Hey, hope someone can help me with this. Ive had this car for 6 months with no problems except having the starter relays changed.
Now when i start it after a couple days of no use it starts fine, but once changed from 1st to 2nd gear the car will judder quite violently and then roll to a stop and stall no matter whether the clutch or accelerator is down or up. This continues for about 10 minutes or so. Once the car has warmed up and gone for a good run, it goes fine, next time it starts up is fine. But once left for a few days again it just resorts back to stalling on me.
Anyone got any ideas as to what the problem could be???
Thanks
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Have a look at the condition of the contacts inside distributor cap and the rotor arm. It may be a bit of a long shot, but my old Metro gta used to do something similar: start and set off fine, but once you had to let off the throttle and change down a gear it would lurch and kangaroo like a good'en. Once it had warmed up after a few miles it ran as sweet as anything. My distributor cap and rotor arm were on their way out, but I found that cleaning up the contacts solved the problem for a few months. Incidentaly it always seemed to occur as the colder wintery weather set in.
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Thanks mate, i'll give it a try, what you said sounds similar to whats goin on with mine
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Burnt out dizzy caps and rotor arms are common on the Metro
How did you get on Keith?
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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We had this with SWMBOs metro. The vent pipe that runs next to the filler pipe on the petrol tank had corroded. This resulted in water, in the form of spray (when raining) from the rear wheel, entering the tank. Running around generally was no problem, except the occasional misfire now and then, but leaving the car standing allowed the water to gather in the bottom of the tank. This resulted in a perfect start up from the clean(ish) petrol in the carb, then after the water started coming through it stalled. I had to remove the tank to drain it and got a large coffee jar full (approx 1 litre) of water out of the tank. A new filler/vent pipe assembly cured it. I also fitted a transparent fuel filter near the carb so that I could see when/if any water was coming through in the future.
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Carb icing?
New plugs as well as other electrical bits?
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If your Metro is a carb. model, then it will have an electric pre-heater system in the inlet manifold.
The system comprises a heater, a relay, and manifold temperature switch. The heater operates until the engine warms up to 50 deg C.
A fault in this system could cause the symptoms you have.
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Had similar problems with my 93 Corsa. Turned out to be burnt out distributor cap and rotor arm (also needed new plugs as the old ones where soaked in petrol from starting attempts).
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If your Metro is a carb. model, then it will have an electric pre-heater system in the inlet manifold. The system comprises a heater, a relay, and manifold temperature switch. The heater operates until the engine warms up to 50 deg C. A fault in this system could cause the symptoms you have.
Nah, I doubt the manifold heater would cause this; if the air filter is on correctly the hot air pickup should work correctly, avoiding icing.
Does the position of the choke have any effect?
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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Too heavy an oil grade (10w/30 is the correct brew) will cause hydraulic valve lifter jacking, engine starts fine then peters out, carries on this way until the oil has thinned slightly.
Andrew
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Simplicate and add lightness!!
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