Evening all. Just been trying to change the plugs on my 2003 1.2 Ibiza as the originals are still in- managed the first 2 easy enough, not too tightly screwed in but am having real trouble with the third as however hard I dare try it won't turn one bit.
I've given up on it for now as I don't want to snap the plug off but does anyone have any suggestions on how to get it out? Would putting WD40 around it and leaving it for a bit do anything?
Any help gratefully appreciated.
Ben
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Giving it repeated soakings with PlusGas over a period of a few days might help. Might also help to try to loosen it when its hot.
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Huge discussion here
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=37395&...f
re spark plugs stuck in old Ford engines.
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Try getting your engine really hot first, If that doesnt work best to leave it if you have no problems.
Make sure that your engine has cooled again down before fitting new plugs.
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Hi Ben,
First, make yourself a jug of cold water and add some ice cubes to it. Puy in the fridge for a few hours. Go for a drive in your car to get it to normal operating temperature. Then, remove plug cap and pour (very carefully) someof the iced water over the plug. You will find the plug will contract and the cylinder head- being hot will have expanded. You should find the plug easier to remove.
Hope this helps
--
These are the views of Robin the Technician with 35 years in the trade. I fix, therefore I am...
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Hi Ben, First, make yourself a jug of cold water and add some ice cubes to it.
Cool!
DP
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Won't the head also contract around the spark plug?
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Doing this will almost certainly crack the ceramic insulator on the plug, making the vehicle unusable unless the plug comes out. Use a can of freezer spray on the metal body of the plug after getting the engine hot. If you buy a can with a tube attached to the nozzle (like a WD-40 can) you can avoid damaging the plug insulator.
659.
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I windered about the insulator cracking too - the plugs on the engine in question are very deeply recessed.
My daughter's 1.2 Ibiza broke down due to a faulty coil pack (and the replacement failed a week later). Considering how tight the coil packs fit, I was amazed that the plug recess was full of water, and the plug was looking pretty ropey - it came out OK though.
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Thanks for all the replies. Finally managed to get the plug out by taking it for a drive then using the Plusgas trick which worked a treat. It looked like it needed it as the plugs were the original VAG ones so have been in 30000 miles/ 3 yrs and were black all down the thread, but the tip was a light brown colour which I've been told is the colour they should be.
Next job is to change the oil on Saturady which looks to be an easy job- cartridge filter on top of the engine, but I'm not sure what oil to put in it- Comma don't list the car in their catalogue but the resident font of all knowledge at the motor factors I work at reckons Commas Syner-G 5w40 fully synthetic is what it needs.
Question is, what do you guys think?
Ben
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I'd just put a good quality 10w40 semi-synthetic oil in. According to Castrol, that would be fine, as would a 5w30 fully synthetic. Viscosity doesn't matter too much as long as you're not operating in severe temperatures (unlikely in the UK!). There are very few petrol engines that aren't suitable for 10W40 semi-synth (except Fords in particular which require thinner oil). As long as the oil's changed at least annually, that'll be fine. The oil you mention will also be fine IMO.
Make sure you've got the right socket to get the sump plug off, as many modern cars don't just have a straight-forward bolt anymore! I'd be tempted to do the air and fuel filters at the same time - they only cost a few quid each.
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Depends on the mileage and usage of engine.
I don't disagree with comments about oil made above, but would add.
Higher mileage, and or longer distance driving I would recommend the 10/40 in preference to 10/30 in preference to 5/30 (unless you only do short trips, regular cold starts in which case reverse the choices) but it would all be ok. Semi synthetic, but could use fully synthetic; it's just better than it needs (ideally needed for turbo engines).
But my comments are not normally accpeted by others on here !
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Thanks for all the replies- sorted it on Sunday night and put 5w40 fully synthetic in it. Its done 29,000 miles and gets driven for half an hour in a morning to work and then half an hour back again so gets properly warmed through so could have put normal 10w40 in, but as its got a timing chain I thought I may aswell spend a bit more on high quality oil to keep that in top nick.
Ben
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Does anyone use Copper-slip when fitting spark plugs? Heard of it, but never done it personally - does it have any benefit? Would it stop plugs getting stuck tight, as described in this thread?
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Does anyone use Copper-slip when fitting spark plugs?
Yes, virtually every plug I've ever fitted has gone in with a dab of copperslip on the threads and washer/sealing taper.
I would argue that the copperslip does make it easier to overtighten the spark plugs, so I tend to go carefully!
Number_Cruncher
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Copper slip?
Youngest son has 1.1 Fiesta where plugs tend to stick and corrode in head.
I managed to get old plugs out - just - when first bought - by soaling in Plus Gas plus parafin for 2-3 days. Never again so copperslipped all new plugs and tightened gently.
No problems removing plugs since (and it has done 35k miles in 3 years so 2 sets of plugs.
I have a tin which is 90% full and 12 years old!:-)
madf
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Copper-base anti-seize was standard factory practice on turbocharger turbine housing screws and exhaust attachment studs - - - units returned for service or re-manufacturing usually came apart without problems even after years of running at high temperature.
As Number Cruncher points out, manufacturers' torque figures may be for 'dry' threads so due care is needed not to overtighten if copper-ease is used.
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Copper can promote corrosion between steel and aluminium.
Aluminium based anti-seize compounds are available.
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