Whereabouts in the country are you? This may gain a recommendation to a Diesel specialist.
I don't know if it makes a difference, but Manual or Automatic gearbox. I'd guess Manual from your problem description, but it costs little to confirm.
How many miles on this engine? How many in your ownership?
You specifically complain about the problem when the engine is cold; can we assume the engine is OK when warm or hot? "... lost power in the middle lane of the m5 towing" suggests it can strike when hot, although these circumstances could cause overheating, when power will be cut back anyway. What did the gauge say on this occasion?
Has anyone checked the coolant temperature sensor in the engine? There are two, you want the one for the engine ECU, not the one for the gauge.
My instinct says the pump is timed incorrectly. I suggest you have it rechecked, or adjusted on the basis of how it performs, rather than to the flywheel, as the latter takes little notice of cam chain wear.
Who suggested you changed the pump, someone the internet, like me, or someone you can go back to and hold responsible? Did they suggest the pump was changed to cure this problem? (In which case you can claim the analysis was not accurate, or the cure was not implemented correctly).
Last comment: Punctuation helps people to read and understand what you have written :-)
It doesn't have to be flash, just break up different bits of information into different sentences, with a full stop and space at the end of each one.
Hope This Helps.
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Up date on my/our problem. The Autologic diagnostic showed NO faults which is most unhelpful although he 'thought' it may be the FPI.
I have since bought a second hand fuel injection pump through ebay. ( I see there are three advertised on there at the moment! ) off a 4900 mile write off Rangy so have that to fit when I can locate a puller or fabricate one.
What none of us done is state the mileage when this starts to occur ..mine has done 93000 miles..there could be a trend
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Good morning Gents ,this thread seems to have expanded.
For the record my 1999 Manual T plate 2.5 BMW DT has done 59,000 miles, because of it`s low annual mileage I have had the symptoms for probably about 18 months.
Thank you all for contributing , it would appear we are the right track for a solution
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hey bootsie all gone a bit quite on this topic hasn't it ?!!
interesting post here worth a look about Dual Mass Flywheels..no I'd never heard of 'em before either !!
www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/p38-bmw-diesel-lumpy-ti...l
Is yours a manual ?
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Mekron,
You should keep the faith - but pick your 'priests' with care!
(Terminology for other faiths is also applicable).
"about Dual Mass Flywheels..no I'd never heard of 'em before either !!"
Read Honest John in the Telegraph EVERY week. DMF's are one of his current 'common problem' areas, and is one of the reasons he shies away from recommending new diesel cars that are so equipped.
I've read the Landyzone thread you referred to, and considering his tagline of "The reason I talk to myself is that it guarantees an intelligent conversation" it's unfortunate that rrdiver is so wrong on this occasion.
RRdiver says:
"The flywheel is manufactured in two parts and they are joined by a viscous type material ..."
WRONG. Modern DMFs may be constructed like that, HJ also refers to viscous type material, but we are dealing here with a design that is at least 13 years old. Similar to the Youtube animation at www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnaXB8q3uzQ&feature=related , the BMW / 38A DMF uses springs. I don't know if they are two long ones, as the animation, or many short ones, but they are definately coil springs.
RRdiver says:
"The flywheel ... wears with time, resulting in free play between the two flywheel sections and 'wobble' on the crank position magnets, giving erratic data to the ECU. "
WRONG. Look at the position of the crankshaft position sensor (CKP). This is monitoring the crankshaft side of the flywheel, the side that is rigidly bolted to the crankshaft. Thinking about it, it would be stupid to design it any other way, given the important role the CKP plays in timing the fuel injection. (Read the Workshop Manual).
I don't doubt that a loose and worn DMF affects idle. Considering the heavy part of the flywheel is wobbling about it would be disappointing if the effect was not felt. The flywheel is there TO affect the running of the engine, BUT any roughness is due to a wobbling heavy flywheel, NOT to magnets moving.
RRdiver says:
"Pity that Land Rover doesn't have the morals to do something about this fault."
This is totally unrealistic. The vehicle has been out of production for 5 years, with the earliest examples 13 years old. Many examples have done over 100,000 miles without this problem. No-one can realistically expect a manufacturer to pick up the tab for wear and tear. For example, LR didn't do that for the V8 slipping cylinder liners while the car was in production.
I'm not a member of Landyzone, so won't be telling them I've cured the problem, in practice, not just in theory. Besides, I notice you have cross-linked back to this thread.
