Some while ago I have replaced a cooling fan. I have also performed an ECU reset as procedure mentioned by another BR. This was for the stepper motor problem I had before.
Somewhile after this my alarm failed to sound when activated.
But the indicators flash when the alarm is triggered. They also flash when arming the alarm correctly.
I initially thought it may be a fuse somewhere. However I found the fuse is shared with other tasks (Please correct me if I am wrong). Therefore it couldn't be a fuse.
However yesterday upon parking up in car park. I opened the passenger door and the alarm siren suddenly burst into life. However the indicators did not flash?!!
Can anyone shed some light on what may be going on and what can I check this weekend?
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306 2.0 SE Cabriolet
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Sounds like another case of a broken door wire harness.
Pull back rubber sleeving around door harness, and look for broken/weak wires. Cut and resolder with short piece of wire. Space is very tight, and heatshrink will help insulate them.
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I've checked both door harness's. They are both OK. I have taken out the alarm sounder. Its a Texton unit Part no: 96266287.80 It looks like an alarm sounder and Ni-Cd battery combined. I suspect the battery is suffering from a memory effect and may not be functional. The unit has four connections. I'd like to check the unit before I go out and buy a new one. But I have no idea what to check for with a multimeter. Any idea anyone??
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306 2.0 SE Cabriolet
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On my 1993 texalarm unit, when I disconnect the battery, the alarm sounds regardless of whether the alarm keyswitch in bonnet is turned on or off (security feature).
Basic question, but has to be asked, have you turned the alrm sounder on from the keyswitch in the bonnet?
Might be a good test for your NiCd battery. Are you buying a whole new unit or just the batteries? Rechargeable batteries normally go open circuit when they die.
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Solara,
I'm aware of what you mean but my car is a phase 3 2000(W). This series was never fitted with a keyswitch under the bonnet.
Both the alarm control and alarm sounder/battery combo is located in the nearside wing panel.
It looks like I need to buy a complete unit as its a sealed alarm sounder and battery in one.
I would normally test the sounder/battery with my multimeter but there are four terminals on this Texton box. So I don't have a clue what I can test for with my meter.
Any pointers would be useful thanks
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306 2.0 SE Cabriolet
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At a guess, I would assume atleast 3 connections are used (of the four). Ground, Permanent 12v (to charge nicd), alarm active signal from control panel. Might be worth probing around for voltages.
I have known people having problems with these sirens after using a jet wash. Water gets into siren and kills it.
Good luck, and keep us updated.
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hmmm
sounds like the usual peugeot electrical system
my car to date
2 alternators (second charging at 18.6 volts on idle)
2 batteries (fried by second alternator)
new instrument cluster (also fried by second alternator)
various panel lights (presumably death by alternator again)
current faults
no air-con (no its not gas cos ive had it done... so there)
no intermittent wipers
climate control switches from full cold to full hot all on its own
automatic heater fans speed thingy on full speed constantly
any ways. let me know how u go in with it. i think ive got some wiring diagrams somwhere which i will try to dig out
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mini, pug, landy, Andy.
I went through the same issue with my last car (Rover 214SEi 95N. I went through three batteries and an alternator. I'm not getting overvoltage from the alternator.
Everything else is fine on the car (apart from usual airbag flashing light syndrome) the mileage is very low 41k for a 5 year old car. The car overall has been very reliable.
The wiring information would be most useful if you do have them. I'd rather not poke around looking for voltages as I'm more likely to cause more damage!! I'm not keen on taking it to the local dealer as they will just change parts for the sake of it and just charge me the priveledge.
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306 2.0 SE Cabriolet
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Solara
I was thinking along the same lines. But I was worried about probing around and causing additional faults. As Peugeot electrics are just as bad as Fiat electrics!
As I live in a flat and have no access to a hose, I do tend to take my car to these hand wash places that use jet washes. Mind you five years to replace a battery that is Ni-Cd based sounds about right. I wonder why they have chosen to use Ni-Cd rather than lithium or Ni-MH.
Incidentlty I have had a quote from Peugeot for the battery/siren and its £136.48 for the part!! Do you know if the Citroen Xsara range uses the same sounder/battery as the Peugeot 306?
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306 2.0 SE Cabriolet
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My alarm is 11 yrs old, and still on its original internal batteries (NiCds I assume). Choice usually comes down to cost, NiCds are the cheapest batteries, and will last for the warranty period!
That is alot of money for a guess fix.
Does your central locking system operate normally?
Not sure about the Citroen alarm systems.
I have probed my alarm system/central locking with no ill effects.
Incidentally, the last time I had alarm problems (going off intermittently overnight), that was due to a duff main lead-acid battery. Mines is a turbo diesel, so battery gets a good battering from glow plugs and starter. My theory was on cold nights, the dying electrode plates would touch, causing a drop in voltage which triggered the alarm.
PS if you do swap the siren, do an autopsy on the old one and let us know what you find.
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I expect the battery choice is also on cost. It is indeed too much for a guess fix. If it had been £50 I would have just done it to try it. My central locking and alarm (Except siren) operate as normal. The C/L operates and deadlocks. When the alarm is triggered the indicators flash rapidly as they have done in the past. Just the siren noise is missing. I have checked the battery/siren with a meter and seem to get 1.5V across two permutations and there seems to be some resistance across two permutations. Unfortunately I doubt if that is of any help to anyone.
The main battery on the car is the original battery since new. It has never been changed. I've checked the battery with a meter and it seems ok. What other check could I perform with main battery.
