|
It may sound like a daft question, but is it possible to put a new gaiter on an outboard driveshaft joint WITHOUT dismatling the joint(s)? Current problem on the RHS driveshaft of a PUG205 1.8 diesel (88) but(same as GTI) this has an intermediate bearing between inner & outer joints. The manual shows a tool to expand/slide a boot up, but my feeling is you would not be able to stretch the small (driveshaft) end of the boot over the CV joint. I really did not want to dimantle the whole car just to replace the gaiter [joint ok, only just happened, not got water & grit inside...]
|
|
This may help. A quick search on Google for "CV boot" and stretch produced dozens of sites in the UK alone. Here is an example: www.bailcast.com/duracv.htm . I've never used one of these stretchable boots but others may be able to say if they are any good.
|
I think there has been a topic on this before.
I have in the past used a universal split boot which is then glued with a super glue, marketed by MOPROD I think. The key is to maintain absolute cleanliness and use the old boot as a cutting guide. It certainly lasted 2 years. The use of a pit (or lift)is essential to gain good clean access.
The trade do not seem to like them, but I cynically wonder if this is because it saves labour costs?
On a VW Polo I reckon that it is probably quicker to do the job properly, but this will vary from car to car.
pmh (was peter)
|
|
|
|
Well, in theory it is possible.
2 options:
1. Get a glue together boot and fix it without dismantling.
2. Get a stretchable one that goes over a spider-expander.
Both are NO GOOD at all IMHO. CV boots take awful stick with turning the steering wheel. Have a look at yours with the wheel at full lock. Then think that it's pretty full with Molybdenum Grease, which will try to escape.
To do the job properly should only take 30 mins, but it depends on whether you can undo the (32mm from memory) driveshaft nut. These are very tight and I often resort to bits of scaffolding tube on the spanner to undo.
Replace this nut with a new one, BTW. You really don't want it coming adrift.
|
I agree with Sean, the split type CV boots are a useless waste of money.
You may well find that the joint is not held together and comes apart once you have the hub separted from the wishbone. Then you face a three pronged bit with the rollers on, to get that off you need a set of good circlip pliers then the boot slides off.
If you have to get the hub nut off you have my sincere condolences. The are fine threaded with a bend over lip that is punched into a keyway. They are utter pigs to get off. If it is not in a recess I'd advise a nut splitter as a first line of attack not the last. I know the trade estimate under an hour for these, but they tend to have all the right tools handy.DIY often takes an afternoon.
Best off luck
|
|
|
|
|
My local garage uses 'stretchy' boots all the time, although I think they have a special tool (a sort of wire cage) for sliding them over the CV joint. Probably not essential, but I expect it helps! I think they get the boots through the usual channels, such Lucas and Partco.
|
Yes, JBJ, Sykes Pickavant make just such a tool, but for the life of me, I can't understand why anyone uses it.
I don't know of, but no doubt someone here will, a single make where the outer CV joint doesn't just knock off the driveshaft.
Since you have to remove the shaft from the hub, ie, take off the driveshaft nut, undo either upper or lower balljoint or dismantle Macpherson strut just to get at the end of the shaft, I don't see why you then wouldn't just knock the Cv joint off the shaft, reboot it, replace it and reassemble.
If there are cars with the CV outer joint fixed onto the shaft, then it's eminently sensible. You'd have to remove shaft from gearbox, fit boot from that end, then reinstall and fill gearbox.
Not easy now. Many 'boxes are filled for life.
|
I don't know about newer Peugeots, but older ones had a large part of the outer cv joint forged as part of the drive shaft. The small opening of the boot had to be forced over this large joint. The special tool is nothing but a 'taper' to help ease the half inch opening over the four inch or so joint.
Main dealers used to quote boot replacement prices which included the cost of two boots, as the first one often split during installation. I've fitted a few - and split a few, and suffered from aching fingers for hours afterwards.
|
Hi,
Can I suggest obtaining genuine replacement parts instead of after market parts. I find that after market CV boots do not last very long.
|
|
I agree with the view to replace with genuine part. I replaced one boot with a new split boot on my fiesta. It sounded fine in theory, but the circumferences were stepped and it was not possible to get a perfect match. Result was it got me through 1 MOT, but was leaking grease within a few weeks. I had it replaced under a fixed price at Ford dealer (can't remember the cost, but was reasonable) and has been ok for 6 years.
|
The whole crux of this post is that some cars (Peugeot/Citroen) have a CV joint which is non-removeable - entailing a rather involved stripdown of the entire driveshaft to replace the pesky boot. These stretch-boots are an absolute godsend, I'll tell ya!
|
"These stretch-boots are an absolute godsend"
Pretty much what I'd heard, David. Do you use the spider tool, or have your own method?
|
It's rather like a large cone - about the diameter of a CV joint itself....it makes life so much easier.
I was initially sceptical, but I'm now a convert!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