Stick with your plan of changing the pump - Good Luck.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 11/08/2008 at 11:11
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I think, for my own safety, I'd better repeat a point I made earlier in this thread:
"I don't recognise 'Lumpy tickover', but do recognise 'you might stop for traffic lights and the engine looses its smooth tickover when your foot comes off the accelerator, it needs a blip on the throttle to recover the rhythm, it doesn't always happen"
I make this repetition because even within this thread, and certainly across this and the Landyzone thread, there may be TWO problems being discussed, with two DIFFERENT solutions.
A lumpy tickover, as in the title of this thread, and as Mekon has used in the Landyzone thread title, may well be caused by a worn DMF.
The "might stop for traffic lights and the engine looses its smooth tickover when your foot comes off the accelerator, it needs a blip on the throttle to recover the rhythm, it doesn't always happen" is NOT caused by a worn DMF.
This fault is accompanied with the flash of the MIL light, but this may be of very short duration and can either be missed altogether, or is initially glimpsed only from the 'corner of the eye". Only by concentrating on the instrument cluster at likely moments does the driver pick out which light is flashing. Yes, this concentration does take attention off the traffic conditions, so care is required.
Once identified, subsequent flashes become easier and quicker to recognise.
In the Landyzone thread, 'Geekfreek' says :
"Have you ever seen the MIL light come on for a few seconds when coming off the throttle after a drive?
When you re-apply the throttle, there is a 'dead' spot of lag for a second or two sometimes?"
My experience of the problem gives a YES answer to both these questions.
So, in applying a cure, be certain which fault you are addressing.
Cheers
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hi Drylining Mike..the timing can be checked on the diagnostic machine. It can be 'out' due excessive wear in the timing chain. As the pump can be changed without removing the timing case the chain may not have been checked.
cheers
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Please shoot me down in flames chaps, but the symptoms you are describing seem very similar to more old fashioned diesels i've known that have been running slightly too weak/not fuelling enough.
Now i dare say that the pumps on your vehicles are not nice and handy like the good old bosch mechanical with a fuelling screw one could just give a quarter turn clockwise and put a drop more fuel in to see what the result is.
But i do wonder whether a remap or even a plug in tuning module that inceases the mixture electronically might bear fruit.
It seems odd that no diagnostic faults come up.
Another thought, have you tried cleaning the fuel system and mainly the injectors by running some forte or millers through the sytem for a few weeks, it might be worth a try, and a very cheap experiment that could do no harm.
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There is no point in flaming you GB.
You are correct in saying that "the pumps on your vehicles are not nice and handy like the good old bosch mechanical with a fuelling screw one could just give a quarter turn clockwise and put a drop more fuel in to see what the result is."
However, with one of the Rovacom products from Blackbox Solutions one can do the electronic equivalent of adding more fuel at the tickover point. It might partially mask the problem, but it doesn't cure it.
The same 'mask the problem' comment applies to re-mapping or using a plug-in tuning module, but that's worse because you are going even further out on a limb. You aren't curing the basic fault.
"It seems odd that no diagnostic faults come up."
It's not odd that no diagnostic faults turn up. A sensor is giving a result that is inside the expected parameters. It just happens to be inappropriate in some circumstances.
"have you tried cleaning the fuel system and mainly the injectors by running some forte or millers through the sytem for a few weeks,"
Yes, Millers, and it makes no difference as dirty injectors isn't the problem.
Cheers.
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After writing my previous response to GordonBennett I realised I might have been mistaken about 'no fault reports'.
I eventually found an email from September 2006 in which I wrote :
"When reading Engine Faults, Rovacom reports an Intermittent but Major fault of 'Fuel Flow Value Out Of Range'.",
and
"I've looked at the fault record immediately after starting, and it can be clear, but 3 miles down the road, it's there, and I may not have noticed the hesitation fault. Clear the fault record, and it will come back during the trip.".
So, faults are recorded.
Note that this was using a Rovacom Lite by Blackbox Solutions. Their products have changed, but the software reports will be the same.
Report presentation using other equipment may differ.
Other equipment includes, but is not limited to, Autologic; Bosch KTS; any of the Land Rover products, such as Testbook, T4, DTS, etc.
Apologies for the misleading earlier response.
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Hello and thanks again for all you?re input, I am not a mechanic, and in fact I tend to leave the maintenance to someone more knowledgeable.
Just to explain where I currently am with this ongoing problem.
