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Here's the method I used to replace the strut ball joint, anti-roll bar drop links and bushes. Having only recently acquired a 2009 Peugeot 308 2ltr HDI 136bhp, I was concerned at the front end suspension knocks and clunks. I’ve replaced the ns/os “lower wishbone” ball joint, anti-roll bar drop links and anti-roll bar bushes. I’d previously jacked the car up and checked for play but detected nothing. Having replaced the ball joints, drop links and anti-roll bar bushes the noise has significantly reduced. However, I anticipate replacing the top mounts at some point!

Tools required:

o Trolley jack

o Long breaker bar

o 41mm deep socket (undoing the ball joint from the lower wishbone)

o Decent array of spanners and sockets

o Ratchet strap (securing the strut to the car)

o Axle stand

o Ball joint splitter

o Road spring compressors

o Large adjustable C spanner (for levering down the “lower wishbone”)

o Torque wrench

o Set of Torx keys/bits

o Set of Torx sockets (necessary if replacing anti-roll bar bushes)

o G clamp (to temporarily hold the anti-role bar in position if replacing the bushes)

Parts required:

o Ball joint £15 each

o Anti-role bar drop link £15 each

o Ball joint shield £4 each from a Peugeot dealer

o Anti-roll bar bushes £10ish each

Replacing the ball joint:

Guidance in the Haynes Manual is to remove the hub carrier from the strut completely and to replace the ball joint at the bench. This requires the hub carrier to be detached from the drive shaft and the brake assembly. The alternative method below leaves the hub carrier attached to the strut.

1. Apply handbrake, chock the rear wheel and slacken OS/NS front wheel nuts. Jack up the car and place axle stand under the inner jacking point i.e. not the sill (trolley jack needed later) and remove the wheel.

2. Splitting the ball joint from the lower wishbone - Remove the nut securing the ball joint taper to the “lower wishbone” and split using suitable tool. If you’re using the forked splitter note that you’ll likely destroy the rubber seal.

3. Use spring compressors carefully to relieve the downward pressure forcing the ball joint taper into the lower wishbone. Position the adjustable spanner on the “lower wishbone” forwards so that it and the wishbone can be levered downwards. Use a ratchet strap to secure the strut to the car to avoid any possibility of pulling the drive shaft from the differential.

4. Carefully (remember you’re taking weight of the axle stand) use the trolley jack under the bottom edge of the brake disk to raise the hub (just one to two inches) while your willing assistant pushes down on the adjustable spanner. Once the taper is clear of the lower wishbone, move the trolley jack fractionally backwards towards the rear of the car. Release the downward pressure on the lower wishbone and let down the trolley jack.

5. Removing the ball joint assembly from the hub carrier – Gently use a chisel to prise the ball joint shield from the ball joint assembly (fits over the top of ball joint assembly and clips to hub carrier). There is a vertical slot in the back of the hub carrier. A deformable lip on the ball joint assembly is peined over into the slot to prevent the ball joint assembly coming undone from the hub carrier. This ideally should be tapped out using a suitable punch/chisel.

6. Check that the ratchet strap is still securing the strut, then using a long breaker bar and 41mm deep socket undo the ball joint from the “lower wishbone.” Give consideration to the direction in which you’re pulling and the way the strut is braced against the lower wishbone.

7. Replacing the ball joint assembly – Check that the ratchet strap is still securing the strut, refit the new ball joint assembly and torque down. Pein the lip into the slot cut in the back of the hub carrier. The old ball joint shield may still be usable, but may need replacing due to corrosion. Refit ball joint shield (may need to be tapped into place to secure clips).

8. Relocating the ball joint taper to the lower wishbone – Check that the ratchet strap is still securing the strut. Jack up under the brake disk while your willing assistant pushes down on the adjustable/lower wishbone. Move/bar the jack forwards and inwards to locate the taper over the hole in the lower wishbone. Let down the jack and release pressure on the lower wishbone. Tighten ball joint nut. As the taper is not tight in the lower ball joint, may need to counter hold the ball joint either with a Torx bit before the final torque down.

9. Carefully remove the spring compressors.

Replacing the drop links:

1. Using a spanner and Torx bit/key to counter hold, undo the nuts securing the drop link to the strut and anti-roll bar. Use a pry bar maintain downward pressure on the anti-roll bar to help remove the link bar.

2. Using the pry bar, replace the link bar then tighten and torque down nuts.

Replacing the anti-roll bar bushes:

The manual recommends separating the anti-roll bar drop links from the anti-role bar. If both struts are similarly compressed, then there's no torsional force on the anti-roll bar. Keeping the anti-roll bar attached to the drop links helps positioning of the bar and relieves some of the weight.

1. Get the front wheels up on ramps. Apply the hand break, place car in gear and chock the rear wheels. Remove belly pan

2. A cupped bracket secures each of the bushes/the anti-roll bar to the underside of the car. Each bracket is held in place by a large nut and bolt to the front of the bracket, and a separate Torx bolt to the rear of the bracket. The bracket also has two lugs at the front which locate into holes in the underside/subframe of the car which help to initially position and secure the bracket when bolting up the anti-roll bar.

3. Using a socket, free off the front nuts. Counter hold the corresponding bolt with a Torx bit from above and remove the nut leaving the bolt in place. Repeat for the second bracket. Space is tight and as an alternative a Torx bit can also be used in the other end (nut end) of the bolt although this is a much smaller Torx size

4. Using a Torx socket remove the first Torx bolt. The corresponding bracket can now be removed. It may be necessary to tap the front bolt up to allow the bracket to slide backwards and the lugs to clear their locating holes. Carefully remove the second Torx bolt from the other bracket. At this point the anti-roll bar can potentially swing down and smack you in the face – you've been warned. Remove the second bracket and lower the anti-roll bar down (it will pivot around the drop link ball joints).

5. Note the orientation of the old bushes. They are split to allow them to fit around the anti-roll bar. Fit the new bushes to the anti-roll bar. The anti-roll bar can be pushed up into place and loosley held there using a G clamp (there is a flat ground into the anti-roll bar which helps with this).

6. Enter the bracket lugs into the corresponding holes and loosely secure with the rear Torx bolt. Counter holding the front bolt, tighten up the nut. Final tighten nut and Torx bolt to the torque settings is the manual and repeat for the second bracket. Replace the belly pan