I did leave about 20min between coats
here what it looks like now after 6 coats and 24 hours drying
www.underload.co.uk/after.jpg
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I reckon two things
1/ Paint is duff
2/ Paint needs shaking till the cows come home
2 is far, far more probable, I've certainly met some paint where the pigment wanted to stay in a claggy mass at the bottom of the tin.
While aerosols will never be a good as a real paintshop, no way should the results be that bad.
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If you take your paint code to a good motor factor they will mix up an aerosol for you. It's a bit more pricey (I got one this week - £12 for big tin) but the paint and aerosol head is high quality - makes a far better job and is a good inexpensive alternative to a 'proper' respray.
Graeme
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would my local ford dealer where i do my service and mot make a aerosol filled with my paint??
oh crap thats another weekend wasted. i got this aerosol from halford, is there a way to tell if the paint inside the can is a duff before buying it?
thx guys for the help before i added another 5 coats to see if it covers the grey primer.
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Ford dealer is probably the best place to get the match. As long as you now the exact colour they'll be able to supply the paint. It,s more expensive than Halfords but it'll match when it's on unlike what you've bought.
About 2 months ago i repaired my Mondeo estate rear bumper with a GRP patch, bought the paint from local Ford dealer and sprayed the repair, it's a metallic finish ( juice green ) and you cannot tell that it's been patched. Can of paint and can of lacqour cost just over £12, probably double of what you would pay @ Halfords.
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Yup
you need to leave this lot to dry complely, rub it down with fine wet and dry (wet) and go and get another can of paint, and when SP says shake, you shake like hell, making sure you can hear that little ball dinging around, for ten minutes. And you do the same for each coat.
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>Yup
>you need to leave this lot to dry complely, rub it down with >fine wet and dry (wet) and go and get another can of paint, >and when SP says shake, you shake like hell, making sure you >can hear that little ball dinging around, for ten minutes. And >you do the same for each coat.
I got tired shaking that stupid thing for 2mins, but 10mins!!!, i wish i paid someone else to do it then buying all this usless junk (not the sandpaper).
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First rule when using aerosols is: ensure can and contenst are warm. i.e 20C. Not hot or it will explode.Just warm to the touch. If it's been lying in a cold garage and you use it
1. it will not mix
2. it does not spray finely
It also mixed far better so you don't shake for 20 minutes:-)
I found a good trick was to put it in a pocket and garden / walk with it for 30 minutes or longer. Share it occasionaly. It's warm it up and mix it a little.
Then shake throughly.
(or place in a pan of warm water if you want to warm it quickly).
Usual warnings about flames/ too hot water/smoking etc. Aerosols are potential flame bombs if heated.
madf
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It looks like the primer isn't rubbed down very well - even without the paint problem, straight edges will show up from underneath. If it was me doing it, I'd go back to square one and rub it down more.
I think you'd get problems with the angular masking you have at the moment when you peel it off.
Agreed with the others, there is something wrong with the paint - either the tin or the shaking.
I've usually got tins made up at a paintshop for small areas and it comes out like proper paint and one coat would cover that white primer although more are needed for a decent finish. 8 to 10 quid for a large aerosol, but its worth it - I enquired about shelf life and they said "years", but remember to tunr it upside down to blow the paint out of the nozzle.
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Now I might be wrong here, but I thought Java Blue had a black primer?
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I thought so too and it looked black when i sanded down back to bare metal, but i used that halford paint list for each type of model and it came up with grey primer for my 2000 ford fiesta
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