6 months ago the vehicle developed a starting problem, which was put down to worn out plugs, not bad considering how old she is, I was also eating batteries (probably a bad batch).
The starting was much improved with the new plugs and I have had several worn hoses (to be expected with this age) replaced, which was mentioned by gosling2 earlier in this thread, the vehicle would be serviced again this September.
The vehicle is regularly serviced despite the low usage and mileage, and fuel consumption is quite good (despite Gordon Brown wanting me off the road).
Okay can you please inform what a MIL light is and where can it be seen??
Lumpy tickover is probably best re-described as a Loss of engine rhythm away from its normal smooth idling. The idle becomes erratic, dropping and close to stalling, what I do not understand is why it takes a while for this symptom to occur, on a trip of a few miles it does not occur, so the temperature of the engine must be a factor??
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This may be of help:
1. Allow the fault to develop, long hot run.
2. Check for any air ingress, by looking at the clear tube leading to the fuel filter.
3. Check for any diesel being expelled from the Leak-Off Pipes.
4. Disconnect battery.
5. Remove each electrical terminal connected with injection system and clean. This means all engine sensors, especially temperature sensors, crank sensors and so on. Obviously anything which affects conductivity needs sorting. If everything is clean -
6. At this point you really need to put the vehicle on Test Book or similar computer program.
7. Most likely Fault Code is "Needle Lift Fault", which means
8. Replace King Injector, that's the one with the electical connection on - think it's number 4.
So far I have got the number 2 and Im working this weekend so it will have to wait.
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Hi, ref. lumpy tick over, as no warning lights appear would that suggest that it may not be an electrical problem? after I checked everything I could.
I had this problem for a long time & I was always using supermarket fuel. I ran as low as possible then filled up with a branded fuel, ran low again & refilled with branded fuel i.e. not supermarket fuel. The problem has disappeared, can I ask what fuel are you using when the lumpy tick over happens?
Or was I just lucky & it was a coincidence? Sorry I am not going to do a test & refill with supermarket fuel. (There is good whisky & cheap whisky it?s still whisky)
Regards Travis
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To continue from No. 5. and having found all the electric connections were fine I continued. Removed the plastic top engine cover held by, three allen bolts, to allow easy access to the electrical connection from injector 4. Unplugged injector by pushing in the chrome clip first. Measured the resistance at 0.00 ohms - Houston We Have a Problem! To be sure released the diesel pipe by two flats only wearing goggles - eyes don't respond well to diesel spray! Revved the engine, sounded fine and the bag of nails gone! Removed air intake and inlet manifold. Replaced the injector and checked the numbers match. Don't rely on Registration details or Chassis numbers, mine were wrong. Just to sure also replace the Leak-Off piping - mine was very brittle and for the sake of £5 why not. Bled injector an Low and Behold problem solved!
Edited by 4x4 George on 27/08/2008 at 22:09
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Congratulations, It's always nice to solve a problem!
Perhaps I shouldn't ask, but was the number 4 injector very VERY expensive, or just expensive? Do you have the name of a 'useful' supplier to pass on, for anyone in your neighbourhood?
In this thread, peoples description of the problem they experience has varied, and I've come to the conclusion that we might have been discussing different problems on different cars.
How did the problem you have solved present itself originally?
Thanks
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"Okay can you please inform what a MIL light is and where can it be seen?"
We have fallen into the trap of using MIL as a generic term, possibly through writing too often to the Americans :-)
Referring to the 1999 Owners Handbook Section 2, Controls and Instruments, Warning Lights.
Check engine - AMBER
The light illuminates when the starter is turned to position ?II? as a bulb check and extinguishes when the engine is running. Illumination at any other time indicates an engine fault; if the light illuminates while driving, avoid high speeds and seek qualified assistance urgently.
For the 1999 Model Year this Check Engine Light (also CEL) is the outline of the side view of an engine block (used for both Petrol and Diesel engines).
Earlier diesel engined versions (95 and 96 Model Year, I think) had a picture of an injector spraying fuel.
This CEL is what we have been referring to with the generic term 'MIL'.
"what I do not understand is why it takes a while for this symptom to occur, on a trip of a few miles it does not occur, so the temperature of the engine must be a factor??"
Well, Yes, I don't understand exactly what you are struggling with here.
Let us agree temperature is a factor. It could be :
Electronics only going faulty when warm.
