ive just finished fitting new rear calipers and a few pipes/hoses to my 89 golf gti
ive bled it with an easy bleed and set up the hand brake , but the pedal goes almost to the floor before it works..its hard when the brakes work not spongy
does that sound like traped air, or could i have ruined the master cly while messing around? the fronts were untouched
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I'd say there's still are in there.
I would bleed both front and back and re-check.
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Mike Farrow
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thanks for the reply
should i have pre filled the calipers?
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should i have pre filled the calipers?
I don't know the answer to that one, but I really meant to say "air" not "are".
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Could be the duel braking system operates.. one front one rear opposing sides..If so all four calipers will need bleeding.
I always bleed all four anyway. As it replaces old fluid that possibly should have been replaced before.
prefilling the calipers wont help
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Steve
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i did bleed all 4 the first time....anyone know if master cly can be bled on golfs?
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anyone know if master cly can be bled on golfs?
I would not think so. Generally you should only need to bleed at the calipers. Do it as steve says: Do them in diagonal order, i.e. NSF, OSR, OSF, NSR.
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Mike Farrow
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Master cylinders cannot be bled on thier own.Why did you replace calipers in the first place?.Was it for similar problem.
As you have a prob it could be down to master cylinder seals or incorrectly tightned joint/bleed nipple leaking by?
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Steve
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i put new calipers on as the handbrake mech had siezed in the old ones...the brakes were fine before expect the h/brake was poor
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okay ive bled another 1ltr of fluid through it with the easybleed and with the load valve pushed open
a little air came out, but the pedal is still way too low, but firm..it doesnt drop if you hold it there and doesnt improve if pumped
what next
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I wonder if you have the correct bore pipes and calipers fitted?
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Steve
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the calipers and pipes ive fitted are the same as many other gti have fitted as an upgrade
im maybe thinking the rears havent ajusted properly, that would cause long pedal travel
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>>the calipers and pipes ive fitted are the same as many other gti have fitted as an upgrade
Sorry you didnt mention this before..Are you sure the upgrades dont mention replacing other components as well?.Seems strange a straight forward replacement of brake parts causes this much grief?
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Steve
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ive fitted mk4 golf calipers to the rear of my mk2 golf( common mod on golfs, as the mk4 handbrake mech is reliable)
im suffering a low pedal for no apparant reason, and wondered if theres a particular way to set/ajust new calipers
as far as im aware they should be fitted and bled..pumped 20 o r so times then hook up and ajust the handbrake
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I had a major problem bleeding the rear brakes of a 1990 Passat. In the end it was because the car was jacked up with rear trailing arm hanging down(same as golf), this operated a valve(above tailing arm on NS) that made bleeding impossible. Try bleeding with wheels on the ground.
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If the bore size of the new callipers are larger than the originals, then the brake will have more travel.
This said it should not be as far as you are describing. Did all of the brake fuid run out when the new parts where fitted? And, does the car have ABS?
If the answer to both of the above is yes, then it is probable that you still have air in the system. It may be worth tying to bleed the system from the pipes on the master cylinder, (be carefull of the paint work!) and then ABS unit, n/s/r, o/s/r, n/s/f and then o/s/f brakes. (be sure to have the load valve, if fitted, under load.)
Regards Tony
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Master cylinders can suddenly develop internal leakage causing exactly your symptoms when other unrelated work is done.
The reason is either pressing in the caliper pistons to insert new pads, which sends old fluid back up into the MC, or else the act of enthusistic bleeding pushing the MC piston and seals down over an unused section of bore. If this is quite old then it can have dirt or surface rust which immediately wrecks the internal seals.
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okay i borrowed a elec operated pressure bleeder from a garage today, alot more air came out and its safe to drive now
although i feel it could be better
anyone had agro with a easybleed before?? this elec version done it in minutes
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I've never used eezibleed before, but maybe the fluid's being pushed too slowly through the pipes to apply adequate swirl which would drive out air from nucks and crannies in the calipers?
On that note I'll continue to use my sister/friend/parent as a pedal pumper.
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Mike Farrow
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i might look into one of those vacuum bleeders, cant be done with hassle over bleeding brakes
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If the electric bleeder was pressurising the fluid from the reservoir cap, then these are much better than easy bleeders, and vacuum bleeders.
The next time you break into the hydraulic circuit get a rod to keep the brake peddal depressed. This will then stop all the flid from running out, and will not damage the hoses. (As pipe clamps can do.) You will then find it much easyer to bleed the system after. it is vital however that you open the blled screw fully, before retracting the calliper pistons.
Regards Tony
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it is vital howeverthat you open the bleed screw fully, before retracting the calliper pistons.
Exactly. That's so that you don't pump old fluid back up into the Master cylinder.
Another tip is to plug the disconnected pipe straight away, eg with a tapered bit of wood. It is always worth bench-bleeding any new component first with a syringe. That way you can jiggle it so that all the air rises to the filler hole. Plug the pipe connection temporarily, eg with your finger, and reconnect but leave the connection a bit loose. Press the pedal gently, to let any air out at the connection, like bleeding a domestic radiator, and then tighten. With luck you never let any air in, so don't actually have to re-bleed at all.
I've done master cylinders, calipers and flexible hoses that way, and it avoids all the trouble with "difficult bleeders".
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If you want a much better way to seal off the end of a brake pipe, use a small peice of vacuum tubing, pushed over the pipe, and sealed, the other end with a PK screw. Much better than pushing shards of wood into the brake pipe.
But with the peddal down a 1/4, the fluid will not drain out anyway.
Regards Tony
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Steve,when you put new brakes on a Golf , you have to adjust the piston to a given dimension,it is all explained in an Haynes manual,HTH Burman
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Good point Tony. I'll do that next time. Thanks!
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The best plug for brake pipes is a plastic golf tee! I always keep a selection to hand, soft plastic, nice taper!
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pmh (was peter)
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