontracker.com and try out some shareware and freeware alternatives before you shell out for MS Office.
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You can get Office for the Mac, but Apple also do their own iWork 06 which will save and open MS Word and Powerpoint seamlessly anyway, and if you need excel, but don't want to buy MS Excel, you could use Appleworks as I do.
Don't forget you can still boot into Windows XP SP2 on the new Macs if you need to via Boot Camp, and even better, open Windows XP in a window via the shareware called Parallel, then you can flip between the two systems pretty seamlessly until you have found a way to do everything you are used to and got all of the Applications you need.
I bought a MacMini Duocore recently for £562 inc VAT and delivery. It's marvellous, tiny, fast, silent, 5-80 watts, runs Mac OSX and Windows XP, Front Row.
All I would say is it requires a lot of RAM preferably 2GB in order to take full advantage of the speed, and to run lots of non-intel native programmes at the same time. I bought the RAM on ebay as Apple charge a lot for it in comparison.
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Thanks for excellent advice folks - and obviously I have considered the cost ...
:o@
Oz (as was)
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My PC is a Compaq with AMD Athon processor & 768 mb RAM.
This may be a daft question - but what do I need to make it possible to run a wireless router on it?
ADSL soon!
Roger. (Costa del Sol, España)
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Not an expert in these things but I think...
One PC will need to be hardwired to the router to configure it. It can be disconnected once config is done. Therefore you will need a network card (very cheap) and cable. Or a network crossover cable, but this might be more difficult to use.
Then in each PC which is to attach to the wireless you will need a wireless something - either a card or Bluetooth dongle or USB wireless network card.
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Hi Roger,
Is that the only computer in your house? If so, why do you need a wireless router? If not, you'll need an network card in your PC. There's a chance there's one already in there built into the motherboard into which you'll plug the router into via an ethernet cable.
Other PC's or laptops using the wireless connection will need wireless network cards which are pretty cheap nowadays.
(You can connect your router up to your PC using a wireless card too but it's not really recommended. Best to use a cable)
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You dont even need a network cable, you can use USB.
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Hi Roger,
It'll depend on the router (&package) you choose, but generally there's a network point on the router itself you can use to connect. You'll need a network point on your PC and a network cable to do this.
If you've got the right package including the bits for your PC, you may find that it's all set up to work wirelessly from initia set up so you can work without the wires. It all depends on the device.
Have you got the router yet/do you know what the model is and what you'll use to connect it to the router.
Simplest option would be a wireless router and a USB Wi-Fi card that connects to it.
Lee -- You don\'t sell the steak, you sell the sizzle
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>>You'll need a network point on your PC and a network cable to do this.>>
You dont need a network card / cable, you can connect via a USB cable to the router then, if you wish, connect another PC wirelessly to the router with a USB Wireless adapter or, if a laptop, a Wireless PCMCIA card.
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So does that suggest there's something dodgy about this?:
cgi.ebay.co.uk/MICROSOFT-MS-OFFICE-PROFESSIONAL-20...m
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That looks exceedingly cheap. You might be lucky and find it's a genuine, legal copy. But for that money, I'd be surprised.
Interesting that the recent negative feedback for the seller relates to some counterfeit goods....
Lee -- You don\'t sell the steak, you sell the sizzle
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You really think that someone who has 48 sets of software worth over 300 quid each and who puts a buy it now price of 9.99 on it is genuine?
I got it for a fiver anyway.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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You paid too much.
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I got it off Big Bad Dave
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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you not well then?
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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He is fine, he is otherwise known as timbamber though.
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You really think that someone who has 48 sets of software worth over 300 quid each and who puts a buy it now price of 9.99 on it is genuine? I got it for a fiver anyway. ------------------------------ TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
I just couldn't work out exactly HOW it was dodgy.
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As with Windows XP you have to activate Office 2003 using a genuine serial number, so you may get a genuine CD but an already used serial number.
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There is no such thing as an already used serial number. MS dont have a record of every key in use.
They do however have a list of the most commonly (ab)used keys (mostly corporate or preload key ids)
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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As with Windows XP you have to activate Office 2003 using a genuine serial number, so you may get a genuine CD but an already used serial number.
Unless the serial number given relates to a volume site licence, such as from a university. The (legal) versions of XP Pro and MS Office I used back in the day did not phone home or require authentication. It came from a university for the price of the blank CDs and was/is covered by the site licence.
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timbamber? It probably doesn't surprise you to hear that I have no idea what the hell you're on about!
As RF says, they just have a list of blacklisted codes. It was the same with Windows.
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Sorry Adam, timbamber is the e-bay guy selling £300 software for a tenner.
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I even looked at the ad too!
That was actually quite funny - and I spoiled it.
Sorry!
Don't know about timbamber but stupid - definitely!
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So the general opinion is that I should steer clear then?
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If you want a legitimate, working copy of Office, yes.
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Err no one actually said that.........we just said it was hookey software.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Err no one actually said that.........we just said it was hookey software.
[whisper]
yeah I know, I was trying to be subtle. I'm not very good at it
[/whisper]
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It may or may not be hookey but quite frankly you have more chance of being done for speeding than being done for hookey software. The biggest danger from hookey software is that it is usually full of spyware or a nasty virus. If your kids go to university they will return with more hookey software than you knew existed. Of course no one in this forum has any iffy software have you??
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"Of course no one in this forum has any iffy software have you??"
What do you need? ;-)
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Or if you do want to be legal get this for £199
partner.microsoft.com/40009735
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