On my MK2 Golf 1.3 the radiator has developed a very small leak. The leak is at the bottom of the radiator on the opposite side to where the pipes are connected to it.
At the moment I am not losing much water but I think that it will probably get a lot worse.
Whats the best way to remedy this problem, will I need a new radiator?
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Best solution is to get a new or exchnage radiator from your friendly motor factors. If your leaking bit is plastic, no chance of an economic repair. If it\'s metal, an expert may be able to weld/solder it, but really it\'s not worth the risk. Just bite the bullet and get it changed.
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I\'d personally recommend adding some Radweld, or other similar leak curing agent. The way I look at it is if it cures the leak, you\'ve repaired it for a fiver, or thereabouts; if not, then go to the next stage of replacing the rad.
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Forte leak stopper.
As used to good effect by my Citroen indie on Xantia heat matrices.
Claimed by manufacturer as a temporary repair, but seems to work as a permenant one.
I carry a bottle on both vehicles, one of which is a Citroen XM with "tin foil and iron filings" radiators. It appears to remain active in the system, rather than just being a "one-shot" solution.
Do a search on Google to find it!
HTH
rg
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My Cavalier has weeped a little coolant from the radiator since it was about 5 years old - it is 15 years old now. Still on the original radiator. It has never got any worse and needs about half a litre of fresh coolant every 2 months or so. Less in the summer as the weep seems to seal itself when it is hot. It gets its antifreeze changed on a total loss basis or whenever the waterpump fails - whichever is the sooner! DD's suggestion of RadWeld to start with is the way to go, then monitor the coolant level loss.
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I agree with DD's suggestion of Radweld. It has cured a couple of problems I have had with my radiators (different cars.)
It may work, or may not, but as Dave says it is worth a go before you start thinking about new radiators.
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Agree with RG....Forte's leak stopper is by far the best I've used.
--
groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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I think it is taking a risk with any modern car to use it with leaking coolant, or to do a bodge job with Radweld or similar. The consequences of a small leak suddenly getting bigger and letting the engine overheat can be catestrophic, and it all happens in matter of seconds, long before the temperature gauge has registered or you have noticed it.
The days are gone when tough old engines could be boiled dry and just had to be left to cool before filling up again.
I'd see Radweld as a get-you-home expedient, not a substitute for a real repair or a new radiator.
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