Or it could be something mechanical (DMF?) only gaining enough clearance to be sloppy when it's expanded due to heat.
Or it could be a combination of a worn injector pump becoming more inefficient when hot, allowing the hot thin fuel to leak past the plunger, delivering insufficient fuel to the injector, which opens at the wrong time because the pressure build is slow.
Or it could be a 'poor fuelling' problem (not specified exactly) which is masked by the extra fuel supplied when the engine is cold.
So, temperature of the engine is a clue, but does not definite the fault exactly.
"I tend to leave the maintenance to someone more knowledgeable."
OK, but that's starting to look like a sick joke, as he isn't knowledgeable enough, despite being paid for his knowledge.
At this stage, if nothing else has become apparent (faults recorded, lights flashing) I'd suggest you ask for the tickover speed to be raised. This is done electronically via whatever test equipment he is using. Typically speed will rise from 750 +/- 50 to 800 +/- 50.
I accept this may only be hiding the problem, or minimising it until the problem gets worse, but it may give a more acceptable driving experience until the problem becomes severe enough for us to be more certain of what exactly is wrong.
Looking back, I'm tempted to say that if you don't have the CEL flashing at all, nor any recorded faults, then the fault isn't the same as I found (the electronics within the pump).
I don't feel like guessing what the alternative problem is.
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Not any further forward at the moment although I have bought a FIP sprocket removal tool..no not the 'proper' one for 80 to 90 quid but a 'Laser 4064 Diesel Injection Pump Puller' which fits the sprocket ( i have a spare sprocket on the pump I bought) and is the correct diameter to fit through the timing case..it is too short but a deep socket and a longer M12 extractor bolt will sort that out, 15 quid off ebay
I digress.. I have been quoted 350 inc vat for an after market DMF which is a good price compared to L.R. ! Don't know their source but it's from 'someone in Manchester'
So at the moment I have not changed the FIP or the DMF but am living with the problem but I think I will go for the DMF and clutch change first as the clutch needs looking at anyway
"So, temperature of the engine is a clue, but does not definite the fault exactly"
Exactly..now if it is a viscous coupling it would explain it as my fault does not occur until after a run when the gearbox has reached a higher temperature. But as you and my local 'experts' say these modern DMF's use springs. Thanks for the uTube link by the way..excellent.
We don't seem to be getting any feedback on whether the others have manual or auto boxes..obviously if it occurs on a auto it cannot be the DMF.
Edited by mekon on 16/08/2008 at 10:47
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Okay just a quick update on my problem.
Car is going in for attention Thursday.
My local said that he thought the symptoms were better described as a missfire!!
I had been for a run and the car started to act up ,so I popped it round to him so that he could hear and see the fault in action.
Said he would check out the injectors , as one could be slightly off??
Will try and pick his brains and give you all the low down when I have had this work done.
Thank you all for you views and input, BOOTSIE
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hey c'mon Bootsie gone a bit quiet haven't you ? found the cure and keeping it yourself hey? !
Not progressed any on my problem yet due to holidays and doing a few other jobs on the rangie for the mot so have been 'living with it'...but must get on with it..
look forward to hearing what your outcome was/is..mekon
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hey c'mon Bootsie gone a bit quiet haven't you ?
Last visited forum: Tue 2 Sep 2008
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To change the idle fueling, you need to loosen the screws on the cover (one is usually a security bolt such as a triangle) and move/slide the cover a tiny amount and retighten, obviously use the proper instructions, otherwise you can get a runaway situation.
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"... obviously use the proper instructions, ..."
And where might those be found, please? (IE, can you supply?).
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Hello,
I have zipped some pdfs and put them here
www.geocities.com/krustycola/index.html
just click anywhere to download.
one called pumpen.pdf has some rudimentary instructions, but the proper ones I used to have were on the Vauxhall TIS system which I used to have (for Vauxhall Omega with BMW M51 engine)
e.g.
cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1302...3
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Finally went for it and changed my DMF and clutch in the P38 over the xmas period.
Got all the bits from these people..they rang me to let me know they had sent the wrong flywheel but had it replaced with the correct one in less than 24 hours..good service 10/10
www.buypartsby.co.uk/dual-mass-flywheel-details.ph...0
The clutch friction plate was completley shot, the friction material had come away from the plate on one side, the release bearing retaining ring clip had broken up and the flywheel had quite a bit of play..I have posted a video clip of the old and new DMF showing the play on utube.
uk.youtube.com/watch?v=3vENIk8UXQs
Trust me it's hard work on the floor without a ramp or pit. I used an engine lift through the drivers door with the front of the car on ramps. There is a removable panel on the tunnel that allows access with the lift. Even so not a job for the faint hearted!
