Im seriously considering buying my wife a 216 si, 1997(R) auto in BRG with 38K, FSH from an independant dealer for £3,800. Tonight is the part where I test drive it and put my bartering skills to the test (with much rubbing of chins and sucking through teeth). Im after any pointers for this model/range on what to actually look for to avoid a headache later. The car seems unmarked, engine seems to run smoothly, everything works inside and comes with 3 months warranty. When is the cambelt/cat due for renewal? Its last service was at 36K, and no indication of a cambelt change in the service record book. Is the cambelt change diy-able, ie any special tools required?
Any help appreciated.
Andy
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if its the honda engine, i found the crankshaft pulley extremely tight, in fact only way to get it off was to put socket and breaker bar on, and blip the starter motor, to crack the bolt.
youll need to support engine, as you have to remove one of the engine mounts to fit timing belt.
the haynes manual, is accurate for the job.
no special tool reqd, just muscle.
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Hmmmm.....thanks for that, sixrock. Since my last post Ive searched the www and it seems that a tight pulley is common. Im hoping it was changed at the 36K service, but s**s law and all that.
Seems head gaskets are a major flaw in the 214, anyone know if this also applies to the 216, and will it be obvious if the head gaskets in a bad way?
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my rover has done 130k, and no head gasket probs, honda engines very well built. i changed my belt at 66k and 120k. so ill think youll find yours has not been done, have peek, take off top timing belt cover and look.
in fact i remember breaking two 17mm sockets, (cheap ones) and had to buy a "snap-on" socket, which did the trick. needless to say, i did not re-torque the bolt back up to the ridiculous figure in the book. just tight , three white knuckles,, with a blip of med strength loctite.
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My uncle's had a Rover 200 1.6 auto since new, about R or S reg. Head gasket went at 25 or 30000, dealer serviced from new etc. Think it is a Rover problem.
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The Mk 3 R200 did not use the Honda D16 engines, all petrol engines were the Rover K-series. I don't think the cambelt needs changing yet. Dave Lacey will be along any second now to tell you exactly when it does...
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The Mk 3 R200 did not use the Honda D16 engines, all petrol engines were the Rover K-series. I don't think the cambelt needs changing yet.
Rover recommend 50k or 5 years on the cambelt for the K series.
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I'd stay well away from a Rover with a K series engine, they're nothing but trouble. Why do you think Honda disassociated themselves with them? Probably because they weren't prepared to put their name to that level of unreliability. I saw one with a head gasket gone having done 96 miles once.
The Honda engine is different entirely. Apart from the odd ignition module failure these never give trouble. Unfortunately the latest you'll get is 'M' reg 1994/95.
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correct....ignition module failed @88k,
my biggest gripe is the alarm that decides to go off @ random, a real pain....never cured it.
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Headgasket failure is not that unusual on any of the Honda engines. In fact it can be much worse than that - the heads crack. There was a someone on here just a few weeks back with a Rover-badged Honda that had cracked the head - £1200 for a replacement.
Just ring the breakers yards and ask about s/hand Honda heads - they won't have any. Mind you, the K-series Rovers are much worse.
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Cheers KA!
The 1997 216 had a Rover K series engine - a good unit if looked after properly.
The cambelt is due at 60,000 miles or 5 years, whichever occurs first. I would have it changed ASAP. The crank pulley bolt on these engines is easy to undo compared to the Honda D16 engine. 22mm socket needed.
Also check the inlet manifold is secured onto the cylinder head by seven 13mm locknuts as opposed to 5 10mm headed bolts and two locknuts. Otherwise your manifold WILL leak and your head gasket will most probably fail.
Check around the tailgate hinges for corrosion....
Other than that, they're good cars.
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Headgasket failure is not that unusual on any of the Honda engines. In fact it can be much worse than that - the heads crack. There was a someone on here just a few weeks back with a Rover-badged Honda that had cracked the head - £1200 for a replacement. Just ring the breakers yards and ask about s/hand Honda heads - they won't have any. Mind you, the K-series Rovers are much worse.
To be fair, the Honda engine with the cracked head was the 2.3 not the 1.6, which is a different engine entirely. I've never seen a D16 with head/gasket problems, the only Honda engines I've seen with mayo under the oil filler cap are the 2.7 V6s. On the other hand, Honda four-pots do suffer worn camshafts at high mileages.
One of the problems with the K-series is, people don't realise they need looking after!
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This site is great, HJ.
Thanks for all the tips - some mixed opinions, and Im tempted to leave it rather than take the risk.
Took the car for a drive Saturday and it drives really well, but pulls to the left slightly when on a flat road and also when braking. The dealer is going to get it looked at. The car seems like excellent value compared to equivalents.
Regarding the head gasket, is it safe to assume that because the car runs well (no problems after a varied 20 minute drive) the heads ok? Oil and water looks clean, but both may have been recently changed in the "dealer service".
Andy
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Andy - Go for it, you'll be fine.
Will the vehicle have a half-decent warranty with it?
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Comes with 3 months dealer warranty, with the option to buy a 6/12/24 month extention from "Axa"(?). I think the 12 month policy was about £230. Dealer says its a good policy, covers "everything" (his quote) except wear and tear. Might be a good idea under the circumstances. This seems quite a fair price if it does cover everything. Anyone know of any cheaper/better policies I could take out myself, for comparison or backup?
Dislike paying extra for warranties, as I tend to try to service/replace myself, but might do this one for peace of mind. Will, of course check the small print for excess/ claim limits beforehand though.
Andy
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Everything except wear and tear? That wheel bearing falling off? Wear and tear, Sir.
Have a look at www.warrantydirect.co.uk - there's usually a link from the banner at the top, or possibly from the directories.
I've deliberately not made this link active so that HJ gets a click through.
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Ooops! should've seen that link. Just had a look and the cover is just as good and cheaper. Thanks
Andy
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Ah........I see you are after an auto - CVT model......just be wary, if the CVT box does play up it is usually big bucks....any warranty company is going to try and wriggle out of that!
Check the small print and abide by their rules or pay the price when it comes to the crunch!
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Oh and if it is the Honda engine and you want to change the belt remember that you cannot crack the pulley bolt loose with the starter as the Honda engine turns anti-clock and the bolt just gets tighter... OOOOPS!!
Andrew
Simplicate and add lightness!
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It definately will be a 1.6 litre K Series engined model if it is a CVT-Auto - the Honda engine was never used with the ZF CVT Box.
I used the 'socket & bar' technique to release an Isuzu crank pulley bolt last week - and very effective it was too! We used a spade to hold it clear of the radiator as someone else flicked the key. Bingo! Off it came...
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Ive just posted this reply but it seems to have disappeared into the ether. This is the re-write, so apologies if a duplicate turns up. (where do they go.....)
Dave Lacey; yes it is the CVT - takes a bit of getting used to. I will check the warranty small print to ensure smiles.
Bit apprehensive about using the engine as a torque provider but I am feeling inspired and will definately give it a go (probably). Must be a tense moment for the person holding the spade (the apprentice??).
Have changed a couple of cambelts before (cortina 1.6, bmw 525 (e34) and golf 1.8) which were simple and satisfying (saved a couple of hundred on the beemer but did my knees in as I shouldve removed the bonnet) but looks like my luck may have run out.
DO I also need to change the tensioner? Any special tools required for this?
Andy
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