I have Mk2 VW Golf 93,000 miles
I recently had the front wheel bearings replaced on my Golf.
The garage mechanic pointed out that the rear wheel bearings were fine, even though one rear wheel (when raised off ground) makes a click sound when a turning force is applied.
The mechanic said that this click sound is due to the torque setting of the hub nut, is this a correct assumption? My rear wheels have drum brakes.
A quick glance in a haynes manual shows that the taper bearing is held in place by this hub nut plus a lock ring and pin. The torque applied to the hub nut seems quite low considering that the hub nut has to hold the brake drum and wheel in place, is this a correct obversation or have I missed something?
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Taper bearing wont need to be tightened up too much.. and should be within tolerance as given by manual..Idea is when hot/warming up. bearings expand and will take up any play that is there..I dont think his explanation is correct..But only in respect of turning the wheel..Ie it shouldnt click..Have you got wheel trims.May possibly be wheel trim clicking..Just a thought?
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Steve
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You can apply an amazing amount of load on a taper bearing by over tightening the hub nut. Some manuals give the correct torque as that given by a measured amount of play at the wheel rim when the wheel is off load. Usually achieved by tightening to a specified torque then backing the nut off a flat or so. One manual did away with torque by saying "tighten nut until resistance is felt when turning the wheel by hand" then you had to back it off a certain amount. Sounds arbitary but taper rollers adjusted like this seemed to last a very long time. Probably not PC to do it this way nowadays as steve implies go by the manual.
I think the unidentified click is probably the more important problem.
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The rear hub is much easier to strip down than the front! If there is no obvious external source of the click, I would be tempted to strip down the hub and check the hand brake mechanism etc. inside. It all comes apart and goes back together very easily - Honest! If you detach any of the springs and/or the shoes, just make a sketch of which holes etc. they fit into, to ensure you get it correct when re-assembling. Hub nut is done up to a low torque - I believe Haynes advise tightening until large washer behind can just be moved with screwdriver - Thats been fine advice on my MK 11 for over 100K miles!
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When one rear wheel is raised off ground and is held at the top and bottom a click sound occurs when a tilting/turning force is applied. There is no noise when the wheel is rotated.
The mechanic says this is fine and is due to level of torque applied to taper bearing.
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If you are talking about a dull click when you apply a rocking motion top to bottom of the wheel and to lesser degree when you rock it fore and aft then even with a slightly overtighened wheel bearing this can be the free movement in the interference fit of the stub axle to bearing. With time and wear this clearance does become a little loose and is reflected by the movement. This is sometimes picked up by an MOT as a loose wheel bearing but is often the movement I describe above. If the stub axle is badlet worn/polished due to excessive rotation of the bearing inner, perhaps due to running a faulty/worn out bearing in the past, then the stub axle may have to be changed although a little locktite fixes the problem but is a bitch when it comes to removing the drum again. In days gone by it was common practice to put a few centre punch marks in the top surface of the stub axle and refit the bearings. This stopped the movement for thousands of miles and still allowed you to reove the drum and its bearings. I assume it is the N/S that makes the click/clunk as this one takes all the curb/pothole abuse thus more wear in the vertical plane. Regards Peter
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Wouldn't dispute the remarks about the stub axle but I hadn't understood on first reading that the click was heard when tilting the wheel rather than rotating it. The various methods and torque settings described in the manuals will produce a certain amount of play in the bearing off load and this can be very small. I believe this is simply to prevent over tightening. Some tightening methods and some tolerances give detectable play at the wheel rim and this will produce a click but no associated problem. I think your mechanic is more than likely right - he probably knows his job!
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Could even be the tilting causes the brake shoe to move..unworn section of the drum moves the brake shoe..They have been known to click?
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Steve
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