hi ive bought an n plate escort 1800 ghia
It has an intermittent problem it loses power and threatens to cut out at any speed under 40 mph reving makes it worse.
When stationary and ticking over the revs jump between 0 and 1500 revs on its own
The garage i bought it from cant find the problem they have changed the fusebox but it still does it
any ideas?
Thanks becky
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I had a similar problem on a Mk2 Golf GTI, where it would rev by itself at traffic lights (v embarrassing!) and over a period of time it began cutting out - it originally felt like it was stalling, and the engine management would rev it, but then it wouldn't even recover and it started stalling pretty frequently. After about a year of messing about trying to fix it and watching it get worse we eventually sent it off for diagnostics, and the problem was identifed (temperature sender knackered) and now it runs perfectly. I'm not suggesting the temperature sender could be your problem, but our problem was also intermittent (but got worse) and they are pigs to identify as, true to sod's law, whenever the garage had a look it ran fine. There's also the difficulty of identifying if something you've tried has worked or the car just chooses that moment to behave.
If no-one else on this forum can suggest the problem with any degree of certainty, I would recommend getting it checked by a decent diagnostics expert, it saves a lot of messing about.
Good luck
Matt
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Similar problem I had a few years back on a 1997 R reg Escort 1.8 turned out to be a faulty HEGO (Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen) Sensor.
PP
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Hi becky,
Rather a lot of possibilities, I am afraid ! The loss of power could (among other things !) be fuel pump or filter, failing/blocked Cat, or a faulty airflow (air mass) meter. If it is an airflow meter fault you may find the car drives better with it (electrically) disconnected - it won't drive 100% as the system will be in "limp home mode", but it would point to the airflow meter as the culprit.
The poor idle control could be as a result of the same fault; the idle speed control system may be struggling to maintain a steady idle because there is another fault. However, problems with the idle speed control valve are not uncommon. If you are replacing the ISCV you should remove the permanent power supply fuse to the ECU for 10 minutes to reset the "ratch voltage" setting. You can do this by disconnecting the battery, but you would have to reset any radio security code, so you would need to know what it is ! VERY occasionally, removing the ECU power supply as above mysteriously cures all sorts of driving problems anyway, so you could try this first as a "no cost" experiment !
As already stated, a professional diagnosis could save a lot of time.
regards, Adam
Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble.
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Hello
Once the power has been disconnected the car will run rough for about 10-20 minutes as it re learns (ecu)
I would not assume it was a blocked cat unless you got it professionaly tested as its very complicated lets stick to the basics.
When was the car last serviced ?
Does the car do long runs or short shopping runs ?
If there is a fault in the ecu/sensors there may be a fault code would it be worth your while to take it to ford and have them check for any fault codes
Hope this helps
--
(iam not a mechanic)
Martin Winters
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