My trusty ZX decided to split a CV joint boot and slowly dry up just before the MOT. I bought a complete new shaft, (front OS)and boot as it was 10 squids cheaper than just the joint. My local garage then fitted it for 15 squids.
This lasted 48 hours. The engine started to vibrate violently on acceleration. However was okay at steady speed or deceleration. I got an exchange shaft again, being told, "It must have been a manufacturing glitch, the shaft could be slightly twisted".
Anyway, a fortnight passes and I forget about things. On my way back from Leeds, over the dubiously sited and sized speed humps (see previous thread), the gearstick starts to vibrate violently. I experiment whilst driving to try to narrow the possible causes. The harder the acceleration or deceleration, the larger and violent the amplitude of the gearstick. A very steady speed minimised the movements to nil. My deduction was an engine mounting.
My local garage took it for a spin, confirmed my diagnosis, then got it up on the ramps. All mountings OK. After head scratching the front OS driveshaft was changed yet again, and problem solved.
I have had the original Citroen driveshaft on for 143k miles, yet the first lasts 48hours, the second 14days. Hmmm.
Can anyone shed any light as to why I am having these repeated problems?
Is the OS front driveshaft a dificult part to manufacture correctly?
Is the autofactor I use substituting dodgy parts for what I ask for?
Are they a bu**er to fit properly?
Would a Citroen original be worth the extra? (more reliable)
Have I been unlucky?
Simon
A mystified ZX fan.
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I'm also a ZX convert (not because they're citroen but because they're Peugeot 306 based). Mine's done 185K miles on it's first driveshafts which I've recently changed due to a really annoying 70mph+ vibration. Both the old d/shafts were fine and I've yet to cure the problem but I have heard of OE shafts failing as early as 70K miles. My replacements were GKN sourced from eurocarparts.com.- good service and good prices (although I'm having problems getting the exchange deposit back as it costs a bit to get a d/shaft back to them by post and I'm sure they agreed to "return courier" pick them up but later changed their minds). The O/S d/s is more difficult to fit as it has a central support (intermediate) bearing (there are 3x UV joints as opposed to 2 on the N/S so I suppose there is an increased risk of failure). That said the GKN d/shafts are fine and provided the diff seals are changed at the time (contrary to what some citroen dealers recommend!) should not give trouble. What make was your replacement? I lost confidence in recon shafts when I got one that had completely mangled splines at the g/box end and could not be fitted - false economy. Try eurocarparts.com. Not related but useful is to check your rad at each service - if it's older than 3 years/80k miles you should change as a routine job in the same way you'd do the timing belt at each 40K). Other equally tedious tips include running fully synthetic oil and religiously changing at 6K - it's cheaper in the long run!
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TC,
The shafts were both remanufactured ones sourced from Andrew Page in York. I did not notice the make, but was assured that there was no real disadvantage with them. However, I am making sure I hang on to all bits of paper regarding the exchanges, as I seem to think I might need the years warranty...
I too chose the ZX for its 'cheaper Pug 306, but with the same engine' qualities. I would have another if this decided to die on me. I bought it 3 years ago for 2600 with 95k, put over 50k on the clock, and have spent 300 a year in servicing. This includes two timing belts, tyres, an exhaust and the PS pump.
I change the oil & filters every 6k plus use Millers DieselClean. It seems to do the trick.
Best car I will ever own, cheap to run, fast acceleration, quiet, and never likely to get stolen. Unfortunately, in the next month or so the advert in the local paper will say 'Company car forces sale'.
Ho hum.
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Simon,
I would stick to major major brands or OE for replacement shafts.
Have just been looking at a Land Rover prior to MOT.
Last year, and only 1500 miles ago, this had an exchange steering box (sourced by customer) of a known but not top brand. Her old box was leaking oil from the bottom seal but was otherwise fine with little play.
When I fitted the exchange unit the play semed worse than before but at least it held oil OK. Now just 1500 miles on the free play is terrible, quite dangerous to drive. When you try to adjust the strg box it either has too much play or goes tight. This is a sure sign of a worn high mileage unit. I bet all they did was to replace the oil seal, spray it black and re-fill with new oil. This cost the customer over £225 just for the part and now she really needs another.
I hate people supplying parts for work I'm doing, personally I'm very careful to use a known top brand for all parts....it saves a lot of aggro in the long run.
David
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A couple of years ago a friend of mine decided to change his Orion engine. Listed in the Exchange and Mart are scores of engine reconditioners. Naturally enough he was attracted to a full page advert, fully guaranteed engines, mid range prices and a local distributor / agent. I saw the engine prior to it's 'free' fitting at the local workshop. The oil pump had been sprayed with silver wheel paint ! When I asked the manager what HAD been reconditioned, he told me 'anything that's needed'. After a short running in period of loose engine mountings and bell housing bolts, oil leaks and misfires, things seemed to settle down a bit. Then it developed a noisier than usual tappet. Back to the local workshop, quick diagnosis by the manager, and under the terms of the guarantee, my friend was given a 'good' used hydraulic lifter. To be fitted by himself !
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I sometimes have the same problem with customers supplying own parts, usually to save a few quid. I always point out no warranty, and labour charges should the parts be wrong or fail. This is especialy true of compressors, as there are more than a few recon ones around, and in my opinion, they're all rubbish. The compressor has a hard enough time working with a system that is a bit old and tired anyway, without substituting a poor quality replacement.
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We have come across poor quality driveshafts for Citroen & Peugeot.
It seems to be something to do with wear within the tripode joint at each end.
They then run out of line (& balance) and cause this horrible vibration.
I would only use new GKN or Citroen OE shafts as replacements - they may be more expensive but you'll only do the job once....
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We had exactly the same problem with a Renault 19 n/s shaft.
The pair of shafts were replaced on buying the car as they had a fair amount of wear in them. The first replacement (not OEM) went after 1000 miles and the replacement for that (a Renault part) went within another 1000 miles.
After the engine mountings, suspension, chassis, were checked for damage the shaft was again replaced (Renault part again) and this survived satisfactorily for about 6000 miles until the car was sold.
I wonder if your suggestion that it is due to manufacturing faults and do the parts all really come from the same source anyway?
Regards,
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I think many driveshafts, even from decent suppliers, are exchange units. They obviously inspect the old units and retain the parts that are still "in spec". Because the outer CV joint is the one that usually wears first I think many of the inner joints are retained as apparently OK.
For some reason these inner joints can often then give rise to vibration soon after re-fitting. Not the traditional and obvious clack clack of a failed outer joint, just a hard to trace grumble.
Hence other components are checked/replaced before the "new" shaft is suspected.
I've had some odd problems in the past cleaning up old driveshaft joints prior to re-greasing (say where the gaiter has split and dirt ingress followed). For some reason they have gone tight and no amount of grease makes them feel as free as when they were full of old grease and grit. Odd.
David
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