The up side is its sooo nice to drive now with the new clutch, the down side is 'er indoors reckons she can now drive it! Oh well can't win em all
Thanks for all the input .fingers crossed that the 'fault' is cured..I still have the spare Fuel injection pump on standby just in case !
Edited by mekon on 29/12/2008 at 10:22
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Well Done, it's not pleasant working in garage at this time of year.
I've looked at your YouTube posting, and the thought occurs that for anyone else they might be able to check the play without doing dismantling, providing they can see the starter ring gear. The worst case is that they have to take out the starter motor.
Hmm, no, not so easy. I assume the ring gear is fastened to the half of the DMF bolted rigidly to the flywheel, so as well as watching that to see it 'doesn't move'; there is also the need to move the clutch side. Perhaps there's access via the hole in the bell housing that accommodates the clutch operating arm?
With no direct access to the gearbox output shaft, there is a lot of possible slack in both the gear train and the Morse chain.
Basically the main gearbox needs to be in 4th gear (direct, less slop), the front propshaft disconnected at the T'box end, hand brake off, with one rear wheel in the air.
Turning the T'box output flange would be transmitted via the T'box gearing, the Morse chain, the main gearbox gearing, back to the clutch cover, and the 'other half' of the DMF.
Are you going to cut open the DMF to see exactly what wear / breakage there is inside?
Make a good pairing (response) to your existing YouTube post :-)
Cheers
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hi..I did consider trying to check for play before taking out the 'box but as you suggest there would be too many other areas in the gear/chain train for wear/play to occur it would be impossible to determine where the play was.
It does seem though if the car is approaching 100,000 miles be prepared to change the DMF ! The clutch was completly knackered making engaging first and reverse very difficult so the gearbox had to come out anyway
Yes the starter ring gear is attatched to the half of the DMF bolted rigidly to the flywheel
There is no access into the bell housing via the clutch release operating arm rod as it is a sliding fit through machined castings in either side of the housing.
I will be cutting up the DMF when I get the time and will post the results on uTube with a link from here
bfn
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hi everybody!
i am a newbie from switzerland and i am driving a range rover 2.5 (year 2000).
i have a problem with the electronical system.
when the car is not moving more then 72 hours, the battery is completely empty
and then i have to recode the alarm system through the lock of the door.
i already bought a brand new and very good battery, but it happened again.
after that, my garage gave it to an electrician, but whatever he did, they couldn't figure
the problem out.
once in a while the ligt bulbof the parking light damages and the big interior light has a loose contact, but i told that alreadythe guys from the garage, too.
now i have to move that car every 60-70 hours and everythings fine.
but that's the problem is still not solved yet.
any advise anybody?
thanks a lot
t
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 29/01/2009 at 00:42
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my rr always went flat if i forgot to lower suspension completely when parking up,,
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I wish I had seen all the previous posts as I could have told you all that the dual mass flywheel fitted to the 2.5DSE is faulty by design and saved all the months of postings. The coupling material in the flywheel is affected by heat. After driving some distance so that the whole engine gets fully hot, the problem occurs after stopping at a halt sign etc. The classic give-away is touching the throttle or just blipping the throttle it clears it. Other dual mass flywheels fitted to Fords, Audis etc. are also giving trouble and U-tube has some goo videos of faulty flywheels. Basically they are crap and Land Rover should be replacing them free, but I don't think pigs really fly. In the case of other makes of vehciles, there are after market single mass flywheels available but I have not found one to fit the P8 2.5DSE Range Rover so I still have my fault. The only thing I have seen on diagnostics that could be used as an indication is the wide variation in timing modulation and fuel quantity between a cold engine and a faulty hot one, using a Rovacom Lite diagnostic system. No error codes are logged as of course there is nothing wrong with the EMS system - all the inputs and outputs are functioning normally - it's just that the EMS is trying to compensate for the wobble on the flywheel which presumably causes erratic crankshaft position pulses. I was in touch with another owner who took the gamble of changing flywheel/clutch assembly at cost of over £1000. It cured his problem totally and examination of the old flywheel proved the flywheel was the problem. Regarding the Swiss owner with the battery discharge problem, the radio antenna amplifier on earlier models has been superseded as the earlier ones were activated by WiFi signals from computer systems. This leads to discharge of the battery over about 2 days when it occurs regularly. If anyone knows of a single mass flywheel that will fit the 2.5DSE please post the information as this is a regular problem only on manual 2.5 DSE range rovers.
