our 1988 vw polo 1300 went in for its mot today...the c/o was 7.5 so i had a twiddle on the mixture screw and wound it all the way in..managed to get it to a pass level of 2.5% but im a little concerned that its fully wound in
why would the screw need to be fully in to get a sensible level??
the engine doesnt smoke or breath ...and taking off the block breather had little effect on emmisions
PLEASE dont tell me to put a webber on it...i cant afford a weber, but im happy to at least try to work with what ive got
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At the top of the carb - the bit you see first when you take the air filter cover off, there are some brass jets which are air corrector drillings. Get some carb cleaner, and give this area of the carb a really good going over. Use the extension pipe on the aerosol to make sure that the drillings in the air correctors are clear.
Then, when you start the car up, hopefully, it will tick over really badly until you wind the idle mixture screw back out to somewhere reasonable.
IMHO, most of the time when people are being recommended to change for a Weber, it is just because the mechanic doesn't really know his way round carburettors. This fobbing off has been going on for years, with many different carbs in many cars.
I hope that helps,
Number_Cruncher
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okay that makes sense..i'll give it a try
is that about all that can be wrong to cause that ? anything else i can try if cleaning does nothing
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These carbs are universally disliked, over complicated and expensive to repair. A second hand weber would be £30 or so from a breakers so don't spend too much on the 2e3. Is the fuel filler pipe rotten? A common failing on these cars, rust making its way in to the carb causing problems. Lots of these cars have been fitted with an extra inline petrol filter to try and prevent rust getting to the carb.
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2 Dirty VW diesels and a Honda with an 18 inch blade
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On older cars you often have to weaken the mixture to get them through the emissions test at MOT time. Trouble is they are then too weak to pull properly. Once it has passed its test, just richen the mixture again so that it runs OK. Do the same again in a year's time for the next MOT. People might say it is environmentally unfriendly but there would be a lot more emissions involved in building a new car for you to buy.
Ron
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ive seen a complete webber conversion for £30 , they get snapped up like hot cakes by all the boy racers seeking a extra 2 hp
yeah i agree it might not like running extra lean, but 7.5% was a touch rich
and no...the petrol tank isnt rotten
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Its not the tank itself that rots, its the filler neck under the rear arch 9and yes I know the tank / filler neck is all one piece). If its in good condition then I'd say its been replaced at some time in its life. The car does have the in line fuel filter fitted does'nt it? You'd be wasting your time cleaning the carb if someone has bypassed it.
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2 Dirty VW diesels and a Honda with an 18 inch blade
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yeah it looks like a recent tank...its all rust free, also has a new inline filter that doesnt appear to get dirty
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Take the mixture screw right out and check its condition, sometimes they get graunched in and damaged so they don't work properly.
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No idea if this will help. Can't work out if the c/o levels would increase or decrease but I had an Audi with a Pierberg carb 1988 and the rubber gasket between the carb and the inlet manifold split and caused all sorts of breakdowns. The most common was a flooding effect. Have a pull at it and see if you can see a crack. Even it it isn't causing you problem, it may make the car run better if you get it sorted.
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