My mechanic is stumped. The dashboard lights and the head and tail lights on the right hand side of my daewoo leganza keep going out. I replace the burnt out fuse and all the lights work just fine but then a few days later the lights are all out again.
help please? I appreciate any and all advice.
gmcdermott
|
Sounds like you've got a poor connection somewhere and it's causing a high resistance joint. Remove all bulbs one by one and clean contacts both on the bulb and in each bulb holder(remembering to clean any finger grease off the halogen headlights with meths/surgigal alcohol afterwards). Also check security of wiring connected to the bulb sockets. If they are spade connectors, pull apart the connection and squeeze the female spade connector together slightly with a pair of pliers and push back on the male connector. Also check for any corrosion.
You might want to also test to see how much current is being drawn while the lights are on. Remove the relevant fuse and substitute for a multimeter. Check to see if current loading is less than the fuse rating.
|
Dear Dynamic Dave,
Thank you so much for your reply.
I think I didn't phrase my problem correctly. The bulbs are fine. Its the darn fuse that keeps blowing (burning up). I put in a new fuse and the lights come on no problem. Then a day or two later, the lights on the dashboard panel and head and tail (on right hand side only) don't come on.
One mechanic told me to use a higher amp fuse, so I replaced the 10A with a 15A. Another auto shop guy told me I mustn't do that. Anyway, guess what? The 15A fuse burnt out too! I keep a supply of 10A fuses in the car and I've been replacing that one fuse two-three times a week.
I will try your multimeter theory though. Now, i just have to get my hands on a multimeter...
Again, thanks for taking the trouble to respond. If you think of anything else, I'll be glad to hear of it.
-gmcdermott
|
The bulbs are fine. Its the darn fuse that keeps blowing (burning up).
OK, if you're certain that the bulbs contacts and associated wiring are clean, free from corrosion and secure, then it's got to be something else that's causing the problem
One mechanic told me to use a higher amp fuse, so I replaced the 10A with a 15A....The 15A fuse burnt out too!
Ah, yes, I remember you asking this question a little while ago. Well if it's also taking out the 15 amp fuse I would start looking for any wiring that could be rubbing against the bodywork and causing a short circuit. Try if you can to trace the wiring back from the lights and pay particular attention to any wiring that is clipped near the bodywork and goes through any rubber grommets. Also pay attention to any wiring that goes around corners. You might want to also try wiggling the wires while the lights are on to see if you can forcably get the fuse to blow again.
|
|
|
Could there be a section of wiring or connector in the circuit that has a small section of bare wire exposed, and that finds ground somewhere when you are on the move?
|
Thank you Frostbite. Thank you Dynamic Dave.
Depending on who I want to get rid of in my household, I will ask them to check out the wiring. Hopefully, by this time tomorrow, I'll have either a fried relative or/and a resolved fuse problem. Will let you all know.
Thanks again
-gmcdermott
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If you haven't sorted this problem yet,your best bet is to take the car to a decent vehicle electrcian
|
Thank you Phil Cook and Frostbite and Dynamic Dave...
The short answer is that the problem is not yet solved.
I did lift up the hood and visually inspect every visible wire. We did remove the right front lamp housing and inspect those wires. Inspected the right side rear lamp wiring too. Nothing naked to report.
I got this suggestion from another car man:
"Sounds like you have a wiring loom rubbing out one possible area ..open the rear doors the sill panels can be removed under witch you will find the boot loom these can sometimes rub on the body if you don't find the short/rub you will have to employ the services of a good auto electrician another place is remove the clove box there are some splice packs black blocks with either a red or blue or orange cap these sometimes can burn through."
Sight inseen, I think i could probably open the door panels. I'm not so sure about the glove box. But I'll go look at least.
As some of you suggested, I probably need a good auto electrician. Does one have to be familiar with this brand of car (Daewoo)or would any Auto Elec. do?
Thanks again to all of you who took the time to reply.
gabrielle mc dermott
|
|
A good vehicle electrician should be able to sort the problem whatever the make
|
|
|
|