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I had exactly the same issue on a 2000 P38, lumpy idle when coming to a halt with the engine warm.
It was a fueling issue related to the fuel pump in the tank. The solution was to lower the idle speed, it is now on it's lowest setting and I have no symptoms.
It seems that over time a valve in the the pump wears at a given point on it's travel causing poor fueling, the effects of which are noticeable at idle, altering the idle speed means the valve tends to sit at a slightly different point reducing or eliminating the effect. Obviously the pump is still worn and eventually it will wear further at the new setting and need replaced but mine has been fine now for the last 15,000 miles.
The issue can be further exacerbated by the pump becoming less efficient as it wears and struggling to pump the fuel against the vacuum in the tank, particularly as the fuel gets less viscous as it warms. Not doing up the filler cap tightly or drilling a small hole in it will stop the tank pulling a vacuum and ease the load on the pump.
Best of luck
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Hello Tuaruin, can I ask you did you had same problem as it was described as the topic ?
"My Local independent ,has not managed to isolate this problem.
The BMW diesel looses its tickover when hot, i.e. on a fairly long run ,you might stop for traffic lights and the engine looses its smooth tickover when your foot comes off the accelerator ,it needs a blip on the throttle to recover the rhythm,itdoesnt always happen , any thoughts welcome. Bootsie"
Because I have P38 1997 2.5 DSE with manual gearbox, it been already two year as I can't solve this problem, as I start the engine everything works just perfect, after it gets working temperature, engine starts to shake like crazy, but if I press acceleration pedal up to 1000 rpm, engine starts to work again, so don't want to write a long list what have I done already, but I've done everything what was in that discussion writing about and I already spend more then €2000 and my car almost IN PERFECT condition especially by changing so many parts in the process to find out the problem, so even yesterday my mechanic changed all new German BOSCH fuel injectors and problem still exists, so only one thing I didn't tried yet it's what you wrote here about fuel tank pump, so the question is that you had same same problem as the topic of this forum talks ?
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Tuaruin hasn't posted on the forum again so I doubt will see your question. [Xileno, moderator]
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I tried (with full tank of diesel) yesterday to take out fuse 39 (gas tank fuse) under the hood, just to see if that will fix the problem and then I would plan to change the gas tank pump. So it didn't, the problem still exists!
Thank you so much guys to all of you for sharing all of that invaluable info.
So I'll order new flywheel and I'll be changing it soon, so fingers crossed and many stressful days will be over I hope, at one stage I was thinking just to sell my car by parts, because they're almost all new already ?? (just couldn't sell whole car to other person with that mystery problem in it.
p.s. I also changed my clutch year ago as it was done already.
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hi diversgold..Although I understand some say the coupling material in the flywheel is affected by heat I have yet to cut the old flywheel apart to see what this material is ! mine just seemed to be excessive internal spring play if you look at the post i put on uTube.
All I can put it down to is possibly the tickover is higher when the engine is cold so the problem didn't manifest itself until the engine heats up and the tickover drops
I searched for some time for a solid flywheel conversion but no joy so I went for the replacement DMF and clutch as it should now last another 100,000 miles and probably see me out !!
Over A grand for a replacement?..I guess that was fitted by a garage then..my parts cost me £540 inc vat
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I have put the repair job of changing the DMF on my P38 onto my web-site to help anyone doing it themself. I saved a lot of money by doing it on the flat with a modified 2 ton conventional jack and another pair of hands (and boots) to help. It cured my faulty tick-over, although I expect it will return after another 90,000 miles or so as the fault is due to either the crap flywheel design or poor construction materials. LUK were completely unhelpful advising what the problem with their crappy flywheel is and even started making legal threats if I left personal emails of their people on my web-site. In my opinion, LUK and Land Rover encompass everything that is really bad in the motor industry, but I still love the workhorse capabilities of the P38 despite its high level of technical problems. See the repair job at www.richardbufton.co.uk/Range%20Rover-Projects.html
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Hey, please could you send me new link of your fix, because that one which you gave doesn't work anymore ??
Thank you !
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diversgold hasn't posted on the forum again so I doubt will see your question. [Xileno, moderator]
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