Has anyone done this job themselves and can tell me how easy it is/points to watch out for.
I've recently done the same job on my Focus but now need to do it on my wife's car. It's a Mk1 facelift, 1600cc 16v Petrol with ABS.
Don't currently have a Haynes manual for the Scenic, but if it's especially quirky then I'll consider getting one. Hopefully its straight forward though!
Thanks,
Charles
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I have recently changed just the pads on my megane, and don't recall any nasties. I can't remember if you need a 7mm hex key for the pads but I imagine RF will be along to clarify. If you've done the job & know the drill then it should be straightforward - the only comment I would make is firstly, check you've got all the right size spanners before you start, as the caliper carrier bolts will be done up pretty tight, and don't forget the loctite when you refit them.
Have fun.
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Charles, I have only ever done one mechanical job on a car - and that was changing the pads on my Scenic. Very Straightforward.
If I can do it, any one can!
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Echo Bobby G, its simple and self explanatory once you get the wheel off and have a look.
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Ok folks,
The wheel is now off, caliper pins unbolted, old pads extracted, but the disc itself is secured to the hub by two screws that look like torx screws. An allen key will fit in the head of these screws but I feel like its forcing it to do this. The screws are also done up damn tight, so I fear applying too much force to the allen key will round off the head. The shape of the head is too big for any of the torx screwdrivers I have.
Can anyone who has done this job confirm that an allen key will do the job here please?
Thanks,
Charles
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Personally, no I wouldn't use an allen key to do this. It will only grip the middle bit of the screw and if they are tight, then you will damage the recess and possibly get it into a state where the correct torx bit will not do the job either. I have damaged several screws in the past trying this.
If possible buy the correct size torx bit, but get one that fits a socket, not the right angle type. You can then tackle the screw head on. You may need an impact driver to start the screw turning.
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As mjm.But why not buy a set of torx. they are not expensive and come in handy for other minor jobs you may want to do yourself.But dont use an allen key.Using correct tool makes life easier
--
Steve
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Don't buy cheap Torx bits as they will round off on these screws.
I had a similar problem on my Saab 9000s. You *can* hammer an allen key in but you will prmanently damage the screw so get some spares. The other way is to use a chisel on the heads, which is what I ended up doing. You have my sympathy as when I did this a couple of years ago it took about two thirds of the time I spent on the job just trying to get these screws undone.
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T40 Torx bit it is - thanks for the advice. Fortunately the village next door has an old style hardware shop - a real aladdins cave - and so I've bought the right bits now.
The screws are still damn tight, echoing what Mike H said. Fortunately the replacement disc set has new screws supplied, and the recess here is definitely for an allen key.
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Errr, this is probably too late and might also be a matter of "teaching granny to suck eggs" but in case it helps anyone else: If the vehicle is fitted with ABS remember NOT to force the caliper pistons back into the caliper without releasing the bleed nipple.
Like I said, probably too late and probably a granny ovoid lecture but....................better that than damage to the ABS pump.
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Why? Not heard this one before - I've just done the same job on two ABS-equipped cars & I can confirm the ABS still works fine.
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There is no theoretical reason why you shouldn't just push the caliper pistons back - there has to be as open path to the reservoir for the fluid to expand when the brakes are at rest, otherwise they would bind when hot. However, the advice given is good, because on the average (neglected) car, the fluid in the caliper will be dirty. Pushing this back through the ABS controller might block the valves.
Bleeding off fluid when the pads are changed is good practice on any car. I always do this and generously bleed the brakes at each service to keep clean fluid where it is most needed in the system. It also prevents the nasty problem of seized nipples.
659.
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Thanks for that good advice. I guess the reason I've had no problems is that both cars involved have had their two-yearly fluid changes within the last few months, so that will have minimised the chances of any problems. With any luck, I won't need to do the same job again on these two cars!
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