Should I buy a workshop manual for my Toyota Previa which has an ignition fault?
I have a Toyota Previa II 2.4i 16v Manual 1991 which would run very ragged after warming up. I was advised to get hold of a new coil and No.1 HT lead, which I did. Just before the new parts were put on, I put in a brand new battery. On attempting start up after putting in the new battery, the engine wouldn't start at all and I couldn't hear any firing. I went ahead and installed the new coil and lead anyway and found that whatever happened has meant that I no longer have any spark at all coming from the coil unit through No.1 lead. I have been unable to find any workshop manual information on the electrical system without buying and having one sent, which will take ages and could cost me £20 without even knowing if the situation is rectifiable at all. The car never had any problems at startup prior to this. I don't know if there is a CDi unit or points. I would appreciate any advice or manual pages that you may have.
Asked on 2 August 2010 by surge0n66
Answered by
Alan Ross
Firstly i think that the purchasing of workshop manual, given that you are intending to work on the car for the foreseeable future, is a good thing.
I'm not sure why if the engine was running ragged. Did one assume that the coil needed renewing? If the car started then the coil must have been producing a spark. Anyway, now that you have renewed the coil and number 1 lead (why just number 1? why not all the HT leads?) I would suggest that to start with you remove the king lead from the top of the distributor, hold it approximately one inch from a point of the engine that will give a good earth (engine block etc), and turn the engine over. You should get a good healthy spark. If you do, then you need to move to the distributor. If you don't, then go back to the coil.
Did you fit it with the correct polarity? That is, given that your car has negative earth system that the wire from the coil to the distributor is connected to the terminal marked 'negative'. Then the wire from the ign switch to the coil should be connected to the terminal marked 'positive'. If you still are not getting any spark at the king lead, then you need to check that you have a live feed going into the coil (at the positive end). If so, with the ignition switched on, you should have a feed coming out of the coil from the negative terminal. If all of these checks are good, and you are still not getting a HT spark, it would appear that you have a fault at the distributor.
As you say you are not sure of what type, I cannot then write up all the checks for differing types of distributor. What you should do is carry out a visual check - look at the rotor arm, check the segments, check the cap for signs of cracks etc. After that, if still no go, then you would need a workshop manual which will explain in detail how and what to do. One piece of advice would be to make sure that whoever is advising you on your car is suitably qualified and not just having a good guess.
I'm not sure why if the engine was running ragged. Did one assume that the coil needed renewing? If the car started then the coil must have been producing a spark. Anyway, now that you have renewed the coil and number 1 lead (why just number 1? why not all the HT leads?) I would suggest that to start with you remove the king lead from the top of the distributor, hold it approximately one inch from a point of the engine that will give a good earth (engine block etc), and turn the engine over. You should get a good healthy spark. If you do, then you need to move to the distributor. If you don't, then go back to the coil.
Did you fit it with the correct polarity? That is, given that your car has negative earth system that the wire from the coil to the distributor is connected to the terminal marked 'negative'. Then the wire from the ign switch to the coil should be connected to the terminal marked 'positive'. If you still are not getting any spark at the king lead, then you need to check that you have a live feed going into the coil (at the positive end). If so, with the ignition switched on, you should have a feed coming out of the coil from the negative terminal. If all of these checks are good, and you are still not getting a HT spark, it would appear that you have a fault at the distributor.
As you say you are not sure of what type, I cannot then write up all the checks for differing types of distributor. What you should do is carry out a visual check - look at the rotor arm, check the segments, check the cap for signs of cracks etc. After that, if still no go, then you would need a workshop manual which will explain in detail how and what to do. One piece of advice would be to make sure that whoever is advising you on your car is suitably qualified and not just having a good guess.
Looking for a garage you can trust? Honest John's Good Garage Guide has thousands of reader recommended garages, plus how-to guides and tips on servicing.
The Good Garage GuideSimilar questions
My 2001 Renault Clio has recently been having trouble starting. I can get in the car one time and it will start fine, the next I attempt to start the engine, turn the key fully, and there is absolutely...
I have a 1987 Mk1 Karman Golf that cut out suddenly and I haven't been able to get it started since. I called out a roadside rescue mechanic who checked the distributor and rotator arm, and he cleaned...
There are two relays in the engine compartment of my Peugeot 206. They are in the wiring loom behind the nearside headlight in grey connectors. One has burnt out but I can't find out what they do. Can...
Elsewhere on 
.jpg)
