Found what I hope is the cause of increasingly noticeable on/off throttle jerkiness and an odd click / clonk sound when taking up drive in reverse, or the first time taking up drive in 1st after reversing - the top engine mount has a dirty great crack down the middle of the rubber, and has acres of freeplay.
I'm going to change it this weekend (parts in stock at GSF) and in the absence of any form of workshop manual for the car, just wanted to confirm it's as straightforward as it looks. Plan is:
Support engine underneath (usual trolley jack / broad bit of wood)
Undo the centre bolt that goes through the rubber.
Undo the three (from memory) bolts that attach the mounting bracket to the cylinder head
Remove mount
Fit new
Reverse of above.
Anything else I need to be aware of?
Cheers as always
DP
Edited by DP on 20/06/2008 at 10:47
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OK, just done the job, and thought I'd post the procedure and outcome in case it helps anyone else. In the absence of a manual, I just did it in the following order which was logical (to me).
1. Slacken and remove the centre bolt which goes through the rubber part of the mount.
2. Undo the 6x T-30 torx screws securing the spark plug / coil cover to the cam cover Annoyingly, two of these screws sit directly underneath the rigid plastic charge pipe which runs over the top of the cam cover to the turbo. I disconnected the hose from the front (jubilee clip, just about accessible from under the air-con pump), and removed the two small torx screws which secure the pipe to the engine. This gave enough slack to move the pipe to one side enough to get on the screws, without disconnecting it from the turbo.
3.There are two more torx screws securing the top of the cambelt cover to the cam cover. Slacken these a few turns, but there's no need to remove them.
4. Remove the oil filler cap (the cover won't clear it!!)
5. Lift the spark plug cover at its free end, disengage the lugs from the cambelt cover, and lift it up and off the engine.
7. Now you have access to all four bolts securing the mounting bracket. Slacken these off (they're tight!!). I used a socket and extension on the front pair, and a ring spanner on the rear pair (no access from directly above). Keep them in order as they're different lengths!
8. Remove the mounting bracket and rubber mount as one piece from the cam cover.
Refitting is a direct reverse of removal, but make sure the spark plug cover engages flush with the cambelt cover. When you re-secure the charge pipe, note that one of the bolts also secures a retaining clip for one of the air-con pipes.
About 30 mins start to finish.
Car is transformed. No more learner driver gearchanges, and all the on-off throttle shunt has gone. Feels much smoother under acceleration as well.
Part cost £40 including delivery from a Volvo specialist parts shop on Ebay. GSF have them on back order at the moment and reckon anything up to 2 months!! Mine wasn't going to wait that long.
The new mount is a modified design with a "square" rubber as opposed to the round item of the original part. Looks much more substantial. You can buy just the rubber part in the same design as the OEM one for £11, but you don't have to be an engineer to understand how this new design is much more suited to the job.
Was horrified at the state of the old one once I got it off and had a close look. The cracks I could see in-situ were just the tip of the iceberg!
Hope this is helpful to someone.
Cheers
DP
Edited by DP on 26/06/2008 at 22:47
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Thanks DP, very useful, i've got an 05 S60 D5 and i think its got the modified one already, but i'm always interested in anything Volvo related.
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Have you the details of the parts supplier.
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Seller's Ebay ID is www-partsmonster-co-uk
Here is a link to the item
cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3800...3
Service was fast and the part exactly as described. I would recommend them.
Cheers
DP
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Hi DP,
Thanks for posting, if you look on the VOC website you'll see this is a pretty common occurrence.
Volvo themselves sell the uprated part and it's about the same price you were quoted.
You've only got the bottom bushes and the drop links to go and you're good for another 100k miles :)
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