Buy the viscosity stated eg 10w40, or if what you are getting is different, make sure the second (40) hot viscosity figure is the same.
The other codes are performance specifications awarded by various bodies, usually, ACEA and API.
As a rule of thumb, for petrols, just look for the API code with as high a letter as possible after the S, eg SL.
S stands for Spark-ignition. and SL is the highest rating to date, SJ is older, and so on. So any API SJ or SL should be fine for your car. (For diesels C is for compression and the codes are CD, CF etc...) Try and get the best ratings on a cheaper brand such as Comma (Esso) rather than paying for motorsport sponsorship and TV adverts with Castrol etc...
The ACEA ratings are more complicated, but generally, the A is for petrol, the B for diesel. so ACEA A3, B3 is generally where the higher the number the better, but there are exceptions such as some numbers are for 2 strokes or heavy duty, but you are unlikely to see these in the shops anyway. There is usually the date of test there to, such as ACEA A3-99, B4-99 if they were tested in 1999.
Googl for API chart or ACEA chart and you will probably find more info. API certainly have a nice PDF poster with a table of the meanings.
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Kev
Some important questions before choosing oil:
* What mileage on the engine?
* How old is it?
* What has it been running on?
Synthetics may not be appropriate for engines with high mileage or advanced age, or both. It's pretty well established that going from fully synthetic to semi-synth or mineral oil is an inadvisable downgrade. There are those who reckon semi-synth offers performance no better than that of good mineral oil, although it costs appreciably more. And, never forget: Castrol Magnatec is a mineral oil, in spite of the weasel words "synthetically engineered" on the container.
Also, I reckon that, within reasonable limits, changing oil & filter frequently is more important than the supposed benefits of any particular brand. As someone else has said, oil is not expensive but engines are, even though the handbook or on-board computer might say you can do 20,000 miles between changes, I wouldn't let any of my cars go further than 3,000 miles or six months without a change (although fully synthetics are reckoned to be good for 5,000 miles and more).
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Suggest you also look at the HJ Technical topic: the info supplied there is by the same people who have given lots of info here: www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?p=1&f=66&t=1...0 There might even be something on the MGF, but its a long thread! You could e-mail Guy for his recommendations. No involvement by me except as a customer.
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Well what car have you got? You mention MG and BMW handbooks?
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Morrisons the supermarket are selling in their petrol stations, Havoline Extra 10/40 SL @ £9.99/gallon. This is a Texaco oil and I believe it might also be sold as a Ford oil as well. If you change your oil and filters at ~6K miles then for most cars it will be satisfactory.
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