I'll try to keep this as short as possible, but I need to tell you all of the facts. Had a leak in the radiator. Put in raidiator leak stop a few times. My wife didn't top it uo one day and drove for a while with the temp gauge in the red. After this, the heat would work for a while then stop and the engine would begin to heat up. Sometimes the heat would come back on and the engine would cool right down. Other times I would have to pull over, loosen the fill cap, water would hiss and bubble out and then I would top it up with fresh water.
As soon as I would start it again, the engine would be cooler, and the heat would be back on.
Anyway, Replaced the radiator with a used one, drained the system, put in a new thermostat housing and thermostat, & new water pump.
Still over heating and not overheating. Heat comes on and soon goes off.
Took out the thermostat all together, but still the same unpredictable scenario.
I could drive 15 miles with no problem. Another day I would only go 5 or 10 and it would overheat.
Someone said that the cylander head might have warped, letting air into the system. Could this be causing the Problem. I need this jeep and I don't know what to do. Going to a Land Rover Repair shop is out of the Question. To much $$$$.
Can anyone help?
Thanks
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you ( ok the wife) have cooked the engine and blown the head gasket.
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What do you mean the heat goes on and off? The HEATER?
Do you mean the temperature gauge goes up and down? If so, don't forget the gauge only represents the part of the system where the sensor is, so if it is blocked up with all those bottles of stop leak and the hot water no longer flows over the sensor, it may appear cool but really be very hot. This also occurs when water pump's impellers fail and the temp sensor is in the radiator.
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Yes. I mean the Temperature gauge goes up and the Heat, ie, heater, heat in the jeep goes on and off. Like I said, I replaced the radiator, Circulation/water pump, thermostat housing and thermostat.
What do you think? Why is it still overheating?
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Thanks for your reply. You say the wife...err me...I mean the wife cooked the engine and blew the head gasket. How bad is that. There is no loss of compression, or performance. No white smoke.
Do I just have to take off the head gasket, machine it down, and put it all back together again? or have I caused permanent damage?
Can you tell me just how the engine overheats when the head gasket is blown. Does it let air into the cooling system?
Some of the pipes aren't even hot, and they seem to be filled with presurized air instead of water.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 05/03/2009 at 20:58
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I also suspect you have head gasket failure,but maybe there is an air lock in the cooling system? Are you 100% sure it has been bled properly,assuming it isn't self bleeding?
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SpamCan is right, an air lock could be there. The use of stopleak fluids won't have helped and may have damaged the water pump as well as sealing up any small passages in the cooling system or head gasket. This happened to me with a Plymouth in the US.
It is usually fairly easy to tell if there is head gasket failure. Remove, with due care, the lid of the header tank, start the engine and rev it gently by hand. If there is HGF the coolant in the tank will surge or foam. If all is correct it won't move. If there's an airlock though watch out for coughing and spluttering and throwing hot coolant about.
Edited by Lud on 05/03/2009 at 21:14
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Be aware that if you go down the line of taking the cylinder head off, check it for warping (due to excess heat), but remember Land Rover do not recommend the skimming of their cylinder heads. Any one who says to the contrary is wrong.
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