With regards to an autopsy on the siren/battery. I'm a bit weary of opening up a battery and spilling the contents everywhere. It's difficult to tell where the battery ends and where the siren starts.
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306 2.0 SE Cabriolet
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This is what I would try and do (not necessarily what you should do!):
1. disconnect siren unit.
2. Identify ground pins on loom connector by measuring resistance between body earth.
3. Measure voltage at all (non-ground) pins (relative to earth).
4. Repeat 3 with ignition switched on
5 Hopefully you will detect a trickle voltage (which charges nicads in siren)
6. Repeat 3 with alarm supposedly activated.
7. Hopefully you will detect 12v at one of the pins when alarm is activated.
8. Now try applying 12volts directly to same pins on siren unit.
This is me just thinking aloud. Take it all with a pinch of salt!
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Thanks for the info. It all sounds logical. My only fear is that it may trigger off another electrical fault in the car.
I had considered connecting the siren directly to battery. This would be away from the car. So at worst I could end up with a duff main battery. I'm assuming that the siren is already dead.
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306 2.0 SE Cabriolet
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I've visited the local Citroen dealer this evening to see if they had the part any cheaper. Turns out that the sounder used was fitted to the Citroen ZX. However they wanted £200 for the sounder. What I need to find out now is what PSA cars have had this Texton sounder fitted so I can look for the "right donor car" in the breaker's yards.
Anyone know which ZX or 306 has this sounder?
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306 2.0 SE Cabriolet
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I would look out for the high spec models such as XT/XTDT/Xsi etc, as they will have the alarm as standard. Otherwise its a question of ripping out wheelarch covers until you strike gold.
Might be worth keeping an eye out on eBay.
Personally, I would take the siren to bits and attempt to fix it. If it contains just a plain 12v siren, you can pick up one of these from maplins for a tenner.
Good luck Scrapping
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Thanks for the info Solara
I've looked into taking the siren to bits. It looks like there is a PCB onboard and they have basically dropped rubber all over the PCB to act as a waterproofing. So if rip open the rubber, I may end up pulling out a capacitor from the PCB. I have noticed two blocks which look like a battery. But they seem to be ceramic in feel. Perhaps they are capacitors, I can visibly see the top of a capacitor in another area.
There is some markings on the two ceramic devices - Made in Mexico and some form of bar code.
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306 2.0 SE Cabriolet
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Solara
Just a thought, if I disconnect the alarm control box would this reset the control unit?
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306 2.0 SE Cabriolet
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Hmmm, epoxy resined pcbs, not worth the bother.
Is the internal siren sounder separate from the pcb? Surely they wouldn't have resined that in too. I doubt they would also resin in the batteries. Batteries are probably not your problem, they are their as backup when main battery is disconnected. Even if internal batteries were dead you should still hear full blown siren when main battery is connected and alarm is activated.
Not sure about control unit requiring resetting. I would go through normal procedure of disconnecting battery, reconnecting and registering remote.
Other things to check are under drivers seat. There is the main engine immobilser/alarm control panel. There is also a smaller black box with relays which flashes lights viawhen alarm is activated. Maybe there is also a relay to activate the siren, which could be sticky?
Also behind rear passengers seat (drivers side) is the central locking control unit. Check for wet puddles around these units, just incase your soft top is leaking!
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I thought the same about the taking out the resin. I can't see beyond the resin. I don't really want to start cracking open the plastic casing. But that's the only other way in!
I've gone through the ECU reset procedure as found on other posts in the BR and have got the fobs and alarm (bar siren) working with no probs. Maybe I have done this ECU reset incorrectly for a Phase 3 car.
I've had a good look under drivers seat already, there is nothing there on my car. The black box is on the under the front nearside wing. Based just above where the siren is installed. I believe the central locking unit is sited under the rear seat squab. I haven't checked under here yet. But I will check for this box this weekend. As far as I know soft top is ok. No leaks.
In addition no one ever uses the rear seats in my car so unlikely that the box or its wiring may have moved.
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306 2.0 SE Cabriolet
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When I said under driver seat, I meant under the carpet of the drivers seat. Push the drivers seat forward, and listen for the flasher relays when you arm/disarm the car. You will probably feel a raised bit of floor where the 2 raised units sit.Then again my model is older.
If you do find the units and you want to investigate further. The drivers seat need to come out, and the carpet is split there and will need to be raised to get access (ie pull of door rubber trimming etc to raise carpet).
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Solara,
I've checked under the front seats. There isn't under there except airbag/pretensioner wiring. There is no raised section. I have checked the Peugeot EPC and it seems to indicate that the N5 series (Phase 3) has a box under the wheel arch and one somewhere in the back seat area.
I came across this web site while "googling"
www.radox.freeserve.co.uk/306.htm#alarm
Sounds like he had the same problem as me! Except he had a key in the engine bay.
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306 2.0 SE Cabriolet
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Thanks for eveyones's help.
I have now managed to get a replacement alarm sounder. I placed an ad on www.findit.co.uk I got reply last w/end and managed to get the same type of sounder for £20!!
I've just finished fitting it and it the alarm now sounds, teh sounder also sounds if you have left the door open and try to trigger the alarm.
To help anyone else with this prob. I have measured the voltage across the outer pins of the working sounder. You should have 60-70mV between these pins. You should also be able to detect some resistance (260 Ohms). On my dud one it was 0V and the resistance was infinity.
I'm gonna chop the old one up to see why I would ever need to pay £136!
Thanks once again
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306 2.0 SE Cabriolet
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