My 2 1/2 yr old 44000 mile 2.0l VW Bora Sport has a very high oil consumption - not quite up to the litre per 1000 km which VW say can be experienced
When i became aware of this (just after pulling on to the motorway when the oil warning light came on !), I looked at the manual, which specfies oil only in terms of VW specifications ( VW 500 00 or VW 502 00) - not a lot of good when you're 20+ miles from the nearest VW dealer
I rang the dealer and said it needs 15w40 semi-synthetic - fine, I was near an accessories shop, got 5l of Comma xt2000, as per spec. Now I've used that, I can't find any comma retailers in my area, and the only 15W40 i can find is in Halfords and is described as 'mineral based' - so presumably not semi-synthetic
What should I be putting in it ? Should I be putting cheap(ish) stuff in it, because it's not in the engine very long, or should I be putting expensive stuff in ?
Can you mix synthetic/semi synthetic/mineral oils ?
Who else makes a 15w40 semi-synthetic besides comma ?
if I can't find that, what is the best thing to replace it with ?
M
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There are plenty of semi-synthetics on the market. GTX Magnatec, Esso Ultra, to name but two. Both these meet VW 505.00 spec. Halford do an 'own brand' semi-syn, and it was stated recently on this site it's probably Esso. Anything that meets ACEA A3/B3 spec will be at least a semi-synthetic.
They are both usually 10/40 (although I believe a 15/40 GTX is available), but I believe that 10/40 would be fine in the VW. It won't affect oil consumption as the hot viscosity is still 40, and will improve cold start lubrication.
Start reading the backs of a few cans!
Regards
John S
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Exactly what I was going to say John!
Many oils meet the VW spec
MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org
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Rover also reckon 1 litre per 1000 miles is acceptable consumption for my 200PS T turbo. Personally if I were experiencing this level of consumption regularly I would be investigating the cause. Is it leaking it or burning it? If burning it, are you heavy on the throttle, especially when cold? Piston rings and turbo would be prime suspects. I\'d also be concerned about catalyst life. As I understand it oil poisons the cat, whether it gets there as droplets or fumes.
As for choice of oil, as long as the number after the W is 40 the oil will be OK in your motor. This is the number representing viscosity when hot. All oils are more viscous when cold and the cold viscosity is indicated by the number before the W (eg 5W or 10W). Using an oil with a winter rating lower than the 15W specified will mean oil getting around your engine quicker when cold, as well as reduced strain on the starter circuit. The viscosity also falls faster as the oil warms. Even a 0W will be considerably more viscous cold than 40 is when hot. My T turbo is specified for 10W40 - I use Mobil 1 0W40 and winter starts are noticeably easier with this than semi-synth 10W40s.
Valvoline do a 10W40 called Max Life, which is designed for higher mileage engines to cut consumption and rejuvenate oil seals. The wifes Metro runs very well on this oil and it keeps the engine very clean (www.valvolineeurope.com if your local factor doesn\'t have it). Halfords fully synthetic is made by Esso, but I don\'t know if that\'s also true for their part synthetic.
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Well, my 309 has done 75000 miles and in 3000 miles I have added 1/2 a litre on the absolute outside. It does stop start journeys and is sometimes driven hard on the back roads.. When I had a Polo I was worried by the litre every 1000 it was using.
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It appears that VAG motors do thirst for oil,- my son has just got rid of a 2.8 Audi A4 Quattro that was burning 1 litre per 1000 miles, which Audi deemed was quite acceptable. Well in my book it most certainly is`nt,- so he has switched to a BMW 530d, and the consumption to date, after 3000 miles is negligible.
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BTW, does fully synth look like, errm, -oil- when in the coolant, or does it look like something else?
I ask this as the Monterey has a pretty serious leak from the rear crankshaft seal and sprays synth oil on bits of the underside. It turns into a kind of Waxoyl-type stuff, rather than the leaking oil sludge known to those of us who have ridden British Bikes.
I never want to see it in the coolant. Not ever. But if it does turn up, what doues it look like?
And, to repeatthe question at the top of the thread, is it OK to mix semi-synth. with fully synth?
Are Halfords still doing the fully synth at £19.95? They were the other week in Farnborough, Hants, but seem to have stopped it locally (Stockton on Tees).
Rob
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Halfords are still doing full synth for £20 at their Rugby store (or at least they were yesterday).
I've never experienced oil in the water personally, but a friend reckons you would see a film of oil on top of the water in the expansion bottle.
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Rob
No technical problem in mixing semi synth with fully synth, or indeed with normal mineral, although it's a waste of the extra cost of the expensive stuff.
I'd have expected oil in the coolant to look the same whatever its origin but, that said, I've never seen the result - and like you I don't want to!
I wonder if the appearance of the oil under tha car is more a result of some reaction with the underbody protection?
Regards
john
Regards
John S
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Rob,
Have you checked out your engine breather system with regard to the leaking rear seal. On a car where otherwise you wouldn't expect a terrible oil leak this can be the fault.
Customer had it on a Granada while towing. Covered the whole caravan front with an oil haze and he thought the engine was a scrapper.
It was just a completely blocked breather system...short run gunge actually.
Oil in the coolant can look like a sheen or the emulsion mentioned above found in the filler cap from short runs.
David W
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David,
You may be reassured that my father, who worked in the motor trade from 1928 to 1984 (yep, 56 yrs..)thought of that straight away.
However, leaky rear seal is a common fault, it seems. Not helped by the 5/40-grade Halfords Fully Syth being used. There is a modified oil seal available to cure the problem.
Another oil question; does synthetic oil have a known detrimental effect on oil seals, compared to other types of oil? I noticed mention in an earlier post about an oil for mature engines which helps to "keep seals sealed".
I am hampered by lack of workshop manual, time to root around and find the breather with a mk1 eyeball. Despite their size, the engine bay is pretty tight. I still think "Vauxhall Viva" and expect the breather to be quaintly fastened to the top of the rocker cover. Not so. Any clues as to where it might be on the 3059cc Isuzu lump?
And does anyone know of an owners club/workshop manual for less than £800.00 (yes, seriously..)
Rob
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Looking more carefully at your posting I feel I read between the lines that you have only recently bought the car.
Had a chance to chat with some automotive colleagues this weekend (chassis and electrical specialists, but all confirmed petrol heads) and they all agreed that if you are consuming 1 litre per 1000 miles then this is very bad. Sounds like a rebuild is in order.
If you have just got it and you have got some warranty then take it back and tell them its using more than 1 litre per 1000 and demand they investigate and fix.
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