I have recently acquired a Ford Fiesta 1.3 LX N reg (1995/96)
I have noticed some problems when changing gears.
when the engine is cold, shifting from third down to second i get a grinding/crunching noise like the clutch has not been depressed all the way, when it has.
this only happens from 3rd to 2nd, and when the engine is warm the problem disappears.
I think the owner before me changed the engine from a 1.11 to a 1.3.
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Try changing the oil in gearbox. This is easier said than done because there is probably no drain plug. Take box out or suck it out. If this doesn\'t improve it then I suggest you practice double de-clutching when you want to change from 3-2 with a cold box.
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Might be worth while using a oil additive? as a easy option first
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Thank you for your replies, I will change the transmition oil tommorow.
In the mean time, is there any other way I can cure this problem, I don't want to replace the full gear box, I don't like the idea of banging and crashing through the gears till they warm up! A friend advised me to remove the old clutch plate and to fit a new one, would this help in any way?
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It could be sticky clutch, but it is more likely the oil. And the oil is a cheaper job !
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If the clutch was not freeing properly, it would affect the other gears by making them notchy or obstructive to shifting. It would also be impossible to engage reverse without grating.
If the oil change does not help (and I would not recommend additives as this is likely to have an adverse effect on the synchro), then you'll have to live with it. The synchro is faulty on 2nd gear.
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Hi
How do you double clutch
i cured the problem by changing the gearbox oil on my fiesta by removing the reverse detent cover then refilling through the filler plug
since then the gearchange has been smoother and the gearbox is quieter
Thanks
J Stephenson
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Are you sure it is not a dragging clutch when cold. if it is a box problem try changing the oil for a synthetic gear box oil and try it out.
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How do you double clutch
The term "double de clutch" means two clutch operations between each gear change. ie, engage clutch - put gearbox into neutral - release and re-engage clutch again - select next gear and release clutch again.
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DD
Plus, when changing down, a 'blip' on the throttle in neutral to bring the engine speed up to that required for the lower gear at the speed you are travelling, so the gear engages smoothly.
A technique developed in the early days when gearboxes didn't have synchromesh, and correct matching of engine speed to road speed during gearchanges was necessary to prevent grating noises from the 'box when shifting gears.
Regards
John S
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was necessary to prevent grating noises from the 'box when shifting gears.
Ah yes, the good old days where "if you can't find it, grind it"
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Not to mention:
"keep trying, they're all in there somewhere"
Regards
John S
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muff
Definitely worth trying an oil change on the gearbox as this isn't a normal service operation and it could well be the original oil in the box. Ford recommend EP 80 for these, but you could consider one of the higher tech multigrades for the car such as Syntrax. A bit thinner when cold, so could help. Drain the box by removing the reverse gear detent plug at the bottom, and refill to the combined level filler plug on the front.
Regards
John S
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Hello John S,
I am very interested to read your reply to Muff regarding oil change on Fiesta gearbox. I have a 1999 Fiesta Zetec and have enquired at several garages as to how my gearbox could be drained as, as seems normal these days, there is no drain plug.
Where exactly is the reverse gear detent that you mention and is this a feature of the Zetec gearbox too?
Ford garages say that the only way is to remove the gearbox and drain it then. This is beyond my resource. They do not believe the oil can be sucked out via a thin tube inserted through the filler/leveller plug. They say you cannot get the tube to the bottom of the box where the sludge etc., has accumulated.
I would appreciate your advice.
Jaytee
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jaytee
I haven't looked under one of the latest Fiestas, and this applies to the gearboxes of the previous model to your car, which is the last time I did one! However, I don't believe things have changed.
The reverse gear detent cover is a hexagonal nut which has in its centre what looks like a short length of bar sticking out (it's actually hollow). From memory the nut is about 25mm a/f, the 'bar' about 30mm long and 12mm dia. Look under the front of the car and you should see it near the gearbox support bracket which runs front - rear. Remove this cover and most of the oil drains out of the box. As I recall pretty easy to see it, and work on it. Completely from memory, so apologies if it's wrong! James 60 seems to have done his so can confirm the description.
Draining isn't a standard service operation, and there isn't an 'official' drain point. If the design has changed and this detent cover has gone, then at worst you'd have to pull a drive shaft to get out most of the oil. This is how the dealers drain the boxes when they remove them - they don't wait for it to drain out of the detent cover. I'd agree though that syphoning it out through the filler hole isn't practical.
Regards
John S
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My Haynes manual for 1995-2001 shows a drain plug: Allen key required: Plug furthest from engine on front of gearbox.
madf
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Yeah I have that too,
I tried to follow the instructions in the haynes manual, My problem is I cannot get to the nut sufficiently to drain the box, without removing a small metal plate attached to the gearbox and to a support running the length of the car that supports the gearbox. Would by removing this small plate, would the gearbox drop or become unstable in any way (don't have the tools to correct this problem)causing more problems or would removing the plate allow me to have full access to the nut, without any problems!.
TIA!
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John S
Many thanks for a prompt and very descriptive reply. I think I've found the hexagonal plug you describe. Looking from the front of the car, its on the right-hand side and low down on the gearbox casting. i.e. close to the nearside front wheel.
Would you recommend sticking to the EP80 oil grade or try one of the synthetics mentioned earlier in this thread? I don't have a specific gearchange problem or any other problems yet, (touch wood!) but I've always found this gearbox to be sluggish in changing to 2nd from first, either hot or cold. My Fiesta has done only 21k from new but I'm concious of the advice always proffered by HJ, to change gearbox oil regularly and not let the sludge grind the bearings with time.
Again, many thanks.
Regards,
Jaytee
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Jaytee
I'm glad my memory is still OK!
As the box doesn't get any easier when hot, then the multigrade oils are unlikely to provide a cure. However, they are a semi-synthetic, and may provide some benefits, especially if you're intending to keep the car for a while.
By the way, I assume you've identified the level/filler plug on the front of the box - it needs an 8mm or 5/16 inch allen key. Make sure the car is level as the gearchange quality is made worse if they are overfilled.
Regards
John S
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