Ive just put a head on a 1.8 td escort, Im struggling to find the timing marker for the bottom end. Can anyone shed any light? I know its done via a 43mm pin through the block but I cant find the access hole. Its the twin belt type engine, the pump belt is still in place and with the pump on its marker (hole at 12oclock) I have set the camshaft at its correct position. The engin turns over correctly at this point by hand, no knocking valves etc but the engine will not start. I am thinking maybe the timing isnt correct.
Can anyone help? autodata diagrams are useless.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 27/04/2009 at 20:39
|
|
I've just done one on an earlier engine and couldn't find any indication of timing at all, so I marked the sprockets with paint. If its turning over OK I would suggest that the camshaft is 180 degrees out with the pump so its injecting on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression, assuming that it is injecting fuel.
|
|
Sorry, I'm talking rubbish - both sprockets are the same size! If it turns over OK I don't think the camshaft timing would be far enough out to stop it starting, so, assuming it is injecting fuel - slacken off an injector pipe to see, I would think that the pump timing must be wrong. Do you get any smoke when it turns over?
|
There's a plug towards the lower right hand side of the block as you look from the crank pulley end of the engine. The pin pushes into the block, and locates against a cut-out in the crank web.
However, if you've timed it against the undisturbed? injector pump, it should be good enough to run.
Why did you take the head off?
|
the belt snapped between cam and crank mashing the valves. Ive fit a known good head. We towed it off last night and it started but hunted at idle and knocked like crazy when revved. Sounded much like too much advance on the pump. So tonight Ive re-timed the pump but it still wont start on the button. Ive made use of the vernier pulley and tried both advance and retard on the fuel pump with no difference whatsoever!!
Any more suggestions?
I found the hole and use the timing pin. Can the crank only lock in one place on the pin?
|
Screw the pin in hand tight, and turn the crank gently clockwise by hand until it stops. As NC says, there's a machined web on the crank which butts up against the pin when cylinder 1 is at TDC. The pin doesn't lock the crank as such, just stops it from turning past the right point.
Pop the cam cover off, and check the offset slot at the tail end of the cam. It should be perfectly horizontal, and aligned so that you can engage a straight edge (metal rule or similar) with the slot, and rest it on the edge of the cam housing.
With cam and crank timed, the timing hole on the pump sprocket should be aligned with the timing hole in its backplate. You can use a drill bit as a timing pin for this, but I can't for the life of me remember what size.
Cheers
DP
Edited by DP on 27/04/2009 at 22:34
|
I have timed it just as you say, mu concern is that there may be somewhere else on the webbing that the timing pin may come up against and in actual fact I dont have the bottom end at tdc. Although the fact it runs when towed off suggests the timing is about right.
The pump timing must be a mile out though as it wont start on the key unless cranked for 5 - 10 mins with several blasts during off the glowplugs. Its very frustrating now. Ive tried adjusting the pump timing with no success at all. In any position (been round 360 degrees) it remains the same.
|
|
sorry to bump this but its still stuck on my driveway. Anyone?
|
He, im stuck with the same problem. Cant even find the crank timing pin hole...
Can someone to me a tep by tep manual how to timing my ford?
Thanks!
|
|
its behind the alternator ,you need to take alternator off
|
Thank you!
And can you tell me how can I time the camshaft?
much obliged!
ps. sry for my bad english,
|
Take off the cam cover. Check the tail end of the camshaft (i.e. not the cambelt end) for an offset slot. With the cam timed correctly, the offset slot should be perfectly horizontal and level with mating surface on the cylinder head for the cam cover. The official timing tool is a piece of metal plate which rests on the cylinder head surface and engages snugly with this slot. In practice, any piece of metal plate of the correct thickness, and packed equally either side (old feeler gauges are perfect) will do the trick.
|
