Why does it cost so much more for a turbo compared to non-turbo ?
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I really don't know, but it seems to be the case assuming your's was fitted properly and well, which seems likely. Where abouts in the the country are you?
The D and TD both use the same belt, according to www.pugspares.co.uk, so i guess it's just a lot more labour. I'll see if i can figure it out using my haynes manual tonight.
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I'm in Warwickshire.
Had another quote from an independant for a similar amount. My old 205 GRD was just under £100 (2 years ago).
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Hmm interesting. The D books at about 3hrs and the TD 3.5hrs. You shouldn't pay more than £30 for a belt and £45 for a tensioner on top of labour.
So £250 is about right for someone on £50/hr doing the lot.
However these are one belt that is quite routine when you do loads and they have few pitfalls...so lots of garages kindly pass on the saving to customers and do them under £150.
The tensioners on these are strong and reliable but worth replacing at this second belt change. It's not what the tensioner bearing is like now you need to consider...more what it will be like with another 50K covered!
As a matter of interest the OE belts cost the trade about £10 and an OE tensioner just under £30.
M.M
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Thanks for your help everyone, but it's kind of out of my hands now as my radiator emptied itself quite violently on the M40 last night, and on limping into the garage i asked them to do the belt change while they were at it. I mentioned that they quoted £200 odd when i asked before (actually £265 quoted) and the bloke there didnt even flinch, so i guess i'll be getting new radiator and belt change for sub £400 overall. Hurts the wallet but it'd have to be done sometime anyway i suppose!
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Uh-oh.....
Sorry to be a doommonger, but.... XUD units (particularly turbo ones) do not take kindly to being overheated - the head gasket tends to pop, followed shortly after by the head itself warping. Make sure you keep an eye on what it's doing after you get the new rad in (water level etc), just in case. I hope you have been lucky this time.....
I have just put a new rad in my Xantia TD as it was weeping quite a lot, and I didn't want to risk it going pop.
RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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It never went higher than 95degC, the cooling fan did a superb job keeping it to that, however it did go about 15 miles like this. Should i still be worried?
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I have a 97 306 TD and i had a similar problem to yours a while back. I don't think that my radiator gave way quite as dramatically as yours did by the sound of it, on mine the base of the core had simply corroded away and water dripped out when the engine was running. i did a longish motorway run without knowing the rad was like this, and the engine temperature never rose above 90. I think the coolant loss has to be pretty large to cause the engine to o/heat.however, the temperature gauge reading cannot be taken as gospel and i did worry for a while after whether or not i had damaged the head gasket. I had a new rad fitted immediateley after discovering the originals condition, and all seems ok now. How large was the coolant loss in your case? If it wasn't massive then i think you might be alright. Good luck
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Well i dont think it was anymore than dripping, but it did go from a half full expansion tank to a completely empty one in the space of one trip home from work ~ 25miles. It was still dripping out when i reached home tho, which i suppose means it wasn't completely empty. I suppose time will tell here but it's certainly made me nervous.
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Doesn't sound disastrous. Looking around this site for similar threads i found quite a few 306/zx/xantia owners with cooling problems and/or rotting rads.seems to be a very common problem with these. it's good that you spotted it before the whole thing gave way and dumped all your coolant on the motorway at 80 mph.
Hope that it is ok once fixed.
duffy
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Sounds like it will be OK then if it didn't get over 95. If the light comes on it's usually too late!
Definte weak point on later XUD TD the radiator - needs an eye keeping on, and changing if (when) it starts leaking.
RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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Yep spot on Richard.
No need to wait for an actual visible dripping leak, just look for signs of a greenish/beige stain at the lower rear of the radiator. Another clue is seeing the fins going brittle and "missing". Bit like a little bald spot on the rad.
I've a yard full of Cit/Pug rads stacked up from the first part of this year alone.
Interestingly I've just changed a new OE one that was fitted 11mths ago...still under warranty of course.
M.M
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Yeah i'd definitely recommend changing as soon as the rad becomes green/starts to weep. I thought i'd leave it a couple of months until my student account overdraft had lessened a bit - wish i hadn't now. Should be getting it back from the garage today or tomorrow and hopefully all will be well until the rad fails again in a couple of years, as the one thats just gone was a replacement one from '98 in the first place (the cars a '95M)
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Hmm my experience of exchange/rebuilt rads from well know suppliers has not been good...in a couple of years they look about ten years old.
Apart from this one-off failure I mentioned above I fit new all the time now because they last for ages.
Amazingly from the right source new are cheaper too.
M.M
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Ok the jobs been done, new rad fitted and timing/auxillary belts changed at the same time: £399.59 from my usual helpful independent (Europa Cars Watford). Could've been worse i suppose, and it looks like the head gasket survived as its staying at normal temps now.
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