2000 Mondeo 1.8TD with 115k on the clock.
Problem is a "transmission type" noise audible when coming on and off the power at low speeds. It's not a whine, and it's pitch doesn't change with road speed or revs. It's almost like a whirring / grating sound. Just about audible inside the car if you listen for it, but quite pronounced outside. Can't hear it above about 20 mph - whether it disappears or is drowned out by road noise I don't know.
Gearbox feels otherwise OK - good change quality, not noisy in neutral, no whining. It's probably coming up due a clutch though - biting point quite high.
Any ideas?
Cheers
DP
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Does it occur when idling and ,either way, does it change or stop or start when you depress the clutch pedal and hold it for a short while?
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It only happens when there's any load (accelerative or decelerative) through the transmission at low speeds in 1st or 2nd gear. Seems louder on deceleration than acceleration.
Noise stops when clutch depressed, coasting or driving on a constant throttle. The only way the noise changes at all is volume. Always the same pitch and sound.
Cheers
DP
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PS - No noise when clutch released in neutral with engine running. Sometimes get a bit of a clunk as the clutch engages (in neutral or in gear) which makes me wonder if it's a clutch problem.
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Possibly the clutch or driveshaft. My money is on the latter.
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Thanks mate.
One of the outer CV joints is just starting to click on lock. It's not horrendous (yet), but I'm planning to do it in the next few weeks. Maybe this will help.
I have checked underneath and the boots (inner and outer, both sides) are correctly located and undamaged.
Is there an easy way to check the inner joints?
Car passed its MOT last month, so I assume the engine mounts are OK (which was my only other thought)
Cheers
DP
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>>so I assume the engine mounts are OK
They may very well be OK, but I don't think having an MOT has much to do with being able to make that assumption.
I don't *think* engine mountings are part of the MOT.
Number_Cruncher
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I've had a car fail on them before.
DP
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Although I can't find it listed anywhere in testable items....
I'm not imagining it though. It was on my Mini back in 1993.
DP
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I don't doubt what you say is true, but I don't think that you should have been failed on that point.
Practically, it's the sort of thing that should be advised upon if noticed during a test - or, if the mounting has failed such that the safety of the vehicle may be compromised, there used to be a catch all section of the fail certificate which allowed a tester to write other than prescribed "reasons for rejection" - the heading for this section read something like "In my opinion this vehicle is dangerous and unroadworthy because;"
Obviously, a vehicle with its engine falling out isn't particularly safe, and so repairing the engine mounting was probably a good idea.
I think I am right to say that an MOT does not mean that your engine mountings have been inspected. Only if the tester is going beyond the testers manual, will he even look at them.
There's some odd logic with regard to the MOT:-
A car without an MOT is most probably not safe (ignoring political failures like exhaust emissions)
A car with an MOT may still be unsafe - there's lots that the MOT doesn't check
Number_Cruncher
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Number_cruncher,
I agree, and despite my comments indicating otherwise don't subscribe to the theory that a car with an MOT is safe. However, I would expect the testable items on a recently passed car to be in good condition, or in borderline cases where the tester has exercised discretion, to be mentioned on the advisory sheet).
My confusion in this case came from thinking the engine mounts were testable, which it appears they are not.
Cheers
DP
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Yes, I tend to agree with you - sorry if I made my point in a clumsy way!
It's just that the common incorrect view is that MOT = safe, and perhaps I am a little over zealous in pointing out the limitations of MOT inspections. Although, having said that, I don't think the test should be made more rigorous, I think it does a good job of keeping the worst cars off the road. The people who would dodge a more stringent MOT are exactly the same who would be running the dangerous cars anyway.
One obvious exception to the general view that tested items should be in reasonable nick is in the testing of the braking system. Shoes, hidden within their drum, may have only a wafer thin layer of material on them, and hence they would pass the MOT, because the brakes would function acceptably. 10 miles down the road, I wouldn't be so sure!
I tend to view MOTs as a back up to a good servicing and maintenance routine - normally, a well serviced car will fly through its MOT without a murmur.
I'm sorry - none of this diversion is helping you sort out your noise problem.
Number_Cruncher
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Going back to the noise!
Would it be true to say that you have to be in gear to make the noise? You can't make the noise by revving in neutral?
Is there plenty of oil in the transmission? Are there any leaks? Are the driveshafts secure as they enter the final drive housing? (i.e. are the diff bearings OK?)
Is the exhaust secure?
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Hi Number_Cruncher
Yes, you have to be moving and accelerating or decelerating in a low gear to make the noise. Gearbox is silent in neutral at both idle and when the engine is revved (although the Endura DE would drown out an air raid siren beyond 2,000 RPM!) ;-)
Haven't checked the transmission oil actually (I suddenly feel guilty as hell). The casing is bone dry and there's no sign of any leaks. No whines or poor shift quality to suggest lack of oil, but that's no excuse for not checking it which I will do this weekend. :-)
No noticeable movement up/down or side/side on the driveshafts.
Exhaust seems to be secure.
Cheers
DP
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Hi all,
Just an update on this problem.
I have, this afternoon, replaced the right hand engine mounting with a good secondhand one (thanks Ebay). You could see the difference instantly with the way the rubber sat in relation to the metal part of the mount, and there was less than half the amount of movement on the cambelt end of the engine when rocked.
Anyhow, the grating noise has now completely gone, together with all manner of other strange clicks and vibrations which I never really noticed until they weren't there any more. The engine feels so much smoother under acceleration it is untrue! Gearchange feels better as well.
It's still a little jerky on and off the throttle, although miles better than it was, so I suspect one of the others is past its best too. I'll have a look next weekend (busy tomorrow). I actually bought a set of three on Ebay, so I have spare front and left mounts sitting in a box in the garage. Sod's Law it's the rear one gone, but we'll have to wait and see.
Not a bad job, truth told. One of the PAS pipes obstructed two of the bolts, but with a bit of jiggling it we worked around it. 90 mins start to finish, including a coffee and fag half way through.
Anyway, thanks for all the advice. Greatly appreciated, as always.
Cheers
DP
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