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Does it make any difference if an engine is warm/hot or cold when changing a cam belt? I was speaking with someone who said it did. In my ignorance I have never thought it made sufficient difference to worry about. Surely if it did then garages would have to have cars in the day before a change to keep the engine cold . Just wondered what the correct procedure should be.
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Engine cold.Is preferable. Warm ok..hot takes a bit longer due to heat of engine melting your mits..Apart from that I see no difference!?
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Steve
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Just as I thought. Thankyou.
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I can't think of any reason it could make any difference.
Maybe they were thinking of the old days of having to set tappets with the engine cold??
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I can't think of any reason it could make any difference.
Heat expands metal. in other words, when the engine is hot, the belt will be under more tension. If you fit a belt to an engine that is hot and either check the tension with a proper tensioning tool or use the 90° twist method, when the engine cools down the belt could be too slack. A slack belt can easily have it's teeth stripped from it.
That is why a lot of manufacturers specify fitting a belt when the engine is cold.
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Depends on car and tension arrangement. Although you can set the tension when cold, when hot the tension will be higher and and some set ups quite a lot higher even to the extent of excess tension. A Pug 106 TU1 engine if set correctly when stone cold is well tight when hot and causes the belt to be noisy and wheeze at tickover. Always best ,if you are unsure about the correct cold tension, to run the engine for 10 mins and check/reset the tension allowing that little bit extra for the belt to settle, then recheck when cold. I know that some engines require a lot to be removed to gain access but the belt is pretty important. Regards Peter
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When the engine is originally made and hence the belt is originally fitted, I would hazzard a guess its cold.
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I'm going to change SWMBO's cambelt on her 1.4 diesel Peugeot 106.. but only when the weather is warmer. I'll do it with an engine that was run about 2 hours before so it's warm enough to work on, but not scalding hot.
Nothing worse than doing delicate jobs in freezing winter weather and although I have a gas radiant heater...:-)
madf
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Yes I agree but remember they use a special calibrated tool to set the tension so it is adequate when cold and correct when hot. A 90 turn with A finger and thumb is not. There are tools around that listen to the resonance of the belt to establish its tension. Often used at manufacture but in situ you can not always get them in even if you had one. Difficult but if it is your own can or a car you service regularly the belt tension should be rechecked anyway say at 6 or 10K miles. Regards Peter
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