1.6 Zetec, 120,000miles. I presume the plastic ratchet device has failed.
I removed the circlip from the pedal shaft on the outside of the pedal bracket on the left
hand side and hoped the shaft would exit toward the right hand side, I then realised that the shaft had a short flat in it at the right hand end and a matching 'D' shaped hole in the pedal bracket which means the shaft will only exit toward the left hand side, it does move a little but then comes to a dead stop.
There is another circlip within the pedal bracket adjacent to the brake pedal which I removed because I couldn't see how the shaft could push through with that in place.
At the pivot (top) end of the clutch pedal there is a 6 mm allen headed bolt, it looks like an adjustment bolt, but can that be so?
I've got the Haynes manual but I don't find it a lot of help.
There's obviously a way, but can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks.
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Hi, I have just had the same problem but not at the stage you are at, it is the ratchet as the pedel is flat to the floor. Have you had any luck in repairing yours? as I could do with some advice too. The pedel is very hard to work on as it is in such a tight hole, did you remove anything to get to it. Replacement parts are widely availible on ebay. Sorry I can't offer any more support but I will be making my own repairs soon and if you need any more support I will do the best I can.
Thanks
Steve
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Yes Larry I managed it, but one of those jobs which would be much easier the second time you did it - hopefully not!
I first removed the drivers seat for better access. The pedal shaft has to come out toward the passenger side - there is a horseshoe clip next to the brake pedal that has to be removed and a second one on the passenger end of the shaft, I think that can be left in place - though I removed mine.
At this point my shaft wouldn't budge - until I loosened the two bolts that secure the two halfs of the pedalbox together! They can be found up beside the brake pedal push rod, and then with some wriggling the shaft will exit.
The clutch pedal appeared to be reluctant to drop down after the shaft was removed, but with another wriggle it will.
There is a small spring clip on the rear end of the brake pedal push rod that has to be removed.
To aid reassembly I used Evostick to secure the two plastic spacers in place - temporily fit the shaft to make sure they're accurately sited.
I also tacked (welded) a strip of metal to the steel washer ajacent to the brake pedal to hold it (the washer) in place whilst fitting the shaft. If you do tack it make sure the weld isn't wider than the washer. Also make sure the strip of metal isn't able to foul anything when the washer is fitted.
I hope this will help your endeavers. Good luck.
Normy.
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the allen headed screw/bolt sets the pedal height i used to work for the aa and have changed loads not the best job in the world but kept the member happy and did wonders for my fix rate
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Is it not easier to remove the pedal box and do it on the bench? rather than on your back.
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Hi Normy,
Do you mean the D-end of the shaft passes through the break and clutch pedal?
Also which are the 2 bolts that hold the box togther? are they above between the break and clutch pedal?
Thanks in advance
M
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Matt. Yes, the shaft passes through both pedals, toward the passenger side.
The pedal box assembly is made up of two parts, held together by the two bolts I mentioned, just loosen the bolts two or three turns, (I didn't take them right out, it would be difficult to start them again if you did). Loosening them as suggested allows the two parts of the pedal box to move relative to each other and that enables the shaft to be removed.
The bolts are above the pedals, fiddly to get to, but only need to be loosened as mentioned above.
Hope this helps, Normy.
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Thanks, I'll give it ago.
Thanks again
Matt
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I've got the same problem on my 1997 1.8 Escort. As I approached a roundabout and pressed the clutch there was a "clang", the clutch pedal stayed down but the clutch didn't disengage. A sliver of white plastic (12mm x 8mm x 1mm) fell down by my feet. I was able to get home in the car by changing gear without the clutch but I want to get it fixed as soon as possible because it feels like I'll break the gearbox if I do this for more than a few days, plus stopping and moving off isn't very dignified.
As you rightly say the Haynes manual isn't a lot of help - according to the manual all Escorts up to 1996 have an automatic adjuster but from 1997 on adjustment is manual. However it has no diagrams of the 97-on mechanism. Looking at my clutch pedal there appears to be a white plastic toothed half-circle but also a 6mm allen bolt sticking out, so I can't figure out which system I've got. According to my VIN plate my car's build date is May 97.
At first I thought the clutch cable had snapped, but when I pull on the gearbox end of the cable the clutch pedal lifts up, so the cable must be intact. The cable at the top of the clutch pedal is tucked right up behind the steering column and heater ducts so I can't see how to get anything out to fix or replace it.
The posts above mention welding, which is out of my league. Also today is Easter Sunday so any replacement parts will be hard to come by. Any thoughts on how I can figure out what needs doing, and how difficult it's likely to be? I have only a few screwdrivers and a set of spanners, no socket set or any special tools or welding gear. My tool kit reflects my mechanical ability. I've also got home AA membership, is it something they're likely to be able to fix on my driveway?
Many thanks,
Dave TD.
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Ey up guys,
Thanks for your thoughts and experiences above. I bought a 98 R Escort van and thought that the biting point was a little low on the clutch so just 'tweeked' it on the manual (8mm hex) adjustment. Prompt: large crack as plastic quadrant component disintegrated. 2nd prompt: journey to Sandicliffe Ford for a part and Halfords for a Haynes. Got to say Haynes is worse than useless for this repair - infact even Fords own parts diagram was wrong. Suspect that there are many variations of this crazy design. Pedal connector rod exits TOWARDS steering column, Stop light switch comes out ANTICLOCKWISE, and most importantly the whole pedal box shootingmatch needs to come out of the car before a repair could be made. I salute the chap who did this in and hour and a half - took me 4 Hours while cursing sadistic Ford designers. Yep remove front seat if you can, unhinge fuse box and unplug blockplugs so you can get at it. Check neighbours arent listening as pink fluffy dice appear to be the only words appropriate - maybe its just me.
Repair done van back ont road. gonna buy a Citroen next time.
{{Looks like someone DIDN'T bother reading the no swearing policy before posting}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 14/07/2009 at 11:10
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We should start a club for people who've changed an Escort clutch pedal tensioner - no handshake though because it would hurt the skinned knuckles. See my post above - It was a manual adjuster, I did change it, it did take me 4 hours and it is a ridiculous design. Hopefully it won't break for another 90,000 miles...
Dave TD
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